Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Help tractor advice

Hey Greg, JD mowers aren't all that great.

Yes please.

When looking for a tractor and attachments a couple of years ago I found that anything with green paint (JD) pushed the price up. I wound up with an orange tractor and backhoe (Kubota), red mower (Bush Hog) and yellow post hole digger (Land Pride). Each was every bit as good, if not better, than JD.

Hmmm... this could turn into a Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge truck thing! Greg, what I tried to say was that the "off brand" implements & tractors are made with lesser materials. If the equipment is going to be used sparingly, then they will suffice and the lesser costs may pay dividends. I've owned every major brand of tractor and believe they are all good. JD is higher in cost. The trade in factor is higher for them, so it may balance out. IMHO, the parts support for JD is the best in the business.










I also farm as a part-time business and have found over the last 29 years that quality materials hold up well to daily use. Like I said, the other major brands are just fine, but would stay away from the "cheapo" stuff....du

You must bleed green & yellow, david.

Oh, and I have a Toyota Tundra too.

Impressive DU!

Sorry RobA, no slight intended...

I honestly don't believe there is a whole lot of difference in quality between the bigger names in tractors.

More importantly, you should focus on buying a brand that has a strong dealer network in your area. Being able to get parts and/or service the same or next day when you are in the middle of a major project is EXTREMELY important.

Theo is right about those arms, here's a pic of my Woods Brushbull 60. The thing will chew through a 3" oak tree, but those arms take a beating with the irregular ground around my pond. I broke one this summer. Part of the problem was I had it connected to a quick hitch. I've since learned that's not a good idea because the arms wind up flexing in and out instead of the top link pivoting. Chains solve that problem.



The plotmaster also did a great job on establishing my CRP. I rented it from the local soil & water conservation dept for $25 and used it all day then planted a food plot.

Before you buy a tractor go on Tractorbynet.com and read, read, read. I learned a lot of stuff to avoid on that site when I bought mine. I think the folks on that site literally saved me several thousand dollars and helped avoid me getting something that wouldn't do the job for me.

Consider a tiller instead of a disc. I find that for food plots it creates a much nicer bed than a disc. It is slower to till than disc but the results save time later. I've found that an inexpensive way to do food plots is to use a tiller to prepare, a broadcast spreader to fertilize and seed, and a drag harrow to cover the seeds. Yes, this equipment may not do as good a job as if you had a grain drill but you will need a broadcast spreader anyway and a drag harrow is a lot cheaper than a grain drill or row seeder. I broadcast spread everything I plant from clover to corn. For small plots .5 acre or less I might just sow by hand or for clover seed I use one of the hand held crank spreaders. Probably only takes 20 minutes. It works fine, you don't need to plant anything in rows. You just need to figure out how to spread the right amount of seed per acre. I built a sprayer from parts I bought from Northern tool that I use to apply chemicals when needed.

Your right on there bz, I've got a Caroni 1400 and it does the trick. I move slower, but I don't have to take multiple passes with different equipment. I used the plotmaster because I had to plant 5.5 acres. When I did my 1 acre food plot later in the year, I used the tiller, push behind broadcaster with seeds then fertilizer, then drug a tree top around to get the seeds to germinate.

Greg, I didn't read where anybody mentioned this, but I always lower any implement all the way to the ground when I shut my tractors down, including front end loader. Kids will push any and all levers when on the non-running tractor and can make hydraulic equipment go down. Just a thought.
cody

Good practice, cody. I was taught to do that to relieve the stress on hydraulic lines; you have a better reason.

cody thanks

cs smith and Theo.. those are both good reasons to do the same thing Good Advice!!...du

Another idea is to lower them slowly and gently. I busted a seeder gear housing by dropping it too rapidly.

Lots of great info here guys, all I can add is i Use a Kubota 2550, 29HP, Diesel, 4x4 with a FEL. I love it bought it for a good deal with high hrs on it and noticed some clutch slipping so I replaced that ( had a friend do it for $800) now it will spin all four tires playing tug o war with mature oak trees.... I use a 5ft bush hog on our horse pastures with no problem. Last tidbit is if you get a newer tractor with a front end loader, be sure to get one with a quick disconect, takes 5 minutes to hook up or remove the loader which is nice for mowing, bushhogging around trees, that loader always seems to reach out and snag trees when I go by them....;^)
Mor eloader advice, if you want to dig vs move dirt, then get the bucket with digging spurs on it. Around the farm type of use, be sure to get a buket with chain hooks inside the top of the bucket or get one welded to it so you can use a chain to lift things, very handy.
Tractor on baby!!
Salmonid