I have an 8ac pond in Chester S.C. I attempted to fertilize the pond beginning in April 2008 but the algae has become a real problem.The algae has been identified as pithofora.Should I continue to fertilize or maybee go to aquashade for the rest of 2008? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thank you,Al Allison

Al welcome to PB. What is the visibility (depth) at this time and how does the water look? A pic would help. Do you know your alkalinity ? What was the result of the fertilizer ?

Craws and tilapia eat Pithophora . Some data provide that copper products do not work on Pithophora but some others like Reward and Aquathol will.

Wow sounds like the Chara in my ponds. Cutrine plus granular has absolutely NO EFFECT on it regardless at what stage of growth it is applied and the quantity.

For what it's worth I was told by a fish farmer that one algae starts to form fertilization to encourage phytoplankton is futile as it will only fuel the algae. I would at least get rid of the algae first.

ewest-Thanks for the response.Water is clear with visibly to two feet.Alkalinity is 80 and ph is 7.2 .Fertilizer created a minimum bloom.This is my third pond and I never experienced pithophora issue.I think I will try reward and then Aquashade.Any further advice? Thanks Al Allison

Cecil Baird1-Thanks for the response-Al Allison

Al I am not sure of the best approach. You are kind of caught in the middle between a fertilization approach and considering a starve the algae approach. They are on opposite ends of the spectrum. Do you know how dye works and its effects on the food chain/productivity ? There is a lot here on FA control. One concern I have is you have fertile water as a result of the prior application and you are thinking about cutting off the lights (sun). That may result in more nutrients at the pond bottom where FA starts. When the dye starts to fade you may get a very healthy crop of FA.

With 24 inches of visibility I would probably try to spot spray the FA mats and increase the fertility to get an 18 in bloom in hopes of achieving the same results as dye but with much better productivity. If you can do that you would be ahead. I could not make that judgment without seeing the water and knowing how the pond reacted historically.

gotta run , late for dinner. we treat it about once a week on client's lakes this time of year. Mix of liquid copper sulfate and reward will kill it just fine. Might have to treat twice to eradicate. If you want fish suggest not using dye. Treat it then fertilize to get vis down to 18 inches.

Greg- will you please supply a mix ratio of Reward and copper sulfate? How much of each one in each gallon of spray? What is the diluted concentration of the Reward that you use?

Bill all I have read is that CU products will not work on pithofora. Greg may know something I don't. I do think Reward will work as will other products.

Here is the info. As usual it is a mixed answer on the subject but I think we have the answer needed.

http://www.dnr.sc.gov/water/aquaff/pithalgae.html S.C. DNR

Ohio State University Fact Sheet
School of Natural Resources

http://ohioline.osu.edu/a-fact/0003.html This is a great link on FA
Copper-Resistant Algae
One form of filamentous algae, Pithophora, can be especially troublesome because it is resistant to normal applications of copper compounds. Although it is not widespread, scattered reports of Pithophora in Ohio ponds are received every year. If, after a normal treatment with copper sulfate, there is algae remaining that does not appear to be affected, it may be Pithophora. Positive identification can be made by sending a sample to the Plant and Pest Diagnostic Clinic at Ohio State University. Samples can be submitted directly to the clinic or through the county offices of Ohio State University Extension.

Pithophora is extremely difficult to control. Its unique cell wall structure and the tight clumping of filaments inhibit the penetration by copper. Additionally, large numbers of resilient spore-like bodies, called akinetes, germinate and provide a continuous source of new plants. Partial, short term control can usually be achieved with either of the following herbicide mixtures:

Ratio Application
Rate of Mixture
Cutrine Plus Liquid
and Diquat/Reward 1:1 2 gallons per acre-foot
Cutrine Plus Liquid
and Hydrothol 191 Liquid 2:1 1 gallon per acre-foot


Additionally, Cide-Kick, a nonionic spray adjuvant, should be added to the mixture at the rate of 1-2 gallons per surface-acre. This material acts as a cell wall penetrant to increase the effectiveness of the herbicides.

ok, this is what we do. Shawn Banks will tell you our mix works better for us in the SE than in the midwest because our water is so soft (see there is some advantage to haveing poor water quality)

Mix with a gallon of water:

8 ozs Ktea, Cutrine+, etc. (8% liquid copper)
4 ozs Reward
1 ozs surfactant

It will require couple of treatments.

This what come with expereiecne and the problem with blanket statement on how to mix BUT

we give a good mist on the pihtophora, you can see it at this rate lightly turn the alage blue. You do not have to hit it too hard but also if you spary one area and miss another it is not giong to kill missed area. You expect to miss some thus the reason for mutiple applicaitosn. THis combo wil safe quite a bit of money vs. Reward alone. Hope this helps.

Greg:

Thanks for the formula. The good part is this is just about what I have been using.

I keep forgetting to ask about suractant when I buy chemicals. What is a good one to use???

Years ago, when I was spraying my fruit trees for insect control I went to a plant nursery and tried to buy some. Their recommendation was to go to the grocery store and buy the cheapest pink dishwashing detergent I could and use it. It worked for apple trees, but I have been reluctant to use it with pond chemicals since I am afraid it might negate some of the potency of those expensive chemicals.

Bing

Bing

Well I did some research and I am able to answer my own question about a surfacant.

It seems Cide-Kick is the surfacant of choice for pond applications.

http://www.aquaticeco.com/search/0/cide-kick

Bing

I've never understood why surfactants aren't added to the formulas of all herbicides intended for surface application. Is it just a matter of the manufacturers wanting to camouflage the true cost or is there another reason?

Bing, Cide-Kick is the same surfactant that was recommend to me also. I would have posted that but I figuered it was better that you hear it from one of the local chemical professionals rather than a bean counter.

Jeff:

Thanks for your input. I know it is correct as it did not include any disclaimers such as:

JHAP is not a (INSERT SUBJECT MATTER HERE) expert and did not stay in a Holiday Inn (HOLIDAY IN EXPRESS PREFERRED) last night. Any advice give by JHAP should probably be ignored or ridiculed. The mere fact that you read JHAP's post and have considered what he has to say makes me question your ability to determine truth from dribble. Perhaps you should consult with someone that actually knows what they are talking about.

(I AM SO GRATELFUL TO JEFF FOR EVEN GIVING AN ANSWER THAT I WOULD DO WHATEVER HE SAID, EVEN IF I KNEW THAT HE WAS WRONG)

Bing

Thanks Bing. Some folks get annoyed when I post in their threads. I know it's hard to believe but I have actually been accused of hijacking a thread once or twice.

I'm being forced to revamp my disclaimer proceedures. My legal council, (Kanwe, Billem and When) have informed me that I need to add a disclaimer to my disclaimers that indicate that I may not have disclaimed all of the necessary information that needs disclaiming in my disclaimer. Unfortunately Pond Boss doesn't support anything less that 8 pt type which I use in my standard disclaimer so I'm not sure how to follow my disclaimer with a disclaimer using an even smaller disclaimer disclaimer print.

Oh and as a PS, becareful of blinding following any advice that I give. That can result in serious injury or at a minimum a nasty rash.

During last year's PB conference, when I thought the moderators weren't paying attention, I suggested that one forum member use lop eared rabbits as a forage base for LMB. I know, I know, the logic sounds great... they don't swim well so are easy prey for LMB and they breed, well, like rabbits.

I had to settle out of court with PETLER (People for the Eithical Treatment of Lop Eared Rabbits).

I see you are no longer using Dewey, Cheathem, & Howe.

I fired them after the Lop Eared Rabbit settlement.