You may have heard about this but if you have not........get ready for some heart stopping action with this one.

1. Do not use this on light tackle, use at least 14lb. test.

2. Use a stiffer rod.

Here it is: Buy a "Triple wing" aluminum buzz bait. The 3 wings makes this bait rise to the top more quickly than 2 blades. I have always used the riveted kind.

Take a pair of side cutters and remove the lead head completely off of the buzzer, down to the hook connection. This is simple and takes just a couple minutes. Use a pair of needle nose pliers and "open" up wire where hook is attached.....just enough to get hook off.

Get what used to be Bomber Rattle-R, now called Cordell Spot, 1/2 ounce, and attach the bait by the split ring to the now empty wire connection where the old hook was, crimp wire back closed.

Here is the key part: You need to tune this bait by bending the long wire that runs in a straight line to the Cordell by bending it down in a gradual curve.

This is simple to do and only takes a couple minutes. The reason you are doing this is because if you don't bend the wire down a bit, it will cause the rear hooks of the Cordell to catch on the upper portion (buzzer blades).

Just take this bait to your pond or pool and first bend it down a bit, then test it see if it runs ok.

This whole bait transformation should be done in 15 minutes or less. The tuning takes a few more minutes.

To complete this job, after your bait is running good, bend top portion, (wire that blades are on) downward "slightly" from where you tie.

The purpose of this is to allow your 3 blades to make your new bait "POP" up out of the water within the first couple cranks of the reel handle or less, so this wire needs to be angled downward slightly to allow water to pull it upwards quicker.

In other words, throw it in, turn your reel crank and your bait should be already on top chattering away with all three blades churning the top, while your little secret is just under the surface wiggling like a duck trying to outrun that monster coming after it.

Take my word for it, this bait works when other buzzers will not get a strike. I have dated pictures of many 5 pounders who just could not resist the enticing rattle of this bait.

With this bait, there are no explosions on top, they sneak up under this thing and almost jerk the rod out of your hand without you ever knowing they were coming..........

Robbie Roberson

Pictures?

I can almost figure this out from the description but would love a picture.

Dave, I am sending you an email of a "paint" drawing, could you send a copy to Jersey ? Maybe you could post a pic of this set up.

Sorry for the drawing, I am way behind on posting pics etc.......maybe someday.

Once you get this thing made and tuned, it will last for years. I still have several I have used for over 15 years.


Robbie Roberson.

Free signature line available for the first user who snags it:

"PB Forum Member since before Dave Davidson posted pictures"

That would be a good sized crowd.

Yeah, I'll send it to Jersey.

PB Forum Member since before Dave Davidson posted pictures...Did I miss something? A picture of Dave's ponds?

I just copied your info onto a patent disclosure form and fowarded it to Washington to the US patent office as my new invention. Thanks for making me rich

rockytopper, they came out many years ago with a "easy connect body" of a buzzer that did not last for some reason, it enabled you to quick connect your choice of lures to a buzz bait.

I learned about this first home made version when I was fishing with some tournament guys on the hungry fisherman trail many years ago.

It's one of those ideas that has been around for many years, but for some reason never took off. It does however catch big fish very well and is easy to make.



Robbie Roberson

Burger; Nope. That's why the smart a$$ remark.

I'm either really slow or I just missed something here...........


Robbie Roberson

Darn it Robbie! I guess I have to go back to my lotto retirement plan now.

Dave D. chooses not to learn how to post pictures on the forum here, even though he is a moderator, and in the IT business to boot.

But his skills lay in diplomacy hence his title, the "Guvnor."

Robbie, send me the drawing or photo and I'll post it. The suspense of this is killing me. I've posted one or two highly educational and informative pictures so I've got the process down.

no doubt, I want to try this!!! just save the pic to your desktop then go to photobucket.com and register for a free account, then sign in and then it will give you a chance to save the pic in photobucket. You hit the browse button, open your desktop and click on the desired pic. Once you do all of that it is saved in photobucket. now look at your pics in photobucket. click in the little box under the pic so its marked and at the bottom hit the button to generate html code or whatever it says. when it does that it will give you 4 sets of code and one is designated for message boards. highlight this in blue with your mouse and RIGHT click on your mouse. hit copy, then open pondboss and just like when you are typing normally RIGHT click and hit paste and walla, we can see this lure!!!

Email sent.........

Just bend wire where arrows are. This is a super easy bait to make. Especially after you make the first and get it tuned. The key to this bait is do not over bend your wire or it will heat up and become brittle.

Re tie your line often while using this bait, use at least 14lb test, and make sure your rod is up to the challenge of throwing a little heavier bait.

The key to this bait is confidence......as it is with most "never heard of" bass baits. I have pictures of really big bass I caught for many years on mine. I have many colors I used, and many buzzer configurations such as a "Dual wing" buzzer.

These are honest working baits that will bring spotted bass up from really deep...... over seldom fished deep water bridge pilings......

I used to catch many spotted bass by scraping the old concret pilings with the aluminum wings until a chunk spot would maul it........And don't even get me started on what these things do in extremly hot shallow muddy water, you would not believe me.

Confidence......99.99 % of bass have never seen this bait.





Robbie Roberson.

Sounds like a good way to get your arm broken.

Here's Robbie's illustration...

very nice. It gives me some ideas for taking some of my other favorites to the top as well!!!

A few more pointers on making this bait.

Bend wire where arrows show and adjust accordingly when you get it on the water.

These are a little more weight to throw, but well worth the effort. One out of 100 throws you might get the rear hooks caught on the wire somewhere, no big deal.

Take my word for one thing, don't scrimp on line or rod with these baits.

And this is very important, I tested almost every ratter etc. bait made on these lures, the cordell makes the most sound and wiggles better than any I tested with a lot less effort.

The well known rattle trap just does not have the "wiggle" under this bait needed to provoke strikes, I have tested them all.

Don't take my word for it, test one yourself in clear water while watching and listening under water. You can pull a cordell at half the speed and get more wiggle than any of the others.

Important: A 2 wing buzzer just does not have the lift needed to make this bait work properly.

A triple wing has the lift needed to make this bait pop up quickly if adjusted at the angle shown by the arrow. This needs to be bent down to make the angle of the blades create more lift.

Once you get one made, it will become clear about the angle down and wire the cordell rides on. If you don't bend the main wire down, the rear hooks sometimes gets caught on the wing wire.

I have used my baits for many years with no problems at all.

The retrieve on these baits should be steady but not too fast. And don't worry about missing the bite. If you make sure your hooks are sharp, you never miss on these.

I once looked at one of these under water in a pool and it remonds me of a small BG chasing something on top, it wiggles and chatters right under the triple wing which is too much for those bass to resist.

Mutiple shots over brush or structure no matter how deep should eventually bring them up.

These are killers around docks, concrete walls and other made made areas.

Sorry about the crappy drawing, I cut half the cordell off at the bottom but you get the idea.

Email me if you need pointers on this bait.

Edited to add: I just found a strike king triple wing buzzer at bass pro shops and they carry cordell spots too.....read what it says about the cordell spot, this is why I used it with this bait.

Robbie Roberson

Just tried this trick today but could not get it to run straight. I only had buzz baits with 2 blades instead of 3. Does this matter? Could you tell me how you tune it to run straight.

I thought I had read all posts, Dumb me. Your previous posts answers about 2 vs. 3 blades. But still need advise on tuning. This looks like a killer bait.

What part is not running true ? It is running left or right ?

If it runs left or right, then you need to bend top wire left or right a little bit to correct this, not much though.

2 blades is not good, it will work but not near as easy and you have to crank faster or have a higher gear ratio reel.






Robbie Roberson

OK then, how about this one to go with your new buzzer........ :p

Similar set up as above, except use a colorado spinner bait, shorten the "blade arm" and use the cordell spot under it.

Just make sure and "shorten" the blade arm or the cordell rear hooks will beat on blade turning.

This one is easy to make too........cut the lead off the spinnerbait hook area with side cutters........then bend wire down and put the split ring with cordell attached where the SB hook was.

These are great night lures and deep water thumpers........you can feel the blade thumping and the cordell rattling really well while "tuned" in at night.

Makes horrific stump bed patrollers, just use big line.......and again, tune this one so it will helicopter down using the colorado blade and when you pull it quickly it will rattle the cordell.

I used this bait 15 years ago.....it's a killer.



Robbie Roberson

RR, I'm not getting the full picture. You say cut off the lead, then straighten out the hook. Or, cut the wire in front of the lead head. If just trimming the lead off and straightening it out, do you then cut off the barb?

Sorry, cut the lead from the SB which has the SB hook imbedded.........once you get down to the SB hook, open the SB wire that holds the hook by using needle nose pliers and replace it with a cordell spot.

Then cut the upper SB arm off to add the colorado blade........this means the upper arm could be only an inch long total.

The best way to do this is to leave it a little long and try it to see if blade hits cordell butt, if it does, clip a quarter inch off and re-bend to add blade.

All you are doing is cutting lead off and adding a cordell on the bottom and shortening and adding a colorodo blade to the top..........a willow leaf blade will not work on upper arm because it is way too long.


Robbie Roberson.

The only triple wing I found at BPS is a "Junior" that I think would be too small. How about the double buzzers that they carry?

Dave, I saw some at Academy, but with hammered blades.

Would there be a difference in hammered blades when it comes to quickly rising to the top?

There should not be any problem with the hammered triple winged.

However, on the subject of double wings, I tested 2 wings many years ago and they just did not have the same lift it seemed.

Not exactly sure what the reason was but a 3 wing just popped out faster and rode on top easier with less cranking than a double wing.

Robbie Roberson.