This past Saturday I took down a 6' x 90' treated lumber deck that was in place for 3 years at a construction trailer mainly consisting of 4x4's 2x6's and 5/4" deck boards.
I'm wanting to build a temporary dock that may end up being in place up to 5 years or so until we decide after we've been there permenately for awhile what we want.
Not wanting to go the floating route. we don't get a lot of water fluctuation. When I build the permanent dock I will drain down.
There is a question here: Planning on going 6' wide and maybe 15' long. Has anyone ever driven 4x4's in? how much settleing over time? Put them in a 5 gallon bucket in concrete? leave them flat on the bottom? cut them to a point?Any suggestions? keep in mind its "Temporary". Lake is 10acres built in 2006. Thanks
I've never used wood posts in a BOW. I can't imagine what equipment it'd take to drive a 4x4 into the ground deep enought to be stable.
I think Menards has screw points that will bolt into 2" galv. pipe and you can just screw them into the pond bottom with a large pipe wrench. Use a "U" shaped bracket with ears on it and clamp the pier joists to the pipe. Or, they make pier fittings that will clamp a horizontal pipe to the vertical ones, and you lay the joists on top of the horizontal pipe.
How deep of water are you working in and what kind of slope to the ground is in the area?
Every dock I have built at my place has been using 6x6's and/or 4x6's with a 5 gallon bucket nailed to the bottom and filled with rocks or bricks. As long as the bottom of the lake is not mush, they won't settle much at all. The bucket with rocks will help to hold that end down on the bottom and the bucket will give you something to grab onto when you need to move the posts around to level the framing up. I use cheap treated landscape timbers to add additional stability to the dock as I get it framed out. I normally nail or screw a piece of scrap wood to the bottom of the timbers to provide a base for them. I do use a sledge hammer to force the timbers into the bottom. My land is mostly sandy red clay so that it is a pretty firm surface on the bottom. You can only work this way in water about armpit deep.
I've never used wood posts in a BOW. I can't imagine what equipment it'd take to drive a 4x4 into the ground deep enought to be stable.
I think Menards has screw points that will bolt into 2" galv. pipe and you can just screw them into the pond bottom with a large pipe wrench. Use a "U" shaped bracket with ears on it and clamp the pier joists to the pipe. Or, they make pier fittings that will clamp a horizontal pipe to the vertical ones, and you lay the joists on top of the horizontal pipe.
I can get my hands on plenty of Galvanized pipe. I'll check it out. Thanks
How deep of water are you working in and what kind of slope to the ground is in the area?
Maybe 4 to 5' at the end of the dock. Not steep at all in that location.
Every dock I have built at my place has been using 6x6's and/or 4x6's with a 5 gallon bucket nailed to the bottom and filled with rocks or bricks. As long as the bottom of the lake is not mush, they won't settle much at all. The bucket with rocks will help to hold that end down on the bottom and the bucket will give you something to grab onto when you need to move the posts around to level the framing up. I use cheap treated landscape timbers to add additional stability to the dock as I get it framed out. I normally nail or screw a piece of scrap wood to the bottom of the timbers to provide a base for them. I do use a sledge hammer to force the timbers into the bottom. My land is mostly sandy red clay so that it is a pretty firm surface on the bottom. You can only work this way in water about armpit deep.
If I can get a few years outa something along those lines that might be the trick. Thanks
I was thinking along the same lines as Bill. Putting a pad on the bottom of the post. The bucket does the same, or add a wood disc inside the bucket to help strengthen and spread the load out. Adding rocks is a nice idea. Adding some bracing should help keep the legs from sliding apart or down slope.
Sounds like a plan. If I ever get all the nails out and unloaded I'll post some pic's. Thanks
R&R, I like the idea of using 5 gallon buckets and concrete to create a larger footprint for the posts. I might try that myself. I want to build a fixed dock, but the bottom of my pond consists of a 3ft. layer of clay, which sits on top of a sand seam. Therefore, I can't drive the post in without risk of punching a hole in the bottom.
It seems that it would be fairly easy to place this type of post on location, and have it stay in place and not float off while attaching the joists. I agree with fish n chips, that diagonal bracing between the posts would be necessary for rigidity. I've found that 3/4inch thin wall galvanized electrical conduit (EMT) makes good diagonal bracing for wooden structures. (about $3 per 10ft.) Simply cut it to desired length, smash the ends flat to create connecting flanges, then drill a couple of nail holes in the flanges. This is particularly handy for X bracing.
I hear ya, on pulling the nails out of that salvaged lumber. After you get that done, it's all down hill..........Good luck with your project, and thanks for the bucket idea.
gw, I Make a living (30yr Electrician) off of EMT. Seems like i have it attached to everything around my place. Yet another good idea. Thanks
A tip I would pass on is to attach treated 2x4s to the posts with galvanized lag bolts just above the buckets. Once you attach your joists, you can move the 2x4s into place for X bracing above the water line then cut off the excess. Helps the stability a lot. I have built several docks this way and they are all standing and in good shape even the ones that I built 15 plus years ago. The piers that run off of the deck are 4 feet wide and have a 2x4 underneath running lengthwise for extra strength. Remember to use scraps for additional supports for the joists. Always attach a foot to the supports.
Excellent Idea Bill, Thanks
