I am still planning my ponds in south-central Kansas. I would like a small pond (0.5 - 1 acres) for channel catfish. The goal is to have a catching and eating pond always available when there are no other gamefish scheduled for significant culling in the other ponds.

A lot of the literature suggests that a CC monoculture pond is the easiest to manage. The simplest management strategy is pellet feeding and no structure for spawning (since CC-only ponds can get quickly overpopulated after good spawns.)

I would like to add RES for some parasite intervention. However, I have not seen this as a common recommendation for CC ponds.

Question: Since RES and CC both like to forage along the bottom, will the larger adult CC consume all of the RES in a short time period?

I would also like to add some structure to the pond to concentrate the CC for hook & line angling. Even though I would not be adding their "preferred" type of spawning structure, there is still a lot of pressure on the fish to spawn if it is at all possible. (Or I could deliberately add a few spawning culverts to try and create a self-sustaining CC pond.)

The articles I have read about spawning CC ponds usually mention LMB as the predator to keep the CC numbers in check. They suggest that the LMB are quite efficient at hoovering up almost all of the CC fry. However, I am worried that as the LMB get larger, they would then also be consuming the 7-10" catfish that are most efficient at converting pellet feed to body mass.

Question: What about adding a predator with a smaller mouth gape such as HSB?

I could absolutely control the number of predators since the HSB don't reproduce. Would they be just as good as LMB at eating up the small fry, BUT better at leaving the fingerlings due to the smaller mouth gape?

If so, would the HSB prefer to eat the feed pellets, or would they still prey on the CC fry when they are available?

Finally, if the HSB are not keeping the CC numbers in check, would adding a few single-sex LMB be a good idea at that point to get the pond back in balance?

Thanks for the help,
FishinRod

If your goal is to just have a Catfish pond as a reliable, on demand food source, then I don't think other species are necessarily required if you're going to stay on top of the pelleted feeding. I don't think adding a few RES will hurt if you're worried about parasites/snails, and they don't tend to overpopulate like other species of sunfish. You could always try to get RES of all one sex, if you're worried about them breeding and taking over. Larger CC will definitely feed on baby RES, and you probably wouldn't need but a few RES in a small pond to handle the snail duties.

HSB would be a great addition, for both food and sport, and would also eat any YoY CC or RES that may end up in there. My ultimate goal, similar to yours, is a Blue Cat and HSB pond (someday).

If no spawning structure is present, you shouldn't have any CC reproduction at all.

If you can get the RES established with a good head start in size, I think you could have RES for several years before the CC get, say, 5 pounds and start eating the larger RES. The RES could also add to the forage base for the CC. I have no real experience here...just my 2¢.

I think HSB would be a good choice for CC YOY control. My HSB cleaned up the FHM in the pond in a matter of two years. They did not, however, do a lot of surface pellet eating. So little that I could not tell if they were going after pellets or going after FHM's pushing the pellets around. After year #2 with barely a minnow left, the HSB seem to stop hitting the surface as much at feeding time, but you could see the flash of their bodies about 18" down...maybe pellet eating, maybe eating HBG YOY, or both...IDK. If you do put in HSB, you will want to use heavier line (like CC) to get them in. They are a freight train on the line.

Adding single sex LMB will always be an option. You'll just have to wait and see. The hardest part that I have found about pond management is being confident with any sort of population estimate. So often I wished I had a pond void of fish just above this one so I could drain the stocked pond, count the fish, and then fill it back up. Probably would not be a good idea in reality, but curiosity is killing this cat!

Steve, thanks for help.

(Did you ever find a viable source for your blue catfish stock?)

Nah, nothing on the east coast. Only suppliers I found are in TX and MO I believe. Too far for me. I'm going to be attempting some aquaculture of my own, and see what happens. I've already ordered the spawn-inducing hormone, and I have all the "supplies" I need sitting in my Amazon cart, waiting to pull the trigger.

I've watched probably every Youtube video available on how to do this, and read every document I could find. Should be interesting, that's for sure.

I second (third?) the suggestions above. RES will not overpopulate, so no worries there. HSB are a great addition since they won't reproduce, will help with predation of YOY CC, and a fun once in a while catch. Typically take to feed as well. Be prepared to spend a LOT on pellets, if that's going to be their primary, or really only, food source. I love reading about species specific ponds like this.

Noel,

My experience with pellet feeding of HSB was based on snrub showing his results.

(See his "Building new forage mini pond" thread, specifically the 11/29/20 post for anyone wanting more info.)

After they slaughtered the FHM forage he provided for them, the HSB then grew very rapidly on both Aquamax and Optimal. I assumed (wrongly) that his example of pellet consuming behavior was typical. I later re-read his thread and he states that his HSB were fed Cargill starter at the hatchery.

I did not realized that purchasing pellet-trained stocking fish was almost a separate category of fish!

I think you and Steve's advice about using HSB as a CC fry predator could really create a nicely balanced fishery. I think untrained HSB would be the stocker of choice.

I may try some very limited spawning habitat. Would the fastest growing CC be the ones that "win" the spawning rights? If so, then I would be naturally selecting for the CC that would be preferred for the pond's goals.

Catfish spawning habitat is usually set in pretty shallow water. If I get too much reproduction, then I can always pull the habitat. Heck, I could even try alternate year installation of the spawning habitat. That might act like "ladder stocking" the pond. (I probably should NOT use concrete culvert pipe if I am going to try that option!)

From what I gather, the larger CC spawn first, as they all don't spawn at the same time. If you created one piece of spawning structure, it could get used by multiple pairs during the same season. Catfish farms that use the pond-spawning method usually have 1 spawning container for every 2-4 breeding pairs. See? All that Youtube research has paid off! Lol...

Omaha,

Some of the literature I read said that CC are some of the most efficient fish at converting pellet feed to body mass.

As you point out, the feed will be either their primary or only source of food. If I am creating more CC fillets than my family can eat, what happens to the CC when I start cutting back on their pellet feed rate? Do CC just slow down their metabolism and growth rate?

I have never closely considered this question before. Instead of starving, is the response of fish just to become stunted as a response to a significant decrease in a previously abundant food source?

Your comment really makes me want to add the RES. If the CC have less pellet protein available, will they start consuming the small RES? That will definitely cost them some energy to consume their meal.

Finally, I believe larger CC eat their fry and fingerlings. Is that a significant part of their diet? (Like it is for LMB.)

Steve said,

"From what I gather, the larger CC spawn first, as they all don't spawn at the same time. If you created one piece of spawning structure, it could get used by multiple pairs during the same season. Catfish farms that use the pond-spawning method usually have 1 spawning container for every 2-4 breeding pairs. See? All that Youtube research has paid off! Lol..."

I did not even consider that possibility. Good point!

If you manage to perfect your blue catfish hormonal treatment breeding program, you will probably qualify as a "catfish sex therapist".

Do you think you can find some catfish to pay you $150/hour to help them with their sex lives? That would definitely help supplement your pond management budget!

Lol, I'm sure I can find some humans that I can charge $150/hr to help their catfish with their sex lives. Can't promise it'll work though

And if we wait long enough, I'm sure some "woke" person somewhere will find it offensive to force fish to breed, and make a law that bans it. Did I just say that last part out loud?

In case you don't have it ... check out this.

https://wkrec.ca.uky.edu/files/smallscalehomeuse.pdf

"Did I just say that last part out loud?"

If you start taking heat, I am sure someone on the forum can photoshop a COVID mask onto your profile pic to hide your true identity!

Thanks jpsdad, I will ad that one to my "Catfish" folder.

From the link:

"They are looking for additional farm enterprises that can be conducted with minimal inputs, that is, a 5-gallon bucket and a pickup truck."

They have pretty well described my current assets for the project!

I have read several similar reports on the ease of CC production from the agencies of numerous other states in the region. They all make it sound as easy as falling out of bed at night.

Surely I can handle that level of difficulty with the help of the people on Pond Boss!

The part they don't talk about is what happens when a fungus gets started from packing the numbers, then spending the next year drying and sterilizing everything.

Yes, I figured those types of reports sometimes leave out the "hard" parts.

Snrub had good reproductive success on his RES before they had to contend with a significant predator. What do you think about putting RES in the CC pond and giving them a head start?

Also, the RES are effective in breaking the life cycle of some of our common fish parasites. If fungus is a potential problem in catfish ponds, would RES help in mitigating that problem?

Would some of our other forage fish (like shiners) help with fungus?

I don't think adding the RES would be a detriment. I am completely unsure about using HSB to control the CC offspring because they inhabit completely different areas of the pond water column.

If it were my pond project, I'd restrict the CC spawning to 0 if possible.

Fungus issues are a water quality/fish health issue. Keep the fish healthy and the water quality good and fungus shouldn't be a problem.

If you cut back on the feeding, expect the water to get muddy as the CC start going through the bottom sediment for something to eat.

"If it were my pond project, I'd restrict the CC spawning to 0 if possible."

That is the predominant advice in the literature from the state agencies.

It is also a pretty "idiot-proof" starting point for me. If the pond is working well, without spawning - great. If I want to try some spawning later (instead of re-stocking), then it is easy to add catfish spawning habitat to an existing pond.

"Fungus issues are a water quality/fish health issue. Keep the fish healthy and the water quality good and fungus shouldn't be a problem."

I have read several of the threads about parasites in ponds. Fungus issues were a new one on me. I will have a live creek available for a water supply. I assume some water exchange for the pond is the easiest way to maintain water quality? I am planning to install a bottom drain, so I can pull water off the bottom of the pond as needed.

"If you cut back on the feeding, expect the water to get muddy as the CC start going through the bottom sediment for something to eat."

That is why I believe a separate CC pond is the best solution for our land, let them treat their "own" pond the way they like it!

Thanks,
Rod

Rod, "it depends" on the quality of the creek water too........

Another thread on Pond Boss encounters the "it depends" monster!

I think the "quality" of my creek water is relatively high, but I didn't think to ask what constitutes poor water quality that you would typically find in a CC pond.

What is the most likely water issue in the pond that would lead to fungus in the CC pond? What are the most likely water quality issues that are NOT related to fungus?

(My CC pond will have an almost 100% clay bottom. I assume one issue may be suspended clay and water turbidity when that catfish are working the bottom.)

Once I have determined the water "needs" of the CC pond, then I can evaluate how well the creek water can meet these needs.

The creek runs very clear and has a sandy bottom in most places. I am going to take water samples for chemical analysis throughout the year to determine if there are any "unseen" issues - BEFORE I spend money to break ground on ponds.

What are the essential items I need to ensure are included in the water chemical analysis?

There are also a lot of row crops in the watershed above my stretch of the creek. I may have excess fertilizer in the creek water at some portion of the year. It might be important NOT to add water to the CC pond during those periods. However, it could actually be beneficial water when it is time to fertilize some of the other ponds.

Water quality issues are low dissolved O2, high ammonia levels, nigh nitrite levels; high copper levels will kill them. Anything that stresses the fish will lower their immune system and allow the fungus that is naturally in all the waters to start attacking their body.

While this doesn't apply to fungus, certain planktonic algae species will build up in the catfish flesh and give them an "off" flavor.

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jwas.12672

You may want to make sure that either Pak 27 or Phycomicin is available at your local pond chemical supplier. That is used to treat algae in catfish ponds.

If you pump water from the creek, you have to filter it through a 64 micron filter cloth to eliminate pumping fish larvae or fertilized fish eggs into your pond from the stream. They WILL survive going through a pump.....

Just like feeding pet food, feed a good high quality fish food because more of the food will be converted to fish flesh and less will pass through the fish to foul the water. It's actually cheaper to feed Optimal Fish Food to the fish than a cheap locally sourced fish food if you calculate the amount of fish food needed to put on a pound of fish flesh.

The link in esshup's post is a published scientific study on Off-Flavors in Pond-Grown Catfish. It looks like an excellent article to read if you sometimes have a problem with off-flavor catfish in your ponds!

Thanks for clarifying the creek water quality issues to be covered in my testing.

I have previously posted a question on PB about fish and vegetation contamination from the creek water supply. I received many good suggestions

Your comment about some algae types ruining the flavor of the catfish is very intriguing! If the whole point of the pond is to catch and eat CC, then that is a key issue to consider.

I have not seen any literature proposing adding tilapia to a CC pond. (Our pond will be cold enough every year to winter kill the tilapia.)

Would adding tilapia be a good recommendation for making the catfish taste better?

Thanks,
Rod

If have algae that make for an off taste in CC, tilapia might help. Whenever I stock them, algae goes down the hatch very quickly. Voracious! Besides, they are good eating themselves, converting useless biomass into something worthwhile.

Yes they will help. In fact, the catfish will outcompete them for feed and they will feed on the secondary effects of feed on the food web. The catfish will have almost identical food conversion but there will be an additional crop of TP with no additional feed inputs. The water quality will be much better too. This is factual and has been known long time ... From Swingle below:

FishingRod,

Given your interest, take also a look at this ...

https://www.researchgate.net/public...ve_Feeding_and_Growth_of_Channel_Catfish

I designed a spreadsheet feeding schedule based on these equations and shared it in post of one of John Fitzgerald's threads. You can design your own of course ... if that one doesn't meet the need.

They type of algae that causes the off flavor is usually planktonic, not filamentous, so I am not sure if the Tilapia will or will not control it, or if the Tilapia will be "off flavor" too. That's where the non-copper based algaecide comes into play.

With all of the good advice you guys have given me, these catfish are going to think they are living in a fancy resort, rather than an old mudhole in Kansas!

It appears that the consensus is to try adding the tilapia to the CC pond.

I will also have to work on taste-testing both types of fish. (We have finally found a pond management task that matches my skill set!)

If the catfish muddy the pond and reduce the light penetration, will that serve to somewhat inhibit the growth of planktonic algae?

This leads to an even broader question. Are there any circumstances where a pond with high turbidity due to suspended clay particles is actually advantageous to the fish management goals?

Yes the clay turbidity will inhibit the growth of planktonic and filamentous algae.

Other than reducing light penetration into the water, I think there are more disadvantages than advantages to the clay turbidity. Too much and you have respiratory issues, it's harder to find food, O2 levels will need to be monitored due to reduced phytoplankton (it's a fine line between too much and too little phytoplankton when it comes to O2 production). There may be more but it's getting late and I'm slowing down. LOL

Thanks for all of the help, esshup.

If you keep posting more answers, then I will keep posting more questions! (The more I know, the more I realize that I DON'T know.)

When I am causing sleep deprivation it is probably time to rein it in a little.

I did think the negatives due to clay turbidity would almost certainly outweigh the positives. However, I wanted to pose the question just to get a better handle on the relevant factors for our ponds.

Just to add my 2 cents. I did not notice anyone mention that CC will make their own spawning place. I have a half acre 100% clay pond. I was told they would not spawn, however they did, they made a hole in the side of the pond to spawn,\ that was one surprise, the other is no one mentioned that it does not take long for them to grow to a large size! After about three years we were catching 10-12 pound, 20-28 inch CC. At that point they become the top predator and have a mouth that can eat anything in my pond, I feed them! I have LMB, BG and GSH, feeding Aqua-Max MVP keeps everyone happy and the CC do not eat everything in the pond. Big CC are fun to catch and even better eating! Just a few thoughts to share I did not see in the conversation, hope this info helps.

Most of the research I have read is that specific types of planktonic algae are most vulnerable to TP. One of the effects of TP is that they change the mix and proportion of populations (much like cattle will do in a pasture). The algae most vulnerable to TP are blue-green bacteria algae and their presence will cause other types of algae to be in higher abundance and dominantly present. When crop contents are examined, the tendency is that primary planktonic algae present is of the blue-green varieties. References I have read suggest or claim that it is the reduction of these types of planktonic algae that reduce off-flavor in catfish.

It may not be the consumption of the of these algae that causes off-flavor ... rather ... it may be related to their abundance. The catfish, for example, aren't eating them so why are they off flavor? One possible explanation is that blue-green algae introduce chemical aromatics to the water column that find their weight into the flesh of fish. Another possibility ... may be because the blue-green algae are not preferred by most pond organisms and/or because those that do prefer them are scarce due to fish density ... which leads to most blue-green dying of old-age. In such a possibility .. decay of these individuals release aromatics to the water. In cases where the blue-green algae are under cropped by predators, there is just a lot more of them in the water.

If one inhibits planktonic algae by algaecide, some water quality parameters will suffer. Also FCR will suffer because one will lose primary production that thrives in the feed wastes. There is such thing as too much bloom but the best solution would be its consumption. TP are good consumers but they will not prevent the bloom of other varieties of planktonic algae. Inoculation of other consumers may hold promise and this kind of solution would also increase yield.


That's great point and I have to wonder when or if fingerling producers will introduce female lines or sterilized fish for recreational use. Triploidy which is induced by pressure shocking through the first meiotic division generally eliminates reproduction and increases rate of growth. TP can be sterilized by temperature alone and perhaps we will discover so can catfish. Fish that don't engage in reproductive activity and the production of gametes grow a lot faster as this energy is directed into growth.

I once heard(Lusk), and it is my observation, that channel cats seldom pull off a successful spawn. They spawn later than other fish, go everywhere in a school, and are easily picked off by everything else.

To be sure ... but this doesn't prevent the large males from creating cavities and such. If this this behavior can be prevented or eliminated ... it might be desired by some folks.

Thanks for all of the comments regarding the CC spawning.

The articles I read indicated that if CC do spawn, then they are very prone to stunting in a pond that lacks non-CC predators. "A single female catfish can spawn 2,000 to 50,000 young." That is the reason I asked the question about a few HSB or single-sex LMB in the pond.

I had also decided on zero "intentional" spawning habitat. However, Funky reports from his own pond experience that they did spawn - apparently by creating their own spawning holes in the clay banks.

Dave, then posts that in his own experience, PLUS Lusk's experience, that "CC seldom pull off a successful spawn".

I read "successful spawn" as an ambiguous term.

It could mean, "With no good spawning habitat in the pond, the CC could not deposit fertilized eggs, so there will be no successful spawns."

It could also mean, "Even though CC were capable of creating a large number of fry in the mixed-species pond, they were incapable of having a successful spawn because virtually zero fry were able to reach adulthood."

If the second meaning is the most common usage of "successful spawn", then I probably do need a few additional top predators in the pond.

My CC-only pond, now includes RES, tilapia, and HSB!

"It depends!" is by far the most common answer on Pond Boss.

One of the huge reasons I am choosing Blue Cats over Channel Cats is that very reason. BC tend to ride higher in the water column than CC, and don’t rummage around the bottom as much.

Rod, it means predation.

Old engineering truism, "If you really want your pants to stay up, then use a belt AND suspenders."

It appears that the consensus is to have zero intentional spawning habitat AND a predator.

In that case, I really think that HSB would make a great predator. Aren't they more adapted to hunt schooling fish (like shad), and therefore be highly effective against small schools of CC fry? (As compared to an ambush predator like LMB.)

Only if the schooling CC fry stay in the open water areas of the pond.

So add a few single-sex LMB.

Do you guys remember reading "There Was an Old Lady Who Swallowed a Fly" to your kids?

I am starting to get that vibe for this proposed CC pond.

The amazing thing is, it is all good advice!


Thanks,
Rod

Dave Davison1 , I have heard that before as well, but no one told my CC. Started with 25, half died and now I have MANY, no problem catching the smaller ones, but it is a job to catch the big ones. Last big one was 14+ pound and 30.+ inches long, was fun !

Funky,

Are your MANY channel cats a good population distribution or a lot of stunted little CCs?

(In your CC, LMB, BG, GHS pond.)

Funky, never seen or heard of that. But then, I know nothing about cold water and fish.

FishingRod,

My brother in law has two ponds in northern OK. One has golden shiners and CC, the other has CC, Longears, and GSF. The second 'might' have LMB from a farm pond upstream but I have yet to see one when fishing it. He uses the first pond to produce fingerlings to stock the second one. This arrangement has worked very well for him through the years.

The biggest fear of CC in monoculture where brood are reproducing in the grow out pond is too many CC offspring in the sizes we used to call "fiddlers" when they would plague us fishing for bigger fish. But for the most part, provided the number of brooders is limited to 3 to 4 of each sex per acre, feed and harvest can work to resolve most overproduction of CC offspring in monoculture. If a situation arises where growth is slow, CC in the 9 to 12 inch lengths can be harvested and dressed like you would a bullhead. Takes 15 seconds ... literally ... to clean one and they are very good to eat. One needs to harvest at a rate of about 1 lbs to every 1.5 to 2 lbs of feed in order prevent excessive standing weights. The sizes one needs to harvest at will depend on recruitment.

As far as we know, the CC are unable to recruit in the pond with GSF and LES. But there is plenty of recruitment in the other pond which serves as a source of stock for the larger - clear water pond where they grow large very fast and are high quality table fare.

If one doesn't mind, or likes as do I, to eat pan dressed catfish. One can double stock a growout and harvest 1/2 when they have attained half the growout weight (individuals). This prevents the gross standing weight from exceeding a predetermined limiting standing weight and increases yield by 50%. This is very affordable to do if you have access to commercial sources of fingerlings or can grow them yourself as my brother in law does.

jpsdad,

That sounds like an excellent "system" for good CC fishing and eating!

I might try a "poor-boy" version of that.

I think the consensus is for zero intentional spawning habitat in the CC pond. I wanted to then place 3-4 CC in a micro forage pond with spawning structure. If they pull off a successful spawn, then I will lower the water level and remove the adult CC. I will then try to grow out the appropriate number of fry to a size that will survive being transferred back into the main CC pond.

Anybody have an idea on the minimum size requirement of the micro-pond for the CC to spawn?

I don't think there's really a minimum, considering they are often bred in cages within a pond, or in concrete raceways. Just my 2 cents.

We're it me, I think I would try to grow 3 to 4 years worth of fingerlings every 3 to 4 years where the fingerling attain 6" the first summer and are then fed slow growth maintenance rations thereafter. One thing I will mention, 1 to 2" fry could be purchased for no more than 20 cents each, probably less. This is what catfish farmers who grow their own fingerlings purchase. They grow them to 6" then use them stock grow-out ponds.

It takes a year and a half to grow a CC to >1 lbs. They really need to be longer than 4" in the spring to make a fish you can filet by fall. So 6" fish is almost 3 times better than a 4" one. But once you get them to 6" you can grow them very slowly and stock following years. This may be especially helpful if you are actually hatching the fry as you mentioned interest in above. Think about how you would like to manage the growout pond of .5 to 1 acres. How much production do you want? what will be your annual stocking rate? From there decide whether you will grow new fry yearly or try to keep fingerlings over a 3 or 4 year period. After that I could share some ideas on how big a pond to devote to fingerling grow-out.

Thanks Steve,

A cage in the pond might be an even better idea!

It appears that the CC fry leave the nest after about a week of being guarded by the male. Is there a mesh fine enough to retain 1-week old CC fry?

If so, I could transfer as many as I want into the grow-out pond and set the rest free in the creek.

I was too quick on the draw (yet again).

Apparently, it is much easier to collect the eggs than the fry. I think one breeding container in the pond for the collection of eggs is the best option. I can be removed after one spawn (or may two?).

Think my wife will let me have a fry tank in the basement?

Also excellent advice, jpsdad.

Usually the best "poor boy" practice is to let the professionals do their job - since they have more experience and better facilities. I seriously doubt I could generate 1-2" fry for 20 cents each!

OTOH, I am not shy about throwing out my crazy ideas onto the PB forum. If the experts deem it only "half-crazy", then I might do it for the fun and learning experience, rather that actually saving money.

I live for the half-crazy ideas! Without crazy, or half-crazy ideas, we wouldn't have the knowledge that we have now!

Edit: Oh hey, it's showing that today is my birthday, but its not until tomorrow (17th).

Happy early Birthday!

Wish I could send you a mess of stocker blue catfish on the UPS truck that would arrive in perfect condition.

Best Bday present ever, lmao.

I don't know what's up with the calendar/clock on the forum, it's set for some strange time. Here it is 3/16/2021 @ 11:59 pm CST and the forum is showing 3/17/2021@ 4:59 a.m.

By all means. I was just letting you know what your options are. I am sure you can grow 1-2" fry for less than 20 cents. Depending on your scale, you might have to exclude your time in the calculation. Presenting the option wasn't about saving money. The real problem, especially in a small pond dedicated to fingerling, isn't growing the 1 to 2" fry. The challenge might be avoiding the outcome where there is nothing but 1" to 2" fry. It is really important to be able to control the number of fry going into the fingerling pond. If done correctly, in the first season you will saturate the goaled standing weight with fingerlings that are large enough(4 to 6 inches) to grow to good sizes the following year.

I think the experience is worth more than the money saved and I encourage you to raise them from scratch if this better suits you. Just want you to know that there are networks and cooperatives in most states that provide fry and fingerlings at commercial prices ... even to small farmers with only one acre to stock. A catfish farmer would go absolutely broke if he had to pay 75 cents to a dollar for 6 " fingerlings which prices are typical for many fisheries providers who get them .... from the same commercial sources. Anyways, where you might stock 400 to 800 annually, there is an incentive to grow a 3 or 4 year supply of 6" fingerling in a small space especially if your alternative is .75 cents to a dollar.

Hey Steve_!

Happy Birthday! Have a great one.

"I don't know what's up with the calendar/clock on the forum, it's set for some strange time. Here it is 3/16/2021 @ 11:59 pm CST and the forum is showing 3/17/2021@ 4:59 a.m."

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