Forums36
Topics40,963
Posts557,997
Members18,504
|
Most Online3,612 Jan 10th, 2023
|
|
6 members (Fishingadventure, Boondoggle, Bigtrh24, Theo Gallus, FishinRod, teehjaeh57),
1,388
guests, and
278
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 58
Lunker
|
OP
Lunker
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 58 |
I made it home for a few weeks and am ecstatic to say that the new pond is doing wonderfully in all regards! The spillway from Agridrain is doing its job, and didn't freeze up despite the -20 temps MN had received this winter. I even found that there was a constant flow of water out of the pond and into my outflow, so I'm concluding that what I had thought was a broken drain tile is actually a spring which can now be more effectively directed into the pond. Happiness glows around Zimmerlannd in general, and Lake Tenacity in particular!
On to my question for all the experts and and experienced: I plan to plant a windbreak this spring, and will be using the pond for irrigation. I've got 220v installed at the pond. Here's the catch: one of the irrigation design guys mentioned that using a submersible 220v pump violates code because of the possibility of electricity making it into the water. I'd like to stick with a submersible pump, as I'm told that most pump failures are caused by losing prime and subsequent burnout. HOWEVER! I don't want to unintentionally electrofish every time I fire up the irrigation...
Has anybody had any experience (pro or con) with a situation like this?
Thanks a bunch for any input Corey
CZ
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282
Lunker
|
Lunker
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282 |
You could use a 110 pump (or two) if that will do the job.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 58
Lunker
|
OP
Lunker
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 58 |
Thanks RAH. I neglected to mention that I need a whole bunch of pressure and flow because I plan on irrigating the yard with the same pump in a couple of years. So...the irrigation design guys tell me that 220 is the way to go.
CZ
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282
Lunker
|
Lunker
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282 |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 58
Lunker
|
OP
Lunker
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 58 |
I like it, and I'll definitely bring it up to my guy. Using a non-submersible apparently triples my cost though
CZ
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282
Lunker
|
Lunker
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,722 Likes: 282 |
I have really not heard much about submersible pumps in ponds for irrigation, but maybe this is something new?
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 77
Lunker
|
Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 77 |
I set one of these systems up many years ago for a large estate. I used a close coupled, end suction pump with flow and pressure switches for protection. Built a pump house to keep the pump and sprinkler controls out of the weather.
I would think you could use a submersible with GFCI protection. Is the designer sure of the code interpretation?
When you say "whole bunch of pressure and flow" does anyone have an idea how much? I worked pretty close with the irrigation designer in order to select an efficient pump for the system.
Life’s mostly scars and souvenirs
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 58
Lunker
|
OP
Lunker
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 58 |
GFCI - now why didn't I think of that? Problem solved! I'll ask an electrician about it too in case he has any ideas.
Although I started out with a end suction pump in mind, I'm leaning heavily toward the submersible now. Cost, noise and appearance all come into play in my situation.
The figures that I've been working with are roughly 50 psi at the head and 35 gpm with 15 feet of lift. That puts me in the 2HP range for pumps.
CZ
|
|
|
Moderated by Bill Cody, Bruce Condello, catmandoo, Chris Steelman, Dave Davidson1, esshup, ewest, FireIsHot, Omaha, Sunil, teehjaeh57
|
|