Thought I would start here for advice. I just bought a 2005 L3710 Kubota tractor. Who here might help me out. Either let me know answers or where I might find them. thanks
email greg@lakework.com if you like

where can I get a manual?
Does most any front end loader work if retrofitted?
New ones are expesnive where can I find used loader?
What "Bush Hog" would you suggest I have always used 5' model but any good used one work if blades are sharp?
What maintainence is most important?
Do I need disk or harrow for food plot prep?
What other attachements would you suggest?
Augers work well?, what size for planting small sawtooth oaks, fruit trees?
What size disk for plowing up .5-5 acre food plots, need rake also, again any good websites to start looking for used attachements?

ok enough for now, just excited since first tractor purchase. Just gave Wyatt a ride he loved it. We will use the loader for lime, etc so company write off. ALso plan on using on KL land and side work on clients ponds as needed. Great deal $9500 and only 130 hours.

Greg, I am also a newbie tractor owner bought in anticipation of our small pond and a deal we could not pass up. I think that Eddie Walker is very knowledgeable - maybe drop him a line. Also check out http://www.tractorbynet.com. They have a lot of 'experts' on their discussion boards and lots you can search. I am sure you will find lots of help on here, too.

I got my technical manual off of ebay for $5.00 - you can get tech manuals and owner's manuals pretty readily for the green tractors, anyway. Best of luck. Be careful.

Greg I have a kubota and absolutely love it. I would reccomend that anyone that owns a tractor that is parked outside to try and keep the rats and mice out of it. For some reason they love to eat the wires and build nests under the hood. I like to keep bait boxes all around. I had a mouse that built a nest under the hood catch the tractor on fire and cause considerable damage. I got in the habit of always checking under the hood after that happened and last spring lifted up the hood and there was a nest bigger than anything I had ever seen. I was like what the heck! I put some gloves on and started pulling out wads of grass and straw when out jumped a big squirrel. It scared the crap out of me. I spent an hour pulling that stuff out including some baby squirrels. Lift the hood and check the oil and the hydraulic levels and change the oil every 100 hours. Good luck finding a used loader they are hard to find. I would stick with the same brand loader that the tractor is because the tractor will be rated for a certain loader size. The mower requires a lot of power and so be careful about getting one bigger than the tractor is rated for. The bush hog brand is excellent and so is rhino. Don't forget to keep grease in the gear drive on the mower.

Greg,

The website posted by Victor is a good one. You might also try http://www.tractorhouse.com I got rid of my International 484 last year and got a NH TC33D. I love it. When getting a loader, it might be worth it to get one that is easily removable and has quick exchange features on the business end. For instance, I can drop my bucket and pick up my pallet forks very quickly. This system is very similar to what you might find on a skid steer (e.g. bobcat).

There are lots of brands of "bush hogs" on the market. Make sure you look at the gear case and make sure it is heavy duty. Go to a dealer that has multiple brands and this feature will be obvious. Remember, if you buy quality, you'll only cry once.

I got a back-hoe attachment and have had a lot of fun with it and even made some money digging footers. I personally don't like power take-off driven augers ever since using hydraulic driven systems with reverse and pin-point accuracy but it beats using the alternative- manpower.

A great attachment to have around the farm is a box scraper. Works great to level out ruts, smooth over gravel, etc.

Wait until you see the cost associated with buying filters and fluids!!! I'm glad you're looking for a manual. They are priceless.

Unlike a 4-wheeler or car, make sure you don't run out of fuel. you'll only make that mistake once. Just make sure you always have some extra diesel with you and don't let the tractor run out before you add more.

Just be careful. I can tell you more stories than I care to about folks around here having horrible accidents. Just on Christmas Day, a friend of a friend (you know Paul) was pulling a log out of ditch. The tractor flipped over backwards....game over. In Sept, just 3 miles away from my farm a 4 year old boy got both his legs chopped off by a bush hog while riding with his grandparent. I'm not trying to discourage you, but be careful.

I'll check with some friends that have Kubotas to see if they have any resources worth passing on to you. I know this, everyone I know with a Kubota absolutely loves it.

Lastly, don't forget to check http://www.craigslist.com for used tractor implements. I've seen some awesome deals on that site.

If you get in a bind, give me a call. My employee Steve is a tractor genuis and he can talk you through anything. His blood pumps JD green but he'll help out a brother with orange.

What HP is the 3710? Is it a 4wd? Loaders are tough to use with 2wd. Diesel or gas? Do you have the needed hydraulics for a loader?

If diesel, make sure that you blow out the air cleaner filter(s) every 10 hours.

Either get the fluid put in the rear tires or get a lot of life insurance.

Yep, Tractorbynet can answer just about all of your questions about the loader.

I just tore up my mower. It is a Hico and I found out that they were junk.

The most important maintenance is a grease gun. Make sure you grease it every 10 hours. Get some extra grease zerts. You will need them.

Make sure that you have fluid put in the rear tires.

Get a disk AND a chisel. You will also need, maybe not immediately, a box blade with rippers.

You will also need a 16 ft, tandem axle trailer, to haul it around. Make sure it has loading ramps or get a welder to build some for you.

4WD makes a front end loader about 20 times more useful. ALWAYS keep the bucket low to the ground when loaded. Raise/lower it slowly when loaded, especially while moving. The first time you get the tractor rocking, you will understand why.

If 4WD, load all four tires with calcium chloride solution. If I were loading tires on a tractor for the first time, I think I would pay extra to be sure they had tubes in them, on the assumption that the rims would last longer this way. I will be getting a new set of rear rims on a couple of loaded tire tractors without tubes some ("Surprise!") time in the future and am not looking forward to it.

Grease all tractor and implement fittings for every major use occurrence. In the Summer I grease everything once per hayfield; since I started this, I have not had to rebuild any shafts with universal joints (a pain to fix and dangerous when they break in use).

NO RIDERS WHEN YOU ARE WORKING! You don't need to concentrate on a rider when you are bush hogging, plowing, etc. - you need to concentrate on the job at hand.

If you will be mowing rough, unimproved fields, strongly consider a mower (bush hog) with a "stump jumper". This is a big, round-bottomed center hub that the blades attach to. When you drive over a stump/big rock while mowing, the blades will flod out of the way and then the stump jumper lifts the mower up over the obstruction. You and the tractor get all shaken up (Fish Wife missed an earthquake while bush hogging once because she thought she had just mowed over a stump), but the obstacle DOES NOT stop everything abruptly (and break something).

If you have a gravel driveway, and box blade with ripper teeth is wonderful for maintenance. You can tear up and smooth the hole surface down for a few inches, eliminating potholes, washouts, and other problems. Since we got a box blade, our need to get new gravel has dropped to about 1/3 what is was before - we just re-dress the gravel a couple of times a year instead. Box blades are also great for fields, new lawns, riding arenas, and presumably ball fields and other places.

When something goes wrong in use, stop everything, lock the brakes, and wait for all parts to stop moving before investigating and attempting corrections. Don't let the tractor have a chance to roll over you, don't let attachments have a chance to grab you. Moving PTO shafts are extremely dangerous, especially if you have any loose clothing.

Wear long pants and boots while bush hogging. Your legs and ankles will thank you when a rock or a heavy stick is thrown forward into them by the mower. (It actually feels like pain rather than thanks, but they won't bleed or break nearly as often with protective clothing rather than bare skin receiving the impact.)

Hearing protectors!

Greg,IMHO

1)You just cant be careful enough on a tractor.After you get one end off the ground while working,you will realize this even before the "pucker" effect has passed on(sometimes the "pucker effect" has a tendancy to leave brown stais too!)
2) Learn to love your greasegun.An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.Buy GOOD grease.Cheap grease isnt worth taking the time to use it.
3) Mind your maintenance,keeping it serviced saves a lot of repairs,and trust me,"they aint cheap Bubba".
4) If you have a day to waste,run out of fuel,thats always good for a wasted day.
5)Dont operate with low tires,thats a good way to roll it over.
Now go grease your tractor,ck the fluids and have a nice safe day.
By the way,does it have a beerholder?I had to bolt a piece of 4" pcv pipe on mine.

Greg - I second the recomendation to spend some time at Tractorbynet. You should be able to get all your answers over there. I spent quite a bit of time at TBN before making purchases of all our equipment(tractors and attachments).

I bought my service manuals from Carver Equipment a few years back.

I'm using 3 Kubotas a L3830, a BX22 and a BX1800 at my place and my parent's place. Went with Kubota loaders/backhoe because they match....not just fit . The attachments I'm content with are box blade, landscape rake, rotary cutter, rototiller, pallet forks and rear grader blade. I went with Rhino brand equipment with the exception of the rototiller being a Howard. I found Rhino and Howard are a little more expensive than most of the common brand names but their specs and resulting durability justified the additional cost for me.

You should be good to go with the Kubota.....I looked at all the colors without any bias and Kubota just fit. I haven't looked back!!

Chuck

ETA: As Tom mentioned......Grease should become your and your tractor's best friend

I really agree on getting tubes in tires. However, even if you do, I'd suggest using something other than calcium chloride. It is quite corrosive. I've got RimGuard in mine. It is made from beets. In my last tractor, the tires were filled with automotive window washer cleaner (winter version). Some people use RV/Boat antifreeze -- don't use automotive anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) in case you puncture a tire. It can poison a well, or your animals. Some dealers also have some safe propylene glycol mixes.

Ken

I don't know anything about tractors so I'll offer no advice here.

I will say this however, using beets to fill tractor rims is one of the best use of beets that I've ever heard of. Now if we can only find an alternative use of brussel sprouts.

Oh and congratulations Greg!

Man where do I start you guys are great.Thanks so much for taking the time in helping me out. I will be safe and respect this machine. I have a skid steer (‘83 New Holland) and when picking up big stumps and slamming them to ground to get dirt off flipped it ‘bout soiled myself. Lesson learned about safety.

I will make sure to get good grease and do that regurally. I will change oil and blow out air filter. We ran out of diesel yesterday when picking it up. I had to bleed the lines going into spark plugs. Nice start to getting it. I have a duel axle trailer and it worked but would not use it for long distance. L3710 is older version of the 3830 so chuck basically same tractor. Dave it is 37 HP, diesel and will run a loader.
Thanks for websites. Thanks for attachment advice. I will take the time to get quality attachments. I do plan on used vs. new. Still curious your thoughts on what size harrows, chisel, disk for breaking ground on 0.5 to 5 acre food plots?
Also I do not get it on fluid in tires? What is that for? James had mice under my 4 wheeler seat cut wires so thanks I will be on lookout for that. I only drove Wyatt on driveway did not get over 5 mph and he will not be with me on working assignments, thanks for advice. Shawn is Paul ok on roll over?

Greg,

A while back we had another thread that had quite a bit of good tractor info:

Tractor Poll

As for the liquid in the tires, it adds a lot of stability and assists with traction. If you've got a loader on a tractor, it really helps with keeping the back end on the ground, even if you have a good sized implement or counterweight on the 3-point hitch.

Ken

thanks Ken I had not noticed the old thread. I got some reading to do. Ok I get it its for weight I had no idea.

Greg, you've gotten a lot of good advice here. The plow & harrow questions depend on whether they are 3-point or draw type. Personally I like draw type. You can pull wider equip than you can lift. Generally, one shank on plow per 10 HP, so for yours a 3 shank plow. The harrow I would say a 5-8' depending on hook up. Same on the mower specs. The advantage of a 3-point mower is you can turn sharper & go around trees easier & go across small creeks etc that you can't with a pull type. A pull type will allow you to mow with a wider mower & they do a better job of cutting.

Cat:

Calcium Chloride solution is indeed a corrosive PITA.

JHAP:

If I loaded them with bacon grease, would you be a tire biter?

thanks david I have some homework don't even know diff in pull or 3 point. Theo yes I think Jeff would be tire biter then.

Greg, one other thing. You mentioned food plots. If you believe you will be doing this season after season or possibly planting grass seed with any regularity, then a cultipacker would be a good piece of equipment to buy. I bought mine used at auction for $1000.00 in real good shape. Suggest you not buy a USED front end loader! Replacing the hydraulic cylinders is very expensive. If the rod is bent just a little or nicked up then they can't be fixed with new seals.

Watch out for soft dirt.

Chris I will not try to repeat. I will be doign food plots txice per year in each plot. I have a cultipacker on my 4 wheeler already. I hope to actually plant up to 10 acres in soybeans or corn but still working on local farmer doing this as coop.

Kubotas are awesome tractors. I have a 4wd 47hp one with FEL myself. Great tractor.

You've already gotten some fantastic advice, so no need to repeat it. However, I'll add one extra thing. NEVER EVER leave the keys in it, no matter what. Even if you are going to come right back to the tractor. Kids (and even some adults) have an overpowering curiosity with tractors and can quickly get into trouble, hurt or even killed in mere seconds. They are great tools in the right hands and deadly in the wrong ones.

Greg,

This thread may also have a few good tidbits on what implements you might want. My dad has a Kubota and absolutely LOVES it.

http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=97624&fpart=1

Greg, my JD is a 39HP diesel 4wd. I am comfortable with 6 ft. equipment.

LOL, I like JHAP's sentiments regarding the beets.

My tractor used to run out of fuel every time I cut it off if it sat over night. Got pretty good at bleeding everything to get it started. I guess I finally found the leak that was causing the problem.
Greg since you'll be using it alot around ponds, watch out for muskrat dens or any hidden low place in dense cover especially with a load in the bucket. Try not to drive horizontal too close to the water or on too steep a grade. Approach the grade or water perpendicular. That way if something caves in you'll just get stuck which is much better than having a tractor on top of you esp. under water. When things go haywire on a tractor it usually happens fast.

The 2 most important items for food plots is a sprayer (easy to build yourself) & a seed drill. With those you can eliminate all the plowing & disking & have great food plots even on the side of a hill without erosion.

You should never play around with bacon or bacon grease, that's how people get hurt. Besides what's so unusual about biting the tires. Heck my dad taught me from a young age, son, he said, when your're buying a used car, always check under the hood and bite the tires.

The only advice I can give is to get 4wd. I have a 60hp 2wd that cant dig with the FEL as well as my neighbors 25hp 4wd. Mine moves dirt fine but sucks at digging. My next tractor will be in the 45hp range with 4wd and some type of shuttle shift.

Maybe you missed heard him and he said 'kick' the tires dork.

dude !....

I've got a 30hp 4WD Kubota BX7800 with a FEL, 6' Woods Brush Bull mower and a 5' tiller. The PTO is 22hp and it drives the mower great. The tiller can put in a real nice food plot and you won't need to buy as many implements. Depends what you want to do. I've got a great 1 acre food plot that looks like a golf course made out of clover.

I didn't put anything in my tires, but I leave the 400 pound tiller on back for ballast all the time. I need to get the JD ballast box so I don't ding up the tiller too much though.

Keep the ROPS (rollover protection) up and your seatbelt on. I haven't flipped it over yet, but man I've come dang close too many times working around the lake moving logs, running over stumps and holes.

That's just crazy talk ceadmin, how are you going to determine the side wall flexibility, tread pattern, percentage of tread remaining and chemical composition of tires by kicking them.

Did he call me Dork???? Note to self, research ceadmin's gps coordinates for future Deathstar activities.

I should have taken my own advice..I got stuck big as snot yesterday.

I have not bought anything yet but the advice has been great thanks again. I'm headed out today or tommorrow to tractor dealer to see what is avail and now i know what to ask and not look like such a dummy.

Pay attention to what SGT911 says regarding 4wd and loaders. BTW Sarge, have u ever used the loader to get yourself unstuck?

A tractor without 4wd is only half a tractor. Without 4wd you are really handicapped when trying to use the loader.

Oh yeah, get farm tires; not turf tires. I fell for that junk about the turf tires not leaving as big of an imprint. However, when I added the fluid to the rear tires, I make a bigger imprint(mess).

Take Wendy with you so you won't feel compelled to lie to her about it. A tractor place North of Fort Worth has this sign:

YOUR WIFE CALLED AND SAID IT WOULD BE OK

Mucho Importando, DD.

Not turf tires, not industrial tires - Ag/Farm tires only.

I need to post a pic for you guys. It has 4wd and has ag/farm tires I do believe. I knew these requirements ogign in and woudl not have bought it otherwise. At this point it is free. The bank has not contacted me at all about payment.

The best welder, politics, religion -- and tractor tires sure can start a spirited discussion.

Three-and-a-half years ago I bought a new tractor with industrial (R4) tires. Years ago I'd had one tractor with turfs (R3s) that I quickly changed to AG (R1) tires. Every other tractor I've owned, in more than the last 40 years, had AG tires.

But, I absolutely love the industrial tires on my 4WD tractor. Now, I don't use a lot of ground engaging equipment, like a plow or disk. But for bushhogging, log skidding, grading, landscaping, and a lot of other things, they are fantastic. They are wider and more buoyant than ags. They don't tear up the damp/wet areas around my pond, they don't leave big ruts in the woods when I'm logging. When we get a lot of snow, I have chains for the rear tires -- but, I needed them even with AG tires when we got lots of snow.

So, don't completely discount industrial tires.



R3/G2 Turf - R1 Agricultural - R4 Industrial (R2 has a modified bar tread, but is similar to R1)

On the subject of tires..another option for the front tires is the use of used aircraft tires.. this can be a good idea if your primary tractor use is that of a front end loader.. This would apply to 2WD tractors though...du

Cat, my prior boss has turf tires on one tractor and industrial tires on his other tractor, and reports he can't take either one of them anywhere if it's wet or snowy.

He has some other problems too, though, so I guess I can't necessarily blame the tires.

Your old boss wouldn't have had any problem with this little fella. It was one of my orphan restoration projects. I didn't need a rototiller when I had this tractor. Wherever I drove, the paddle-wheel ag tires tore up the turf pretty good.





In the winter I would turn the front tires backward and put chains on them. I could push a lot of snow up our steep driveway, using a 6-foot rear blade. Plus, it didn't hurt that front bumper was filled with chunks of lead.

Some advice Greg hasn't gotten yet:

With a 4WD tractor, turn off the 4WD when it isn't needed (e.g. not using the FEL, ground is dry, and especially when travelling on pavement). This will save a lot of tread on the front tires, to have them free-wheeling.

My normal state for 4WD is OFF in the Summer, unless using the FEL, and ON in the Winter, unless driving on pavement.

Thanks Theo. I hadn't thought of that.

Theo that was my thinking kinda like I treat my 4 wheeler. Only put in 4wd when I need it. Leaving right now to go to tractor place.

http://www.theplotmaster.com/400_tractor.html
I'm about to order this. I'm a dealer and have sold a few atv units over the years. I have done my homework and think this will replace several implements. I plan on getting a "bushhog" as well. I found a good heavy duty 5 foot model bushhog squealer 600 for $500. Whatcha think?

I don't like 3-pt disc. I have broken a few bolts off because of the pressure put on the swing arms. The next one I get will be a hitch pull with hydraulic lift wheels

Greg, the plotmaster concept is good. The quality of the materials & how you handle your equipment will determine longevity. If you drive fast,turn sharp, go over humps too aggressively, then you equipment will break. The other issue I have with it is whether it's heavy enough to break up clayee soils. I rather doubt it is, and will require some kind of plowing first. I planted 70 acres of native grass a couple of years ago & found I needed the weight & mass of separate implements to do the job right. If your tilling mostly sandy soils, then it may be fine... It's your money, but as soon as you leave John Deere and Rhino mowers, well, its not going to be pretty, unless you are cutting only grass over smooth surfaces,ie:no small trees, heavy brush etc..The gear boxes on $500.00 5' mowers are very light, the metal frame, heck the whole thing is IMHO too light. A good used JD 5' cutter is $1000.00....du

Esoteric tractor advice #17: Support the third (upper) point on your bush hog with a short length of log chain rather than a fixed length arm (one can put screwable links of appropriate size on each end of the chain to attach to). This allows it to flex upward when you take it over a high spot, eliminating strain on the third point and bush hog.

Spoken like a Engineer. So it was spoken, so let it be

I still say a drill would do you better.

Greg, I'm kinda like David U. I'm not sure that thingey is heavy duty enough to be used by a tractor. Maybe a 4 wheeler but not a tractor. Just my opinion.

Ric grain drill is good but I have not seen them succedd in dirt that has hard pan. You guys might be right about plotmaster not being heavy duty enough, but they have reenginerred this thing. It is 1000 lbs and I have seen it demoed in hard dirt it as good if not better than offset disk harrows.The seeder is awesome.

On mower it is supposed to cut 2 inch sapings. This is about what I need it to do. Also I figure for $500 I can get my feet wet on what I need for sure. It is a $1,500 mower new, probably not JD standards but not lightweight job either.

Theo when I get this thing I will get you to explain your post. I have to put my hands on things to understnad.
Yoda told me "kind of the opposite of engineer you are"

A picture I could take, if needed it is.

Hey Greg, JD mowers aren't all that great.

Yes please.

When looking for a tractor and attachments a couple of years ago I found that anything with green paint (JD) pushed the price up. I wound up with an orange tractor and backhoe (Kubota), red mower (Bush Hog) and yellow post hole digger (Land Pride). Each was every bit as good, if not better, than JD.

Hmmm... this could turn into a Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge truck thing! Greg, what I tried to say was that the "off brand" implements & tractors are made with lesser materials. If the equipment is going to be used sparingly, then they will suffice and the lesser costs may pay dividends. I've owned every major brand of tractor and believe they are all good. JD is higher in cost. The trade in factor is higher for them, so it may balance out. IMHO, the parts support for JD is the best in the business.










I also farm as a part-time business and have found over the last 29 years that quality materials hold up well to daily use. Like I said, the other major brands are just fine, but would stay away from the "cheapo" stuff....du

You must bleed green & yellow, david.

Oh, and I have a Toyota Tundra too.

Impressive DU!

Sorry RobA, no slight intended...

I honestly don't believe there is a whole lot of difference in quality between the bigger names in tractors.

More importantly, you should focus on buying a brand that has a strong dealer network in your area. Being able to get parts and/or service the same or next day when you are in the middle of a major project is EXTREMELY important.

Theo is right about those arms, here's a pic of my Woods Brushbull 60. The thing will chew through a 3" oak tree, but those arms take a beating with the irregular ground around my pond. I broke one this summer. Part of the problem was I had it connected to a quick hitch. I've since learned that's not a good idea because the arms wind up flexing in and out instead of the top link pivoting. Chains solve that problem.



The plotmaster also did a great job on establishing my CRP. I rented it from the local soil & water conservation dept for $25 and used it all day then planted a food plot.

Before you buy a tractor go on Tractorbynet.com and read, read, read. I learned a lot of stuff to avoid on that site when I bought mine. I think the folks on that site literally saved me several thousand dollars and helped avoid me getting something that wouldn't do the job for me.

Consider a tiller instead of a disc. I find that for food plots it creates a much nicer bed than a disc. It is slower to till than disc but the results save time later. I've found that an inexpensive way to do food plots is to use a tiller to prepare, a broadcast spreader to fertilize and seed, and a drag harrow to cover the seeds. Yes, this equipment may not do as good a job as if you had a grain drill but you will need a broadcast spreader anyway and a drag harrow is a lot cheaper than a grain drill or row seeder. I broadcast spread everything I plant from clover to corn. For small plots .5 acre or less I might just sow by hand or for clover seed I use one of the hand held crank spreaders. Probably only takes 20 minutes. It works fine, you don't need to plant anything in rows. You just need to figure out how to spread the right amount of seed per acre. I built a sprayer from parts I bought from Northern tool that I use to apply chemicals when needed.

Your right on there bz, I've got a Caroni 1400 and it does the trick. I move slower, but I don't have to take multiple passes with different equipment. I used the plotmaster because I had to plant 5.5 acres. When I did my 1 acre food plot later in the year, I used the tiller, push behind broadcaster with seeds then fertilizer, then drug a tree top around to get the seeds to germinate.

Greg, I didn't read where anybody mentioned this, but I always lower any implement all the way to the ground when I shut my tractors down, including front end loader. Kids will push any and all levers when on the non-running tractor and can make hydraulic equipment go down. Just a thought.
cody

Good practice, cody. I was taught to do that to relieve the stress on hydraulic lines; you have a better reason.

cody thanks

cs smith and Theo.. those are both good reasons to do the same thing Good Advice!!...du

Another idea is to lower them slowly and gently. I busted a seeder gear housing by dropping it too rapidly.

Lots of great info here guys, all I can add is i Use a Kubota 2550, 29HP, Diesel, 4x4 with a FEL. I love it bought it for a good deal with high hrs on it and noticed some clutch slipping so I replaced that ( had a friend do it for $800) now it will spin all four tires playing tug o war with mature oak trees.... I use a 5ft bush hog on our horse pastures with no problem. Last tidbit is if you get a newer tractor with a front end loader, be sure to get one with a quick disconect, takes 5 minutes to hook up or remove the loader which is nice for mowing, bushhogging around trees, that loader always seems to reach out and snag trees when I go by them....;^)
Mor eloader advice, if you want to dig vs move dirt, then get the bucket with digging spurs on it. Around the farm type of use, be sure to get a buket with chain hooks inside the top of the bucket or get one welded to it so you can use a chain to lift things, very handy.
Tractor on baby!!
Salmonid