I'm trying to find a supplier that makes a water control device (slide valve or something like that) that would attach to an 8" or 10" corrugated plastic drainage pipe. I checked with some of the PB suppliers, but my budget won't stand for paying in the neighborhood of $400 upwards to over $900 for one. If one that attaches to the pipe isn't available, I could build a concrete enclosure around the drainage pipe and incorporate a valve device in that concrete enclosure.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Here's my quandry:

In the times of high surface water (i.e. Spring time) the surface water drains from my neighbor's place into my pond thru that pipe, which is fine. The water will be high enough in the surrounding woods that it will completely cover that inlet pipe. Once the water level stabilizes, then starts to recede, I would like to close off that drain so that 18" or so of water doesn't drain back out of the pond. That top 18" of water bumps my pond size from 1 ac to approx 1 3/4 ac.

A flashboard system may be suitable.

http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthread...true#Post104014

Have you given any thought to an expanable rubber plug,like a rubber freeze plug?Just a thought.Personally,I'd spend 400 to double the size of my pond.Just my 2 cents,which as ussual aint worth it.

esshup,look here.Sorry,I dont know how to make it a link.Im lucky to copy and paste.Heck,Im doing good just to post.

http://webstore.petersenresources.com/143-6Castironbodyplugs.aspx

Tom G:

That might work!! I'll get in touch with them.

Rex:

When you drop off the fish you can look and give me some ideas. Heck, If a flashboard system would work, I don't even mind doing both, sort of a belt and suspenders type of thing. I don't know how good of a seal I could get on a flashboard system.

I built a concrete drop box around my 12 inch corrugated plastic drainage pipe that is 18 inches deep. I installed a 4 inch pvc pipe with screw on cap in the bottom of the concrete box. This allows me to drain off 18 inches of water from my upper pond to my lower primary pond might work for you.

Rocky:

I'm fuzzy on the plan for my situation. The water flows from my neighbor's place to my pond, going under a trail that was built up 24" or so from ground level, thru the plastic culvert. The water will stand in the area up to 18" deep and flow into the pond. Once the pond gets up to that 18" mark, it will go out my overflow pipe to the next neighbor down the line. Once the snow stops melting, and the ground thaws, the water will stop flowing and slowly seep into the ground, but in the process it will flow back out the pond thru the same culvert. The culvert is almost horizontal for it's whole 30' run, maybe having 4" fall during that 30'. I want to stop the water from running back out that culvert once it's in the pond. I also want to capture any water that starts running towards my pond once it reaches that culvert. This Spring, the water was about 6" above the top of that culvert.

It sounds like you just need to add a concrete drop box into the culvert on the opposite side of your pond. This will allow the water to flow in but not out. The water will remain at the leve l of the drop box. Assuming you have rights to that side of the trail. Also note it will increase the level of the water on the box side during runoff events. If you size the box big enough this will be minimal

You can get an 8 inch check valve from AES for under $200.00 Scott. (Not talking about a gate valve) I gave one away to one of the posters here. He used it to make a siphon to drain his pond.

if you plumb it right you should be able to slide an 8 inch pipe inside your 10 inch drainage pipe.

Gate valves tend to stick over time. I will not use one if there are other options.

I like the concrete option better because I'd rather not reduce the diameter of the pipe feeding the pond for 2 reasons:
1) The natural flow of the water during the wet season is thru my property, and the neighbor upstream is a nice guy. I'd hate to restrict the water, backing water up onto his property. As it is, with the 10" dia. pipe, his pole barn flooded twice this Spring. I ended up digging a 4' wide by 3' deep ditch around the pond and to the woods to let excess water run. The pond couldn't handle it all. I've since added a 12" dia. culvert for extra egress flow if needed. That pipe is a couple inched higher than the 10" primary egress culvert. (both are 90* standpipes in the pond) Think of the letter L laying with the long side down. The short side is the pond high water level.
2) With the sandy soil in the area, in minimal events I want to capture as much water as possible in a short amount of time. I'm going to have to look into a knife valve to build that concrete structure around, and tie that into the 10" culvert. PP=PPR

I wish that I'd used the galvanized culvert now, easier to find valves for it.

The culvert going into the pond is sticking into the pond by about 10', and it was tied down at the end to keep from floating. If we get another high water event like we had in 2009, once the water level stabilizes, I'll don waders and pick up the end of the culvert above the water in the pond to stop any back-flow. I'll get the valve this summer and concrete it in.

You mean check valves???

I was not advocating a gate valve. If your talking about a check valve I'm sure you could clean it with a long pole from time to time. You could also install it to be removable on either end of the pipe for cleaning.

Try looking at these flap gates: http://www.agridrain.com/valveproduct.asp?prodtype=204

There are lots of systems and designs to choose from. A simple one is a siphon.

check valve = flap gate.

I'll have to contact them and see how well they seal. That looks interesting and reasonably priced for what I want to accomplish.

Scott
I have two Agridrains at my place on the repro ponds. I am very pleased with their ease of use and the company has bent over backwards a couple times to verify my satisfaction when I had questions. Not sure I understand what you are tying to accomplish, but feel free to fire me up and we can discuss.

Thanks TJ. You'll hear from me tomorrow.

TJ,

I've been to Scot's pond and along with seepage issues he gets a good amount of water in the spring through a culvert pipe that he wants to hang on to. Trouble is it goes back out the same pipe when water levels drop on the other side with nothing to stop it. He was considering a gate valve but not only are they very expensive for a pipe that size (10 inch), I believe a check valve or flapgate would what he is looking for. (Cheaper too). It would allow water to flow in when the water is coming in, and when there is no longer any flow coming in, it would close keeping water from flowing out of the pond side.

A back-flow preventer (one way valve). We use them on our PVC siphons to make filling them easier. No where near as expensive as a metal valve. We have one on an 8 inch pipe.

Here is a link to a monk system
http://books.google.no/books?id=eXRbywIp...0system&f=false

Oldest way of doing the job, and still functional and in use around the world