First off, I know a tree would be good forage but this is too large for the size of my pond.

I've got a largish tree that has fallen into my pond from the shore (right on the shoreline--I cut it off right after it fell so it's totally in the water but very close)). It's about 1 foot in diameter and probably 30-40 feet tall. So it's not huge but it's not small. It's been in there since last fall so I'm sure it hasn't gotten any lighter.

Has anyone undertaken removing a tree from a pond and can you offer up any advice? I don't know if a skid loader is going to be able to lift any of the tree or not--honestly it seems like a bad idea getting a skid loader close enough to the shoreline to do anything. Ideally if there's anything that can be done without heavy equipment, it'd be great but I'm not sure the best way to tackle this.

Thanks

Do you, or a neighbor have a farm tractor? I took one out about that size two years ago. I removed it right away, which did make it float somewhat. Terrain makes a difference. Is Grade at edge of pond uphill? Room to get a tractor there? Anything around to attach a come-along to? Pulleys and block-n-tackle can do wonders sometimes in these scenarios. Is the butt of the log down a ledge in the water, or is it at least on the shoreline? Pics?

Word of caution- I wouldn't go into the water to cut it. The possibility of being pinched/caught underneath when it separates isn't worth it. Hard to see everything under water like you can normally. I would try to pull some of it up onto the shoreline, then cut off a chunk at a time till you have the power to pull the whole thing out.

Can you get a chain around it, and get enough length to hook to a tractor or loader on solid ground where they can get a firm purchase?

I totally agree on removing it right away. Before it sinks into the sediment, and vegetation begins to grow on it, making it a lot harder to pull out.

Is it a shallow slope where it fell, or is there a ledge the tree has to come up and over first? Maybe cut some smaller logs to use as rollers?

I've cut a fallen tree into smaller pieces while in the water.

I first tied my cord off at various lengths and secured each to a post on land. Then I tied the last two lengths in the deepest part of water to inflatable rafts - I didn't want the trunks left in the pond, I wanted them out, and they were not sitting flat on the bottom due to a couple branches.

Then I used a hand saw and sawed that bugger at the premarked lengths. Note that I had cords at each end of cut sections, so two cords per section. In this way it was easy to maneuver the trunks in the water. I had no real obstacles in the water preventing me from turning the trunks or pulling toward shore. Also, the rafts definitely helped me.

I've attached some shots I took on my phone. I don't know if it helps much. I can try to take some more tomorrow if you want to see the length of the tree, etc but I'm guessing the important part is the shoreline. What I was trying to show was the drop from shore but I don't know if it shows. The shoreline drops about 18" immediately to the bottom of the pond.

I do have access to a tractor. I also will have a landscaper at the house in about a month but I'm not sure what equipment he'll be bringing. I'm also assuming the tree has gone down into the muck enough already to be a pain in the rump.

If I got the tractor, do you think I can lift the trunk straight up, put a log under and use that to roll/slide it onto shore a bit? I'm just mildly worried about adding a picture to that thread with all the tractors in the water for one .

I chain trees this size to my Tundra and pull them up steep slopes routinely and a few out of the water [they were smaller than this, though]. Never had issues before - I just go slow and steady.

A 4x4 tractor with a boom would be ideal. That, or a Ford 4x4 and put it in 4L. A Chevy would never work.

I would get a 10' log chain, back the tractor down off to one side of the tree, not directly in line with it, (to allow it to go to one side or the other of the stump), and pull it out.

If you had 4WD tractor with a FEL, you might be able to use the loader to lift the tree a few inches and back it up onto shore.

To add a bit more on the good advice already given.

If the log chain don't work initially like Spark says, there is an added bonus to try. If you know log chain, you can take the slip hook and place it in such a position on the log that when you pull, it will try to rotate the trunk. Sometimes this will help break it free by giving it an added umpf.

Is there a another tree overhead to give the trunk some lift before pulling?

Another trick might be to tie a chain from the butt to another large tree. The tighter the better. Then hook a second chain to that chain, and pull sideways. You wont be able pull far, but you increase pulling strength for a split second that may break it free from the muck.

As you know, the big obstacle will be getting over that ledge. That's where it will hang up the worse, possibly flipping the tractor. Carefull at that point. Might slide/prop something flat underneath it act as a ramp? Or dig a spot on the edge as a ramp if needed, lots more work.

Easiest is to get an oversized tractor and go

If you know anyone with a tractor with a bucket on it I would use that. I would get as close to the water as you safely can, put a chain around that tree and attach the other end of the chain to the bucket. Lift that bucket as high as it will go and just back up. It should come right out.

If you fail at that for some reason you might be able to wade out in the pond and get a chain around the tree closer to the top. Then you might be able to spin it around and get it so its parallel to the shore line, up in real shallow water. At that point, you can put several chains or heavy ropes to it and get a couple buddies with trucks to pull it out like a team of oxen.

I don't think you will have any problems with the first method though. I think that it will come right out if you try the tractor.

Based on the pics., I would just choke a chain around and pull it out with my truck. No need to get the tractor out.

If you end up using the tractor and FEL method, I would lower the bucket until it almost touched the tree then chain it up. You don't want to have to lift the bucket any higher than necessary.

I agree that a pickup might pull it out, and if that's all I had I would probably try it myself, but this is a job tailor made for a tractor. Just above idle, and let the torque and gearing work for you....slowly, and controllably.

I don't think I would waste the Diesel on fudging around with a small tree hooked up to the FEL. Tie a choker and pull the whole darn thing out in a few seconds. That's not a big tree

Hook on to it and snatch that thing out with the tractor

I suppose there are lots of ways to skin that cat. I'm just too stubborn not to use what I feel is the most appropriate tool for the job. If I'm using an adjustable wrench to tighten a plumbing union, I won't use it to try and remove a set of lawnmower blades on the next job simply because I happened to already be holding it in my hand....I have the correct tools for that job.

If that were my pond, I would nose the old 1958, 801 Powermaster down as close as I could, and chain that log to the front of the tractor. I wouldn't worry about lifting it at all....that tractor doesn't even have a FEL on it... then I would ease the clutch out in reverse, about 1/3 throttle, and gage the resistance. I'm betting it would walk it right out. If not, then get the tractor with the FEL.

Sure pickups will pull. Happens every day, and sometimes we use what we have available. But tractors were MADE to pull. Right tool for the job.


(I'm thinking we need a thread that discusses the various items that members consider indispensable for country living....)

One word TRACTOR

Since we are offerring up ideas....I would leave it as structure but that's me. I dun swim in the pond or go water skiing. I just fish. I could see that trunk as a great place for a nice bass to hang around and those branches as a great place to hold smaller fish.

Probably would not be an issue for anyone.

They do make a good hiding/ ambush spot

The Kubota is nice for what it is, but I would be afraid of breaking something. For the same money, I could have gotten a bigger tractor without all the bells and whistles. I wish I did that.

I suppose I'm old school in that I don't own a 4WD tractor, a diesel tractor, or a FEL. I would like to change that one day, however.

I have the 801, and Big Allis....a 1940 Allis Chalmers model "B" The Ford isn't a utility tractor, it's a farm tractor. Rated for 3-14's in our soil, and more importantly, capable of enduring that load for as many hours in the day that the farmer could stand it. She has the weight and the torque to get it done.

Big Allis is now relegated to handling a 5' finish mower only. Counting the four plug wires, there is a grand total of 9 wires on the tractor...including two battery cables. She sits outside year-round, in the rain and snow, with her vertical exhaust uncovered. This past Saturday I put the battery charger on her, added fuel, and hit the starter. Two revolutions and she was running. She has magneto ignition and a crank starter also. If the battery is dead, and I'm feeling adventurous, I can pull her through and off she goes.

I used to feel bad at how I treat her, but now I realize that she probably looks at it the same way I do...it's a badge of honor, kind of thing. 75 years old, and still going strong. Mows every week.

Right there with you Sparkie. Growing up on the farm in the 60's we had an Allis WD, a Farmall M, a Deere H and a Ford Jubilee...we got er done!...I think my knee problem today is probably from the hand clutch on that WD wacking me!

I would love to have that Jubilee today!

As I recall, the Allis had a hand crank stored on the fender you could use to start her up if you were man enough!

There is hardly a day goes by that I'm not handling logs of some sort. Comes with my territory. People are bringing logs in with their trucks all the time. I have seen smashed windows, pulled off bumpers, broken axles, and knocked down tailgates that will never close again.... all in the name of "I got a tough truck" or "was in a hurry". With handling logs, I would say the average is one out of ten end up with damage that will be costly to fix. I don't have that kind of money to just take a chance, especially if there are better options.

I also know many that have been in/around accidents from pulling. One death(flipped over and burned him up), another pinned and by himself for hours(never will recover), and so on. Work smart....

Pull it from the side first to get it away from the stump and broke loose. Hook something to it you think will pull it out and try. If it does not come out, get something bigger. If that doesn't do it, call a wrecker.

If available, a snatch block and dead man tree will double your pulling power. Or more, depending on pulley arrangement.

Good points. I forget that everyone is not experienced in such things. Nylon tow ropes kill a farmer about every year. Clevis or hitch breaks and goes through back windshield.

Newer non nylon limited recoil ropes are safer but not fool proof.

Hook to drawbar only on tractors.

Another vote for a tractor and chain - but make sure it's a strong chain. Pull, don't jerk it.

If it doesn't move, don't try and jerk it. Get a bigger piece of equipment.

Try to hook to the fixed drawbar, but if you use a drawbar on the three point for a particular job, remember to lower the drawbar below the axle centerline before pulling.

Thanks everyone for all the replies so far. I'm planning on borrowing the tractor this weekend and giving it a shot. I'll keep you guys posted as well.

Sprkplug says this to reduce tipping hazard. If pulling from too high a point the tractor rearing and tipping over backward is greatly increased. On that same line of thought, a tractor positioned going up a hill is already at a greater hazard than one on flat ground.

As an example, an older row crop tractor (in this case a 1958 620 JD _ high center of gravity tractor) can tip over backward pulling nothing if engaging the clutch on a steep incline. Learned this at about 12 years old many years ago. It did not go over backwards, but had it standing about straight up. After two tries, turned around and backed the tractor up the steep incline.

Point is, pay attention to what you are doing, pull steady as esshup says, and be alert and ready at the clutch. Pulling at the factory fixed drawbar will help cause the tractor to spin out before it goes over backwards because as the front end reaches a certain height geometry will cause the force to reduce traction and attempt to pull the front end back down. Raising the pull point too high changes geometry and will actually pull the tractor right on top of you......quickly.

Well said snrub.... and quickly means it can happen under a second, even at slow speeds. Too little time to do anything unless you are prepared ahead of time!!! A possible point this may happen in this case would be if that log hits the stump or digs into the bank and stops it. Having foot ready at the clutch at all times can be a life saver.

That's also why I mentioned my initial attempt would likely be made by hooking to the front of the tractor, and backing up to gage the resistance. Safer, as traction will be the limiting factor. If you do that, be sure you have a structurally sound place to hook too....lots of brush guards torn off that way!

I welded hooks on the bucket to hook chain to .. Slow is definitely the best way....

TSK, you have a lot of good options on here. I'm not an expert log remover, but if it were me and I was borrowing a tractor with a loader (bucket, etc.) I would first try and use the loader to lift and move the log over the stump and bank without moving the tractor. Not sure what size tractor, but most with a loader should be able to handle the weight of that tree. I have welded hooks on the front of my buckets blade also and would hook a log chain to the front of the bucket lower the bucket until its about 6 inches over the log and wrap the chain around the log a few times. Then slowly begin lifting the bucket until the log is a foot or two over the stump and bank. You don't want to raise the bucket as high as you can because the higher the bucket the more unstable the tractor becomes. Keeping the bucket raised begin tilting the bucket down like you are dumping the bucket. This will move the log towards the tractor and the land. The log will go a little lower as you tilt the bucket down. Make sure the bucket is just high enough to avoid hitting anything with the log. Depending on the tractor and loader you may be able to move the log around three feet using this technique.

I have pulled several logs like this out with a pickup also, just make sure your hooked up to a strong point (not a bumper hitch) like a frame mounted towing hitch or the front tow hook and go very slowly. This will surpise roadwarrior but my chevy's done it several times. I would agree with Sparkplug, however, this is tailor made for a tractor and if you could get one that is the route I would go. I have seen a lot of damage from what appeared to be an easy problem around the farm.

Good Luck

My two cents: Mix 40# of flash powder, pack into 5g bucket, seal with polyurethane, install a 5' fuse, light and run like hell. Please video for me.

T I like your style! Let her rip!

+ 1 on the bang and video

I had to remove a couple trees about this size from my parents pond when they purchased it 7-8 years ago. Luckily it was the middle of the summer when we did it so I was able to swim and wade out and rig them, although treading water with a log chain over your shoulder is a little bit on the difficult side... We used my 3/4 ton truck to pull them out because neither my dad or I had our tractors at that time. In 4 low my truck pulled them out with ease and there are no worries of a truck raring up plus you are a lot safer should a strap fail. With the log only being a foot in diameter I would try this first if you access to a 4x4 truck.




If you go this route I would like video as well!

Well, the tractor worked like a charm. It was so easy I am a bit embarrassed I didn't just try it myself earlier. I had been expecting a fight but it went quite easy. The tractor did try to lift a few times but taking it slow caught things before anything happened. Now all I have to do is snag all the broken branches down there. Thanks again.

Awesome! Glad it went off with out a hitch. IMO it never hurts to get advice when doing something potentially dangerous.

That's what is so good about this place. You can learn from others mistakes before you go and hurt yourself (usually that is!).