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Joined: Feb 2009
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Lunker
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This isn't exactly pond related, but I'm sure someone here knows about this.
1 year ago we planted some 20' tall maple trees and some 10' tall oaks. They're staked up to prevent blowing over, and I've been watering them with 10 gallons of water each once per week over the summer, and occasionally over the winter if it's dry for a while.
Eventually I'd like them to be stand alone trees that take care of themselves without stakes or watering. When is it generally safe to take out the stakes and to stop watering them?
I'm in NE Oklahoma (zone 7) and live on a hill with few trees, so it gets very windy sometimes. Thanks!
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Joined: Feb 2005
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I would leave them there thru this year. Go around the base with a pointed ax handle or similar at or outside the drip zone. Punch a hole down about 2 ft. and every 3 ft. around the base. Pour a cup or 2 of regular cheap 13-13-13 in the hole and cover. The fert. will work it's way down, the roots will go after it and give you a good footing. Fill each hole up with water and let it seep out before filling in. I kind of wallow the hole out with the handle every few inches that it is driven so as to get it out easier and give more volume to take in water. I would fill the holes in with bank sand so any rain water can percolate down.
Last edited by burgermeister; 03/01/10 11:56 AM.
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Joined: May 2009
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These are big trees. I would ask a local nurseryman because root growth can take some time. Surface roots won't help that much in a wind, so shallow watering and fertilizing will slow things down. Unless your ground is very infertile, you should not fertilize unless you place it under the root ball. It could easily take three years for trees this size to get good deep-root growth, but again, it depends on your soil and conditions.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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I agree with Burger. Holes driven with an old transmission output shaft or rear drive axle is the way i do it. 4 inches from the root ball on newly planted and at the drip line for established. 1 lb triple 13 for each inch diameter of the hardwood tree in numerous holes around the tree. The roots wont grow into the fertilizer but will get as close as they need to to effect good growth. As the fertilizer dissipated the roots move in to that area. Newbie farmer and pondster, but learned this from my dad 45+ years ago and have had much success with it.
PondBoss magazine subscriber Don't text while driving!
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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I bought an old auger hand drill bit that was 1 1/2" dia or so and welded a 2' hex shaft to it. I used an electric drill to make holes around the trees like was described and filled the holes with Triple 12. The trees loved it.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Ack There are two schools of thought on tree planting. One, plant it water it in and leave it alone. This is the method that is used by several tree farmers I work with. Two, plant it stake it for one year water it in good and only water when the tree needs water. Texas A&M tree planting guidelines only call for staking a tree if needed but for no more than one year. As for watering you can stop now you are more likley to kill the tree by over watering than under watering. Texas A&M Guidlines http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/landscape/tree/planting.html
Asterperious
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Edit to say appreciate Chuck's post and advice. I agree that for general growing of trees for re-sale or establishing a quantity of trees, his is good advice. For growing specific speciman trees; best to give them more TLC. 10 gallons a week is hardly overwatering; especially when not much reaches the intended new root zone. I have planted a lot of trees that made it thru hurricanes and tropical storms with 20+ inches of rain. None have toppled yet. I know for a fact that deep root watering will cause a tree to far outshine a left alone tree. If you want to enjoy the tree instead of your grandkids, give it deep root watering. I planted some Bradford pears(pretty large) about 15 ft. I did the deep root watering for about 3 yrs. then backed off as they were growing too fast for where they were planted. A friend of mine had planted one and it did nothing for several years. I took over one of those deep root waterers that take the fert. tabs. and in a couple of years it was double size and much better condition. Most trees that are planted are in not ideal soil for them or else there would be trees there. Yes, if planted in fertile understory of decayed leaves, bark etc. then no need to water or fertilize maybe. Also if you have amended the soil such as for an orchard, maybe not needed. Generally speaking, dont leave it to nature or you will be disappointed.
Last edited by burgermeister; 03/02/10 12:06 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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Thanks for the advice everyone!
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Moderated by Bill Cody, Bruce Condello, catmandoo, Chris Steelman, Dave Davidson1, esshup, ewest, FireIsHot, Omaha, Sunil, teehjaeh57
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My First
by FishinRod - 05/04/24 11:48 PM
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