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Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
#171679 07/05/09 06:10 PM
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Just thought I would post my results using Sonar One to control Hydrilla. After I got up off of the floor and restarted my heart from the price shock, the preliminary results are in. The Sonar One worked like a charm . Ten days after the application the Hydrilla looks like a wasteland. The big question, to be determined, is how long the control will last. IF,and this is a big if, it provides the control that Sepro states, it will be by far the best money I have spent to date.

Ron

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Gates #171873 07/06/09 04:18 PM
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Gates,

Keep us posted. If I can scrape together the money I may try it next year for Sago Pondweed. Any ideas if using a dye in conjunction with it will effect it's effectiveness?


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Cecil Baird1 #172074 07/07/09 08:35 AM
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The use of pond dye with a Sonar treatment will extend the life of the chemical since sun light degrades all chemicals.

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
RileyS #172295 07/07/09 11:35 PM
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I know of someone that used Sonar in front of their house to treat Eurasian Water Milfoil. The one application worked for 3 years before it started encroaching in that area. (no, that someone isn't anyone related to me)


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Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
esshup #181290 08/31/09 08:44 PM
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Here is a two month update on the Sonar One treatment. The hydrilla is non-existent in the pond. The Sonar did not seem to bother any of the shoreline trees. Some of the trees are directly on the edge of and the willows are in the pond, therefor obviously drinking from the pond. Very few of the shoreline grasses had some discoloration. Overall I am very happy with the results so far. I just hope the control will last!

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Gates #181343 08/31/09 11:14 PM
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 Originally Posted By: Gates
Here is a two month update on the Sonar One treatment. The hydrilla is non-existent in the pond. The Sonar did not seem to bother any of the shoreline trees. Some of the trees are directly on the edge of and the willows are in the pond, therefor obviously drinking from the pond. Very few of the shoreline grasses had some discoloration. Overall I am very happy with the results so far. I just hope the control will last!


Good for you. Seems worth the expense when you consider other chemicals you may have to apply over and over again! I'm definitely going to apply it next year. I wish it was effective against Chara though. \:\(

How did you apply it? Do you have to spray it around the pond or will it spread by natural diffusion?


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Cecil Baird1 #181443 09/01/09 11:18 AM
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Cecil:

As much water flow that you have going thru your trout pond, would copper sulfate work, or would it be detrimental to the trout? I know it works on Chara in ponds & lakes, but it must be applied before the Chara gets established (applied before it gets 4"-6" long) or it isn't as effective.


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Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
esshup #181772 09/02/09 09:13 PM
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Cecil,
There are 5 different pelleted versions with different release options. I used (Sonar One) from the professional applicator side of Sepro. It was very easy to apply. I used a hand held, the kind that wraps around your arm, grass seeder. It worked perfect. I choose the pellets because of my pond situation. The pond is spring feed at a 10gpm flow. My thought about the pellets were as follows:

1.)They allowed exact placement for the more intense areas.
2.)They put the chemical where it needed to be
3.)The type I choose released the chemical in stages. It was like a time delay release. For example 33% would release in day one, another 33% at day 4, and the final 33% at day 7. The %'s are just for example, but you get the idea. This was a concern do to the flow of my pond and the possibility of a rain purging the chemical.
4. With pellets I could go back and hit the remaining areas very easily with out having to treat the whole pond.

The active ingredient (Fluridone) will disperse through out the pond on its own. I basically stayed away fro my outfall figuring it would migrate that way through the water and indeed it did exactly that.

The restrictions on Sonar are extremely minimal and Sonar is very friendly to the environment and to humans. The whole concept is pretty simple, it blocks photosynthesis in the plant.

If you decide to go with it I will be more then happy to provide you with a contact person at Sepro that was extremely helpful. I guess for the kind of money they get for this stuff they ought to send a guy out with it.


Esshup,
My label specifically states that it will not control Chara.

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
esshup #181775 09/02/09 09:19 PM
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 Originally Posted By: esshup
Cecil:

As much water flow that you have going thru your trout pond, would copper sulfate work, or would it be detrimental to the trout? I know it works on Chara in ponds & lakes, but it must be applied before the Chara gets established (applied before it gets 4"-6" long) or it isn't as effective.


Scott,

I don't apply any chemicals to my trout pond. To risky as trout are very sensitive especially to copper. The sonar will go into the big pond in the front that no longer has any flow going through it.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Gates #181777 09/02/09 09:23 PM
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 Originally Posted By: Gates
Cecil,
There are 5 different pelleted versions with different release options. I used (Sonar One) from the professional applicator side of Sepro. It was very easy to apply. I used a hand held, the kind that wraps around your arm, grass seeder. It worked perfect. I choose the pellets because of my pond situation. The pond is spring feed at a 10gpm flow. My thought about the pellets were as follows:

1.)They allowed exact placement for the more intense areas.
2.)They put the chemical where it needed to be
3.)The type I choose released the chemical in stages. It was like a time delay release. For example 33% would release in day one, another 33% at day 4, and the final 33% at day 7. The %'s are just for example, but you get the idea. This was a concern do to the flow of my pond and the possibility of a rain purging the chemical.
4. With pellets I could go back and hit the remaining areas very easily with out having to treat the whole pond.

The active ingredient (Fluridone) will disperse through out the pond on its own. I basically stayed away fro my outfall figuring it would migrate that way through the water and indeed it did exactly that.

The restrictions on Sonar are extremely minimal and Sonar is very friendly to the environment and to humans. The whole concept is pretty simple, it blocks photosynthesis in the plant.

If you decide to go with it I will be more then happy to provide you with a contact person at Sepro that was extremely helpful. I guess for the kind of money they get for this stuff they ought to send a guy out with it.


Esshup,
My label specifically states that it will not control Chara.


Thanks for the info Gates. I'm probably going with the same product under a different name Whitecap. Yes I was aware it didn't control Chara. I will try and keep the Chara at bay with Aquashade. I'm curious to see what I've got this winter when I do some peering under the ice as I've been using Aquashade in the biggest non flow through pond. The Aquashade should have broken down considerably by winter so I should be able to see the bottom as the water is normally gin clear when not using a dye.

Last edited by Cecil Baird1; 09/02/09 09:26 PM.

If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Cecil Baird1 #181779 09/02/09 09:27 PM
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Cecil:

The pond in front is the one that has the Sago problem, right? The Chara is limited to the back one?


www.hoosierpondpros.com


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Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
esshup #181783 09/02/09 09:33 PM
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 Originally Posted By: esshup
Cecil:

The pond in front is the one that has the Sago problem, right? The Chara is limited to the back one?


Correct. I used to have some Small pondweed ( Potomogeton pussilis) in the trout pond but don't see it anymore.

I may also get some grass carp and put them in the front pond. I can always shoot at them if they come at feeding time. Or catch and release them like George says.


If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.






Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Cecil Baird1 #181886 09/03/09 03:02 PM
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If you put in the grass carp and they get outta hand & you want them removed I bowfish for carp in the Spring, so it'd be an easy control method.


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Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
esshup #186148 10/04/09 01:30 PM
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Hi guys, just wondering, I am from South Africa and I just wanted to get a rough idea on how much sonar one or aquathol will cost. As i have a huge problem with hydrilla in my dam. thanks

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Dylan #194275 12/04/09 05:16 PM
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I used Whitecap for a very bad case of watermeal in my 1 acre pond two years ago. It cost approx. $600 for a quarts worth. This was a liquid (looked like milk) and was applied in 4 spots, 8 oz per. Bye, bye watermeal!!!!! Great product!

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Dylan #196090 12/20/09 01:08 PM
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 Originally Posted By: Dylan
Hi guys, just wondering, I am from South Africa and I just wanted to get a rough idea on how much sonar one or aquathol will cost. As i have a huge problem with hydrilla in my dam. thanks


Dylan - beware that fluridone (the active-ingredient in Sonar, Avast & Whitecap - all are priced differently) is seldomly used for spot-treatments. The entire body of water must typically be treated to achieve a lethal parts-per-billion (ppb) concentration for an extended period of time (45-90 days). Even Aquathol usually requires 48+ hrs of contact-time at a lethal concentration to achieve decent results. So, be sure you know how either product fit your scenario before investing any bucks.

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Kelly Duffie #196409 12/23/09 01:08 PM
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Dylan-What size water body you are looking to treat with the Sonar? Also, does the pond flow much? Treatment would be best done in the spring as long as incoming water flow rates are reasonably low.

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Beasley #196414 12/23/09 02:04 PM
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Just for clarification, Dylan is currently enjoying mid-summer (as in South Africa). ;\)

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Kelly Duffie #196499 12/24/09 11:54 AM
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That makes sense, how many more months are left in the growing season?

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Beasley #196896 12/29/09 07:10 AM
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Welcome to the forum Beasley!

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Rainman #198029 01/06/10 10:15 AM
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Thanks, I have been meaning to join for a long time.

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Beasley #225708 07/10/10 10:55 AM
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Here is my 1 year update on the Sonar vs. Hydrilla. The Hydrilla and Southern Naaid has returned. The amount of plants have been drastically reduced to an estimated 15% coverage. The biologist at Sepro informed me that Hydrilla spreads by fragmentation and by tubers(seed) created on the roots of the plants. The idea is to kill the plant early before it has a chance to grow the tubers on its roots.
The general consensus is that the Hydrilla plants that showed up this year came from the tubers of the plants that were eradicated last year. Therefore it may take a couple of correctly timed applications to bring it under control. In summation, if you are selling Sonar this is a good thing, if you are my wallet this is a bad thing!!!cry

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Gates #225724 07/10/10 01:46 PM
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It nice of folks at SePro to tell you what went wrong so you could buy some more. It's a timed product no doubt, on certain applications. And yes, those nasty hydrilla tubers can sit there dormant in mud for years, hiding from the Fluridone. My best time is right when it starts to emerge from those tubers, when they are weakest. And you really cannot spot treat very well, as it must get to the desired ppm in the entire body of water and sit there for 45-90 days to do what it is supposed to do. It does close to nothing to Willows. I cut cut them down to the ground and paint stumps with Tri. As far as Chara, you almost have to copper it.

Well off to mow coontail, cattails and bulrushes. The kind folks at Jenson Lake Mower gave me a four flat shaft to test. I have a few ongoing contracts so mow and test sounds good for a Saturday to me. Drag all the boys along for some pond fun, blackberry picking, and fishing afterwards. Last soiree before they head back to school. Thanks for the Sonar writeup.

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
The Pond Frog #225774 07/10/10 10:00 PM
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What would you have preferred the SePro guy to have said?

Re: Sonar One vs. Hydrilla
Habitatpro #225803 07/11/10 12:39 AM
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Our products cost way too much.

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