Sorry for another Aqua Pro thread, but rather than search old topics this one needs a life of its own.

What is Aqua Pro's position on the negative feedback and complaints? I have two that I am not satisfied with. I have replaced the timers on several occasions. Aqua Pro has been good about sending new timers, but the feeders need to be checked on a daily basis for performance. Between bad timers and hopper jams I spend my time tossing feed to the fish. Feeding the Aqua Max is a total waste of time. It immediately jams the feeder.

If anyone here has had positive results with Aqua Pro fixing these problems for good, please let me know. If not, I'll be glad to contact the company for those of us with issues.

I just had the timer go out on an ADF25 I bought in June. Pretty annoying.

This is a subject talked about with gret lengths. basically they had issues and contineud to have bad timers sentout. Then earlyier this year apperaed to have fixed th issue with new style timers. Search aquapro and you should see lot of discussion.

Walt did the one you bought in June have the new timer?

I bought mine new in June from Native Outdoors. That's all I know. That and the fact it's already crapped out after less than six months of operation.

I should add that in July I ordered a second feeder of the same model, and that one arrived with a bad timer. I had already noticed that the feeder didn't throw the food well, as in I have to set it to a twenty-second cycle to throw the same amount of food the other feeders I use throw in six seconds, so I just asked Native if I could return the whole unit and get a different brand. I got the Moultrie 6-gallon feeder, which I have not enjoyed due to its less-than-great design that requires one to remove a cover at the bottom of the unit whenever one wishes to test it or reset feeding times, and the cover does not fit well over the wires leading to the solar panel so each refilling - which is a weekly event for me in the summer since it holds less than twenty-five pounds of food - is a brand new adventure...I haven't been able to use the test function for months because the unit drops a lot of food right at its base such that it has to be positioned directly over the water, and the last time I tried taking the cover off without moving the feeder back away from the water's edge the wing nut that keeps the control-box cover on fell into the pond and sank into six feet of water, so the only way I can make sure the feeder is still working properly is to re-set a feeding time for a couple minutes after when I'm refilling it, but then there's the adventure of whether or not I'll be able to get the poorly-fitting cover back over the wires without knocking the clips off the posts and get the feeder back into place over the water before the feeder goes off and throws food all over the raft and bank...Truly a horrible design in my opinion. I have two of the 30-gallon Moultries running on a large lake I'm managing; the owner bought them on my recommendation in July; and the timer has already gone out on one.

So I will never, ever again buy a cheapo feeder. I've got three of the Aquapro ADF75's, their more expensive feeder, running on three different BOW's and they won't even throw Aquamax 600. I'm trying the Moultrie "commercial-grade" model at the moment on another pond, just because it's still less than half as expensive as a TH or Sweeney, but if Sweeney or TH ever came out with a feeder under $400, I'd never buy another Aquapro or Moultrie.

Is that the feedcaster that you are talking about?

I had the motor that opens the hopper go out on mine. Haven't got around to getting a new one yet. When I called Moultrie they said they wanted me to send the old motor in to see what the problem was. The lady I talked to couldn't even give me a price for a replacement when I called.

Yes, it's the feedcaster, the standing one with the metal body. If the motor goes out (or anything else) my association with Moultrie products will be decidedly in past tense.

I would encourage whomever is facing issues to contact AP directly - my experience with the 75 has been satisfactory to date and I know they care a lot about their customers from the feedback I've seen [George, etc]. My 75 broadcasts 600 and 500 mixed just fine...maybe I got lucky. I sure hate to see guys going thru these issues...would be nice to think an affordable feeder could also be functional...maybe I'm just dreaming.

My AP is probably 4 years old and other than replacing the battery, and feeding too much 500 (a reducing plate fixed the problem - Thanks Greg!) I haven't had any problems with 500 or 600.

If AP ADF 75 continues jam problems, switch to AQMX 500 or mix with 600.
AP customer service has been outstanding in my experience.


My TH has performed well after initial jam problems and if you want to spend the extra bucks - go for it.

I feed 500 in them. My point was that I would like to be feeding 600, so the bluegill get twice as much per bite, but do not have the option due to the feeder. I tried mixing and even that resulted in an immediate jam.

+1

And honestly, a 600 pellet is more like 4-5 times the volume of 500 pellet.

Agreed, Theo - I just didn't have the exact dimensions in front of me and wanted to not exaggerate.

In a few weeks I am going to try just 600 in one 75D for the HSB.

You'll probably want to check it very shortly after filling it with the 600, as in the next day, unless you want your HSB going hungry.

I will test it repeatedly with only a little food in it. It is a chore to empty one that is even half full.

I have two AP 75's. Neither one will throw the 600. I agree that customer service has been attentive, but if the feeders don't work properly, or at all, being friendly and sending out new timers isn't really customer service. A full refund would be nice. Or an AP feeder that actually works.

As someone who has been in the bulk material industry for 30 years, with LOTS of experience in bridging and ratholing within silo's, hoppers..etc, I can't seem to find any design drawings, internal operation or anything an engineer would appreciate to read on the AP feeders. I did find one small caption indicating the side wall slope on the AP is 45 degree's, which is considerably different then our standard 60 degree hopper walls. This would indicate they don't feel bridging is an issue, OK.
CEMA standards for an opening from a cone needs to be at least three times wider then the largest particule of material. Meaning that three particules, horizontally in line, need to be able to easily fit through the outlet opening. IS this the case with this feeder??, I can't tell, no drawings, nothing, nada. I am familiar with the Feed, as I use it, but in a Small moultrie feeder, and beleive that the surface tension on the pellets is very course, allowing for easy bridging and jamming.

Ok Ken you wnet over my head but many of the cheaper feeders do not address this isuue you bring up. I do belieiv the opening is much larger than three times the size of the pellet. Mositure I feel is critical consideration as well. This is why a powerful motor combined with the opening size if important to having a well functioning fish feeder. MUCH diff than slinging hard corn

Ken:

Thanks for the info. I put one ADF75 in storage yesterday for the winter, so it will be easy to measure the opening. Check back later this evening for the answer.

Were you able to measure the opening? There is clearly something wrong. Mine jams on 600 every time it throws food.

Yup, sorry. The opening in my feeder is a 1 3/4" dia. circle. I also measured the depth to the spin plate, and the plate is 1/2" below the opening in the bottom of the hopper. That's the 1 3/4" dia. opening.

Safe to say that's the problem?

If you're referring to the opening being at least 3x the pellet size as the problem, then no, that isn't the problem because the AM 600 pellets are roughly 1/4" diameter.

Would the spin plate be too close to the hopper?

I have been racking my brains out to come up with some of the tricks we have used in the past to get material moving in a silo/hopper, and to do it cheaply and easily. From the sound of what the guys are saying, the opening is more then enough to discount particule binding/lodging in the opening. But, it's happening, so considerations are:
Moisture (As Greg says) and possibly exotheric (spelling is terrible, but basicaly, builds up heat): Since this material is hydroscopic, it's going to attract moisture, like lime does. Moisture is going to expand the particule and really increase the surface tension. This allows the material to actually hold it's self up.
Wall friction: When we work with difficult to move material, we do two things, (1) line the hopper walls with Stainless Steel, (2) Provide minimum 60 degree slope to the come. These two things effectivily prevent the material from sticking to hopper walls, along with the steep slope, prevents bridging.
We use vibrators and air cannons to also help us when necessary.
Corrictive actions for moisture are to make sure that internal temperature of hopper is the same as outside temperature. Make sure you have air circulation in the hopper, that is critical. Drill holes (which is what I did on my little moultries) in the underside. If this material is somewhat exotheric, heat will build up, and the cool outside temperature will create moisture in the hopper. You'll never get the material out if that happens. Ok, I'm done for a while.

I think your suggestions are valid. On my ADF75, portions of the lower part of the hopper are coated with a tarry like substance, which I think they use for rustproofing and as a sealer. The actual bottom of the hopper is flat, the sides don't end at the opening. If I can, I'll take pics of inside the ADF75. (don't know what the roads will be like tomorrow - the unit is 2 miles away)

Possible, but probably not. Would be a good test to see though. I would try to lower the spin plate while a jam was occuring. This may be simplier said then done though. If the material starts to flow, then you would know that the hopper and material are just not setup/designed correctly and right on the edge of plugging. If it did flow, you would more then likely see ratholing, where the material flows only from the middle of the pile and the sides fold in. This is the age old issue of first in, last out. This would indicate the hopper walls are to resistive (carbon steel vereses stainless steel) to material flow, along with shallow walls, not enough slope.

The bottom line for me is I own two Aqua Pro feeders and both constantly jam. I can deal with replacing timers, which I've done on three occasions, but the jams are tough to deal with. Its disheartening to visit the pond after a week away to find the feeders have been jammed all week.

I understand the frustration. The change in timers fixed my problems. Call Feederman with AP and ask. The times I used 600 the jam appeared to be caused by the feed being to big (just the wrong size) and getting caught between the bottom of the spinner (thrower)and the port opening. When the wheel jams the opening (wheel area aka port aka the openig on the front of the feeder) fills with food and the wheel will no longer turn. A classic mechanical jam and not a motor , opening size , hopper or timer problem.

Mine's been down for 3-4 months. When I call AquaPro, he refers me to the retailer, NaturalOutdoors. When I call the NaturalOutdoors, they refers me to AquPro! I'm going back to hand feeding. It's not as regular, but far more reliable in the long run!

Well that doesn't sound like a good example of customer service. Sorry to hear about your feeder issues Bobad.

I'd like to get a clarification from some of the people that are having jamming problems. Is the blockage stemming from feed not coming out of the hopper, or actually plugging somewhere further past that? What feed is causing the problem? I do notice the "ratholing" problem that Ken explains in his previous post, and I have had a plugging problem with generic food not flowing out of the hopper (pellet size too big and bridging the hole). The flip side is I've had too much food coming out at once even on the lowest setting (AquaMax 500) and Greg Grimes sent me some block-off plates. Those reduced the hole in the bottom of the hopper so I could feed a reasonable amount of AM 500 instead of 2#-3# at a time. IIRC, I enlarged the hole in the block-off plate to 7/8" and that seems to be a good size for the AM 500 for my application.

Well, to me, it's obviously the feed manufacturers fault. They should make the feed round instead of cube shaped(at least my larger feed is cube shaped.)

Seriously, I agree with Ewest's example, but not with the accessment that the feed is too big. The vertical impeller blades pass too far away from the feed tube housing, thus different sized feeds jam between the plastic and the metal spinner, dependent upon how the individual particles are oriented upon close proximity and contact with the spinner. There will never be a fix with all the customer service in the world; only be redesign.
Trying to mix your own sizes, ie, 3/16 and 1/4 is the worst thing you can try to do. (still trying to save up for TH, donations accepted.

You guys continue to make my hand feeding seem good, tendonitis and all.

And if you continue experiencing food jamming while hand feeding, may I suggest two "Advil" to assist.

In the words of (of wait no politics mentioned here).
'If you put lipstick on a pig it is still a pig."

To quote my earlier post: (FEEDERS)

Has anyone else noticed that virtually every post on this subject gets into the many, many problems people have with virtually every feeder except the Cadillac and the Lexus.

Bing

I personally don't understand why the Cadillac and Lexus companies (Sweeney and Texas Hunter, ahem) don't make a feeder just a little closer to the price range of the cheapos. Look at how many more people bought Beamers and Mercedes once those companies came out with downsized, cheaper (relatively) models.

I think if either company referenced above came out with a standing directional feeder in the $300 price range, Aquapro, Moultrie, OnTime, etc. would go out of business within a year. At the very least, I think Sweeney or TH would make a lot of money. (And a lot of us that can't afford them now would have better, more reliable feeders.)

I bought a Moultrie Feedcaster recently, their top-of-the-line, and it will throw 600, but it also throws most of the food within a few feet of the bank. As in easy bank range for any kingfisher that should come along (and there are plenty around these ponds). If either of the quality companies made a standing feeder in this price range I'd never look at another Moultrie or Aquapro.

My experience with fish feeders goes like this: You get what you pay for. I dealt with 4 different manufacturers before I settled with Texas Hunter, and with Texas Hunter I intend to stay. I've also had pretty good luck with Sweeney. Since time is money, having to spend time helping clients deal with rediculous problems over the telephone simply eats away at my profit from the original sale.

Before long, it's not worth it....better off to feed by hand if possible in many cases if you can't afford a quality feeder.

Bobad, seems if you took the ap feeder back to where you bought it, with a little passionate persuasion you could get your money back. If they think you are not leaving until you get your money back maybe they will understand the problem is with there product and not you. I had the same problem and I persuaded memphis net and twine to credit my card and the same day bought a tx hunter. It cost me 230.00 more than the ap feeder but I haven't had a minutes problem with the tx hunter. GET YOUR MONEY BACK!!! ITS YOUR MONEY AND THEIR SORRY PRODUCT. DON'T TAKE NO FOR AN ANSWER. If that is possible. Mike

And that pretty much sums it up perfectly. Nicely done, Todd.

Being stuck with an AquaPro feeder doesn't necessarily imply one can't afford a quality feeder. When someone buys a fish feeder, such as the one marketed and distributed by AquaPro, one would think it would feed fish. In the case of the AP feeders, this is not necessarily true. Their marketing leads one to believe this feeder will reliably broadcast food. As I can attest; it does not.
I’m not an industrial engineer, nor do I care to dismantle and redesign a feeder in order to accommodate different varieties of food. My efforts end when the batteries are charged, food is poured into the hopper and the feeder is pointed in the right direction. In this regard the AquaPro feeder is a big zero. I’ll chalk this one up to a lesson learned and look to upgrade. In the meantime, AquaPro has one seriously disgruntled customer.

Well said WSimanovich.

More than one...

I couldn't find any threads on the Texas Hunter FT100. I understand that it's not a large, true directional or a free standing feeder but for the money, could you make it work at your pond? Or, are all hanging feeders capable of reliable feeding? Would a wide arced shield attached to two bottom post/legs (on the side you don't want the food to be hurled) help deflect the food over a larger area. TH's directional attachment closes 3 sides and is opened at the bottom so, that food falls straight down. FT100

That TH machine looks like just a simple scatter feeder; 1 motor turning a spinning plate.
The thing that sets the expensive TH fish feeders apart is that it has a powerful motor turning a centrifugal blower which actuallly blows the pellets out.
That's where the other companies are missing the boat. If they can produce and sell similar devices as the FT100 for much less, then they can make a similar design as the top end TH and sell it at similar or more margins, regain a good reputation and not have so many pissed off ex customers.
Simply put, TH is making a killing due to having the only one of it's kind.

basf50- short answer NO. It is not desigend to throw food out in that manner and fish food gums up vs. corn it is desigend for.

I need to correct the model number.... it's a TF100. IMO I would rather make this TH unit work, oppose to an AP considering the feedback of their product(s).

Merry Christmas all!