Hey all;

Need some help trying to understand how to split logs. I have a splitting maul, an axe, and an electric splitter. I have many logs I cut last Fall I want to split, but the electric splitter won't even crease them. When I try to use the maul, I simply bury it and it won't make a split. I've also tried using a wedge and sledgehammer but I often times just get it buried in the log and there it sits - too deep to get out and I can't budge it even with several dozen hits from the sledge.

I realize this is probably hard to describe via a post, but I need to learn how to use this maul on the larger logs. I know there are a few of you out there who have been doing this all their lives and can give me the lessons you learned as a youngster. I am sick and tired of throwing $175 for a cord of wood every Fall. Any advice would be appreciated from this city boy!

Thanks in advance guys.

TJ what is the diameter and length of the pieces your trying to split, naturally the longer the piece the harder to split.
For most larger pieces of wood a 20 ton or larger wood splitter is best. Many places usually rent splitters for less than $50, and you can split alot of wood in a day without killing yourself with a maul.
If your determined to get lots of excercise make sure the log is on a hard piece of wood and work the edge of the log with your maul to start the split.

Hey AP

Logs are around 16-20" long and 12-14" in diameter. I bought a $400 4 ton electric log splitter a few years back but it won't do anything to these logs. Is that common for a 4 ton splitter to have major limits in their capabilities?

Work the EDGE of the log...okay - that's NOT what I've been doing. Jeesh...that makes complete sense from a physics standpoint.

I am a pretty strong guy, I know it's not for lack of effort or strength, but I simply cannot get these logs split. I imagine a 20T splitter costs around $1k, huh?

What kind of wood is it?

Cottonwood from my land...but also get ash and elm from out there. I know Cottonwood isn't ideal to burn, but it's quick and hot and I like to start my fires with it and throw on the oak, ash, or locust later on once I have some coals and heat rolling. I'm self taught - any advice is appreciated.

Yeah you really need a bigger splitter with 16 to 20 inch pieces.
Have you checked around to see if any rental places have a splitter, I would think someone has them if your in a good size town. Unless your gonna split alot of wood every year it's best to rent one, a good one will run $1400.
Sounds like you have some tough wood, I only have oak, maple and beech, with a little yellow birch.

TJ:

There's 2 ways to tackle it, one way is to try taking the "edges" off of the log and it'll work just fine. With an underpowered splitter like you have (trust me, for what you're wanting to do, it is) you have to look at the piece of wood to be split, noting where the branches were (if any). Try and keep the end of the log that is closest to where the branch was towards the ram end, and not the splitter end. Also, the wood should be partially dried. Look at the end of the log, and you'll see it starting to crack. Use that crack as a starting point on splitting that piece, fitting the splitters' wedge in the crack.

Also, if you take the "edges" off of the log, try to square it up, then split rectangles off of the log if possible. It'll stack easier than if they are the "pizza pie" wedge shape.

Doing it manually, you'll probably need a couple of wedges, a sledge hammer and the maul. Again, look to see where it started to split when drying. For the larger pieces, forget the maul, go right to the wedges and the sledge. Start with one wedge right on that split. If you get close to burying that wedge and it still isn't split, start another wedge right next to that first one, effectively doubling up on it's width.

The easiest way? Rent an upright hydraulic 2-stage splitter for the $50/day. Get 2 friends to help, one feeding you the logs to be split, you splitting them, and the other friend moving the split pieces out of your way. If you have enough logs cut to length and piled next to the splitter, I'll bet you could split 3-4 cords in a day easily.

I paid a guy $700 for 5 mixed cords of oak/maple/cherry/hickory this summer including delivery and him stacking it in the woodshed.

TJ,
IIRC,wood splits a whole lot easier after it freezes.When I lived in Mich. we always stacked our firewood and split it in the winter.You dont sweat near as much as in the summer either.

P.S.You can also set the beer in the snow and you dont need an ice chest nor spend money on ice.

If they have dried up the freese want help, at least that is my experience. The lesser watter they hold, the lesser the efect off the frost.

TJ, lots of good advice, the only difference for me is I prefer a horizontal splitter, your splitting the wood and catching it at waist height, saves on the old back muscles, and if you can get 1 or 2 people to help , you can go thru wood like _hit thru a goose.
Also remember eye and ear protection, a good pair of tight fitting rubber gloves, and steel toed boots if you have them.

Go easy on the beer till your done, I think Tom splits his wood with dynamite anyway.

Many splitters like this one can be used horizontally or vertically.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=116418-270-24BF572B711&lpage=none

This is my faworit splitter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll5R4oSSmQc&feature=related

I didn't buy one yet, but I'w borrowd from a friend that fits my excavator.
So no more sore back.

What elm we have left around here is the hardest wood to split I've ever seen. Ash should be pretty easy if it is straight grained sections. Cottonwood I have never handled.

TJ, check Craiglist or your local paper for guys that own splitters for hire. Some of them just want a % of the wood they split for payment…it might be worth a shot.

That's a nice splitter if the wood that you have is straight and small enough to fit. The wood that's on my place wouldn't fit, the trees are too big in diameter. Unfortunately, they are Pin Oak, and there are branches coming out all over the place so they aren't fun to split, but they burn good! My cousin has a splitter like this, too bad he doesn't live closer! Looking at the website, he's got the Model 15-20 with an elevator to fill up the trailer. He has a small front end loader to load the logs. He's cutting lodgepole pine and shrink wrapping small buncles for sale at campgrounds, convenience storees, bait shops, etc.

Blockbuster wood processor

Thanks guys - I think I'll be mindful to keep my cuts shorter [12-14"] so splitting isn't so difficult and may rent a gas powered splitter for a day and see what I can do.

That's a nice splitter if the wood that you have is straight and small enough to fit. The wood that's on my place wouldn't fit, the trees are too big in diameter. Unfortunately, they are Pin Oak, and there are branches coming out all over the place so they aren't fun to split, but they burn good! My cousin has a splitter like this, too bad he doesn't live closer! Looking at the website, he's got the Model 15-20 with an elevator to fill up the trailer. He has a small front end loader to load the logs. He's cutting lodgepole pine and shrink wrapping small buncles for sale at campgrounds, convenience storees, bait shops, etc.

Blockbuster wood processor
[/quote]

It can handel biger zises but then you have to do a bit manuel
operationes, araound here you woul usualy get fairly god prices on bigger diameter, for other uses than fire wood.

My father used to say that the best firewood was the one that heated you more than once.
1.the jobb of cutting/splitting
2.transport/stocking
3.burning
Iff you had a real fight in any operationes that was extra heat,
and maybe even something to brag about, so if you can take that aproach its valueble firewood we are discusing.
PAUL

Cottonwood is very tough to split. Too fibrous. Kind of like trying to split a piece of plywood. As others have said, the ash will split better when it is cold.

TJ:

How bad is it cutting/splitting the locust? I heard that it's good wood, but not so good to work with.

I have a lot of volunteer honey locust trees on my land that are super dangerous with 3" razor sharp spines...don't want to walk on a downed branch in deep grass or take a turn too sharply on the atv - it would take out an eye in a snap.

I haven't felled any locusts on my land yet, as I was told they will shoot up literally dozens of new trees unless one uses diesel fuel to kill the tree. I'm not really into applying petroleum on my native prairie so thought I'd leave them be until they really cause a problem.

However, the mixed hardwood cords I've bought in the past contain Locust - it's easy to identify and super dense. Looks like it wasn't easy to split [rather twisted and fibrous] but I don't have any experience splitting it personally. I do know it burns very long, clean, and hot...my favorite wood to burn.

How big are your locusts, TJ? I've got a ton too, that have grown up in old pasture that we're reclaiming. We just pull the ones up to about 4" diameter with a chain and tractor-they come out roots and all, if the ground is moist. Makes a heck of a bonfire when they're dried out.

My locusts are anywhere from 4" - 10". The grow slowly at my place due to lack of precipitation over the last 8 years. I don't have a tractor...yet - but that's a good idea.

Has anyone else worked with the 4 ton electric log splitter I have? As usual I made a somewhat expensive purchase without doing my homework and now own a tool that can't perform on jobs I need. Sounds like the 12T ramsplitter is the best electric version available according to gardenweb. Suffice it to say I trust the PB Forum's feedback more than any other, that's why I'm asking. Let me know if you have any experience/opinions to share.

Thanks

TJ

I quit lumber jacking years ago, but in the 1980s I was cutting/splitting 15-20 cords each year. A lot of the wood we burned was cottonwood and elm. Both are crappy woods for a fire place, but work fine for a wood burning furnace.

I built myself a hydraulic splitter. The Cylinder was 7"x30" with a 3.5" shaft. I put a 2 stage hydraulic pump with a 16HP gas motor on it. That splitter would have popped your logs into submission without even going to the second stage! 30 years later the splitter is still on the job though it is now on its 4th or 5th owner. I believe it had a maximum of around 50 tons of splitting force in the second stage. It was just the ticket for splitting 30” diameter x 24 " long logs right through the center.

Did I mention that I also built a thermostatically controlled forced air wood burning furnace that was the sole source of heat for our house for many years? During really cold weather (-10 thru -20F) it needed to be filled with wood once a day. During milder periods it would run up to four days without attention.

Dwight...good idea, I don't know what I was thinking. I'm going to go build my own right now. Should be done by dinner time I'll wager.

In all seriousness, a handy guy could probably consider building one - but I lack even remote mechanical skills so this option isn't on the table for me. I was reading in another forum guys were making 20T electric and gas versions for $500 bucks. I sure wish I had the skills to do that.

TJ,
I agree with Theo, forget trying to spit elm with anything but a hydraulic splitter. Even then, be prepared to pry the log from the wedge on occasion. Stringy stuff. Give me oak, cherry and poplar anytime.

Andedammen,

We must be related because my dad said the same thing about cord wood warming you more than once.

I am not sure about Cottonwood or Ash (we don't have those varieties where I live in Texas) but Oak will typically have what we refer to as a "wind check". It is in the center of the rings when you look at the cross section of a log. I was always told when splitting wood by hand to align your wedge, maul, axe, etc with the wind check and you were more likely to make a clean split with less energy. Of course, that bit of info came from my dad during what he refers to as my "formative years"! He seemed to think splitting wood was good training for football.

It seems as though yall have it figured out with hydraulic splitters; however, if it doesn't work out, send a bus to Texas and we can fill it with "exchange students" (illegals from South of the border). They work cheap and you can offset their cost by selling the surplus they produce!

Dwight

You're retired, pond is pretty much done for fishing...why not come on down and we can build one together?

TJ, you've gotten a bunch of solid recommendations here and I totally agree with going the machine route if your budget and usage needs allow. However, in the meantime you may also want to try this with the maul - it's a technique that I've used for big diameter logs and have never been unable to split one.

Similar to AP's advice, I always try the edges first. If that works, great because you'll have the whole thing done in no time. If not, though, take your maul and smack away at the log starting on one side and hitting it generally in line all the way to the other side, essentially scoring it across its width. Then just keep repeating that until you get a crack going, after which you should be able to get it split. If the log is too long to get fully split with your maul, bury the maul so you have an opened crack, drop a wedge down into the crack, and then whack away with the heaviest sledge you can work with. You may need more than one wedge depending on log size.

In any event, that technique has never failed me unless it's been a ridiculously knotty, gnarly old log that just won't split no matter what you do to it, but those seem to be fairly uncommon in my experience.

Again, though, go with power! Life will be easier and you'll get a heck of a lot more done!

TJ:

I believe I have the one that you do. Either that or it's a 5 ton unit. It leaves a LOT to be desired, but if the logs are <10" you can split them O.K.

I don't think the 12t electric unit will be strong enough.....

How much wood do you think you'll be going thru in a year? A cord is a pile of wood stacked 4' x 4' x 8'

I've got the 4T Ryobi. Of course I believed the statement it could handle logs up to 14" diameter...won't do it, at least not with Cottonwood. Cottonwood is so light and soft it actually bends instead of cracks, rendering the splitter useless.

Luckily my neighbor has a vertical/horizontal 30t two stage splitter that I can borrow when needed. I've had a few logs where it slowed it down enough to engage the 2nd stage.

Not get off thread, but please believe me when I say pulling, pushing, cutting or anything else justs makes Locust very mad!! Either basal Remedy/diesel at 25%Remedy or Surmount with Inergy as a surfactant as a foilar application should be done first. Yolk Sac, I'd be very interested in your reporting back next spring as to how many Locusts suckers have come up. Maybe Locusts react different in other parts of the country. But in Texas, there will be 30-40 suckers 2-3 feet high with 2" thorns by June for every mature tree felled...du

Splitting logs by hand is definitely some good exercise... Makes you appreciate what the frontiersman had to do to keep warm every winter!

No doubt on all fronts, Travis! I've done a couple of fairly large trees the past few years and each has lasted as a pretty decent summer project between family, work, and everything else in life. I am always kind of disappointed to see that last log get split because it is a great stress reliever and enjoyable way to sweat a little.

jims place...very nice picture of the "PB Mascot". He's heading north to retire.....

30" Dwight? I seem to remember wheezing some up on your splitter that were more like 45" including one boxelder stump that was like lifting a box full of hernias even for a couple of fairly stout guys.

Back then if you were lazy you either froze or starved to death!
If you reflect on it, we really have it good.

Reflecting even deeper alot of people still do, and they are youst unfortunate not lazy.
So some of us have it REALLY REALLY GOOD.

I wouldn't bee poor, even for a million $

PAUL

I think Tom splits his big logs by lighting the fuse and running like the wind, being careful not to trip over the beer cooler.

Those were the days....natural selection at it's best! [Hope this slips by moderation]

+1

I had a feeling YOU, AP, Cecil, George and Burgermeister would chime in for sure...

Well said!

+1

the advent of electricity and reciprocating engines have taken all of the fun out of cutting and splitting wood.

Not at my house.I still get a BANG out of it,but you have to gather the wood twice.

Is there anything you don't do with a BANG Tom? HAHA

Did you ever try to cut down trees with "detonating fuse" TOM

thats deffinetlie a experience with a BANG imposible to define wich way the tree will fal so keep safe distance,logg partly splitt in the same operation as well.
PAUL

CJ,someone told me when I was young that you get a real bang out of life as we know it.I guess I took it literally.

The one in the outbuilding is a no-name brand, rated at 4.5T. It's worked O.K. so far, but for the bigger logs, especially the ones with knots, I need to borrow the neighbors' gas splitter. I try and cut the logs 20"-22" long. This one will handle logs up to 24" long IIRC.

I will be selectively harvesting some white poplar (aspen) soon for next year's wood. I buck it all into stove length then wait until it the temps hit at least 20 below for a good week, then split by hand. Frozen green logs are much easier to split, they usually end up shattering cleanly.

We have balsam poplar here, some people call it black poplar, very similar or same as cottonwood, I don't touch the stuff, too pulpy and never seems to cure properly and creates lots of creosote in your chimney.

Not like I have you guys dying for an update - so here's one anyhow:

Went and cut around a half cord Green and Black Ash this weekend. Cut logs in 14" lengths - shorter than usual as per your guidance. Regardless of diameter [up to 24"] I used your collective advice and with a maul got through the entire batch no problems. I'm using a Fiskar Maul which I love but it has a short handle [28"]. I missed a couple of strikes towards the end of the day and am lucky to have my kneecaps - seriously. Anyone have and horror stories on that front?

I have cottonwood logs that have been seasoning for three years I still can't get a crack started. Learned the source of my ongoing frustration has been messing with soft wood like CW. It's like trying to split peanut butter. All hardwoods from here on out for me.

Thanks again guys...time for an advil

TJ:

I don't have any horror stories. I've been able to split Cottonwood in the 4.5t splitter. If you have any laying around and I swing thru, I'll try and show you how I do it.

I have no problem splitting the edges off first. Of course, I'm seldom aiming for the edges.

Control man control. If you can't control the maul then leave it alone. Use an ax or better yet rent a splitter. Of course that would take all the fun and work out of the job.

Eric, axes hang up in post oak. Sometimes I have to use wedge(s) and a hammer to free the axe. Then I have to free the wedges. Splitters take all the fun out of drinking beer.

Beer and maul used together are as dangerous for the user as beer and cars. Same can be said for ax , hammer and wedge. Now beer and chainsaw used together are a real cutting edge experience. Just don't stand near anyone engaging in those activities.

You know, I sometimes think about cutting and/or splitting and remember the danger. So, I just have a beer and forget all about getting sweaty.

Actually I consider chain saws as the most dangerous labor saving device ever invented.

I know one guy who would up with a broken foot when he hit a wedge with a sledge hammer. The wedge went flying and hit his foot.

TJ, a good length for a maul handle is 36", another thing that I do is dig a small 6" hole in sandy soil, put a flat piece of wood in it and split logs on that, it cuts down on the log kicking back towards you if you hit it the wrong way. Don't try to kill the log, just accurate even strokes work best.

I find chain saws get dangerous when you get overconfident and don't give it the respect it deserves.

Things that eat meat have sharp teeth.
Wood cutting tools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.

I've got a Sthihl 041AV that i have had for 30 years, and i don't start it up unless i have had a good night's sleep, it is early in the day and i haven't had too much caffeine. A good way to look at it - the saw don't run on beer, neither should the operator.

I am glad I didn't know about that beer deal during my lumber jacking days. I might have gotten hurt!

Great tips...the maul handle is far too short on the Fiskars but have nothing else negative to report. I still am having a helluva time with Cottonwood...it's not worth the time and effort required as it relates to their buring merits.