Pond Boss Forums Thread Like Summary - Fountain question

I am getting ready to have a fountain installed in my pond. Pond is one and a quarter acre and 22 ft deep. I want areation and my wife wants a fountain. I have been looking at floating pumps and I was wondering if instead of having the pump pumping from the top of the pond, would it be possible to extend the pickup for the pump down around 10 ft down with pvc pipe so maybe I can circulate that water column and get better aireation for the pond, has anybody tried this?? I know a fountain does not airiate the water very well because it’s just drawing water from about a foot down, but the wife gets what she wants and she really wants a fountain with lights and I was thinking I could have the best of two worlds going this route, any ideas? Or am I just pissing in the wind here, thanks
Gregg

Shock Effects from the world's largest aerospace company. They wish to remain nameless, so I will give them the code name of a Dr. Seuss character - Gerald McBoeing-Boeing.

Current Range and Reaction:
<1 mA - Generally not perceptible.
1 mA - Faint Tingle.
5 mA - Slight shock felt, not painful but disturbing. Most people can let go.
6-25 mA - (Women) Painful Shock, loss of muscular control. Range in which you can't let go occurs.
9-30 mA - (Men) Individual cannot let go but can be thrown away from circuit of extensor muscles are stimulated (by the shock itself)
50-150 mA - Extreme pain, respiratory arrest, severe muscular contractions. Death possible.
1,000-4,300 mA - Rhythmic pumping action of the heart ceases. Muscular contraction and nerve damage occur. Death likely.
10,000 mA - Cardiac arrest and severe burns occur. Death probable.
15,000 mA - Lowest overcurrent in which a 15A fuse or circuit breaker will open.

Use those GFIs around water!

I would just add that the energy-used answer somewhat depends on the pipe diameter employed to bring the water up 20ft. For a 2" SCH40 pipe there would be a 5.9psi (0.4 atm) pressure drop from bottom to surface at 200gpm, assuming a clean pipe. At 4" this drops to 0.2psi. Use a bigger pipe.

I am not an aeration expert, but have read lots of excellent threads on the forum.

I think up-sizing the fountain for more aeration may be a losing battle because the bottom bubbler aeration systems are so much more efficient at adding oxygen to your water column.

Perhaps your best bang for the buck is to do a fountain designed mostly for the aesthetics to keep your wife happy, and add a bubbler aeration system to keep your fish happy.

The deeper you pump from, the more energy it takes.
(signed) an Electrical Engineer

Your pond water with 16"-18" of visibility / transparency means light is only penetrating and algae making dissolved oxygen to around 3ft - 3.5ft. Aeration would be beneficial in this pond depending on what is causing the transparency; be it mostly silt/detritus and/or plankton. .


210gpm is 12600gph. 4,480,400g/12600g/h = 355hours/24h= 14.8days running the fountain 24/7 to get one pond turnover. However there could be an oxygenated refuge in the area around the fountain - depending. IMO do not buy that fountain for any measurable aeration benefit for the outer reaches of the one acre pond. This is especially true if you do not run it 24/7. Typically fountains are only good for mixing and aerating the same water over and over in the near-by vicinity of the fountain. They basically mix the same water over and over and do not spread the water currents outward away from the fountain unit. Water is sprayed upward until mean Ol'Mr. Gravity has the water fall straight back down around the fountain. Mostly a energy force/push downward - little if any outward water spread. Watch how it works and the resulting water movement. IMO if you pull deep water to the surface, this mixed blended water will stay in the vicinity of the fountain. Deep water is significantly colder more dense and will tend to sink back downward below the fountain. Thermal and DO testing will prove this. However the fountain will be pretty and nice to look at. Pretty things including women cost money. Often lots of money for the visual and personal pleasure.

I think your estimate is very close to the actual summer thermocline depth close to 6ft. That depth in my testing is very often the natural summer wind mixing depth of small ponds.

Don't use "foam core" PVC pipe. It will float in water. I went the cheap way some time back; and bought some to make crawfish habitat, then after it was made I realized that crawfish wouldn't use it if it was floating.............

Fish rod, I contacted the manufacturer (Anjon Mfg) and they told me that the motor is (hope I am spelling this correctly) an Asynchronous motor, meaning the start up and run are the same, 4.5 amps, doesn’t need a start up cap. I have never heard of that type of motor, wonder why they don’t use them in more applications.
After contacting Esshup, I have decided to just run the electrical to the pond and forgo running 200 ft of airline. I have to run wiring to the pond for the fountain, so I will upgrade the wiring to 10/3 gauge and hopefully save me a headache later on down the road in case I get an air leak somewhere under ground.
I really appreciate all the help here from everybody. If anybody is thinking of installing an aeration system, I HIGHLY recommend you get in contact with Esshup, he is very knowledgeable and super helpful, that’s where I will be purchasing my system. If there is anything that I am not seeing that I need to address, please let me know, I am an amateur at setting this up.
Thanks everybody

We just use the low pressure stuff. It's rated way over what pressure the aeration compressors are putting out, which is typically 5-10 psi.

The only failure that I've seen is in 3/8" poly that was chewed by what I think was a mole. I have had poly pipe come apart at the junctions where it was put together with a barbed fitting, but only in a watering system where psi was 30-60 with no hose clamp on the connection. Never had a failure of 1" poly in an aeration system (yet).

I've lived in Misery long enough to learn that the cheap black plastic farmer pipe is going to fail. It's not a question of it, but of when.

Upgrade to the blue poly stuff. It costs a little more but you won't have to replace it every 5-10 years.

That said, you're already running electric to the pond so probably would be easier and less costly to put the compressor at the pond
and skip the exercise of running airline from your house/barn/workshop. It would be easy enough to calculate the costs to determine that.