I've read lots about aeration and I have seen both ways, some of you aerate all year and most don't. My pond is 1 acre, with depths of 12' deep, some humps and some shallows. My water temps are 59 across the surface of the pond, need a temp gage with a probe I can drop down to test the temp. Thank you guys for the insights!
I tend to start dropping aeration off once daytime air temps drop below water temps 18 inches below the surface.
My thought is...once you start cooling the pond water off on the fall/winter...stop and let it cool off naturally. I like to shut it off slowly over the course of a weeks or two.
What is your bio loading? Temp is not the only reason to turn off aeration.
Granted, 60 degree water can hold a lot more O2 than 95 degree water, but know your water and what is in it before changing things. I agree with having the change happen over time. Experts Like Bill, Bob, and Eric will be able to tell you the proper way and time, if you give them the information about your water and what is in it.
I have only tested the water with the 16 in 1 test strips, a PH Meter and a Total Water Quality meter. I am waiting on my soil samples results and I am bringing in a water sample for analyst, just haven't got it turned in yet. I will post the labs when I get them. Thank you for your help! I didn't know a pond was so demanding to get fish to bite consistently.
As my surface temperatures dropped down to around 60 I changed my aeration to mid-day only for several weeks then shut it off. Once the air temperature got down to around freezing at night I did not want to be additionally cooling the water, so just ran it during the day (after the water got cool enough to not worry about low DO).
I'm not saying that is the right way to do it. Just the way I did it. If we get a real warm spell I may turn it back on for a few hours a day but warmth has seemed to escape us this fall.
Great info. We have had several mornings below freezing down here in La, very briefly, but my water temps are now at 58, I will pull the plug on the aireator til spring starts to warm up. Thanks for helping me to understand my pond!
I was just about to ask this same question when I came across this thread. I'd like to put a little spin on it now.
When I switched to running my bottom diffuser I slowly built up to running 24/7 once air temps weren't trying to boil the pond. My main reason for running constantly wasn't concern as much over O2 levels as it is over nutrient load. My reading has lead me to understand that running aeration helps to reduce that load by providing O2 for decomposition and allowing those nutrients to be dispelled into the atmosphere thru gases. If I'm wrong, please correct my thinking here.
My question is...how much affect does aeration actually have on reducing nutrients?
I relinquish to the experts.
I am aerating in the afternoons, unless a norther is blowing in. Expecting I am moderating temperature and providing oxygen, which I believe helps oxidize wastes and leaves, and which is necessary to bacteria consuming waste and organic debris. I also have a heavy fish load in my 1/10 acre pond. For that I apply some supplemental bacteria and enzymes. (not as much as recommended because of cost) At the end of summer I de-mucked the pond and pumped nothing but black mud out of the deepest over about two hours...no debris after 2 1/2 years.
My pond is about the same size as yours Danny, at 11 ft in the middle. I added bacteria/ enzymes at the end of summer as well.
There was a brief period of cold where I shut the system off completely due to 20* weather and within a couple days I had a pea green film over the entire pond. I doubt it could be anything but BGA. That is my major concern due to having critters running the yard during the day.
I was just about to ask this same question when I came across this thread. I'd like to put a little spin on it now.
When I switched to running my bottom diffuser I slowly built up to running 24/7 once air temps weren't trying to boil the pond. My main reason for running constantly wasn't concern as much over O2 levels as it is over nutrient load. My reading has lead me to understand that running aeration helps to reduce that load by providing O2 for decomposition and allowing those nutrients to be dispelled into the atmosphere thru gases. If I'm wrong, please correct my thinking here.
My question is...how much affect does aeration actually have on reducing nutrients?
I relinquish to the experts.
I'm not an expert and will also be interested in their comments. My only comment is that waste water ponds do lots of aereation so I am going to say that doing so helps decompose the waste. I can't see why it would not help with nutrient load in a recreational pond.
Time will tell, John. I've shut it down yesterday due to multiple days of cold and rain. I hope someone with knowledge will weigh in.
The pond got another good flush on Saturday and is going out the pipe again today and will be again tomorrow. Youd think with over 60" of rain last year, I wouldn't have a nutrient issue. All the runoff comes off my neighbor's yard and he doesnt do anything but mow it. And it all gets filtered by thick grass and trees before it enters the pond.
Very much interested in same topic. Have small pond like you are and wondering if I can kill with aeration because of too much water turn over.
Well, after a couple of months without my diffusers running, I can say that I have a lot of grass growing off the bottom, even in the 10' depths. My Film algae has returned as well. Water temps are at 61, on the surface. I hadn't thought about the diffuser helping to decompose the waste. I don't have an algae bloom, water is way too clear. Fish load is pretty heavy, too many white crappie, caught a few nice bass over the winter, 3 to 5 #'ers. Crappie are very thin.
If you don't start 'er up now, when you do you will have to use the initial start-up schedule.