Pond Boss Forums Thread Like Summary - RPS Solar

Has anybody tried the RPS solar AIR-200 kit? Seems to be priced right and video looked good.

I have the Pro1500M model and it works like a champ. Put it in myself last June and haven't had a single issue. Dropped it down 150 ft. and the 8 360-375w panels produce around 18 GPM whenever the sun is out. It actually even runs when it's overcast, it just has a slower flow rate. Their videos made it easy to install. I may look into their AIR model too, the RPS support staff is very helpful.

All,

I don't know if they are on the pond boss resource list or not, but if I were to consider this system, I would have a lot of questions. Snipe is right, battery backed up systems have a lot more flexibility. Aeration during the day tends to warm up the water. I know of very few people that have warmer water in the summer as a goal. So, batteries allow you to aerate during the evening and night during the summer and not warm up your water. The time when O2 is lowest is usually around 3-5:30 am as described by the experts. Again leading me to want a battery based system.

With all that said, the batteries they offer seem to be very small (looking at the picture, I can't find a data sheet for them). I would have to ask questions about them as well. If they are lead acid, which they appear to be, I would want them to be large enough to run for the needed time on less than 20% of the batteries capacity. So to say that in a different way, If the 100 watt pump they use is gong to be running for say 10 hours at night I would want a battery with the capacity of: 100 watts X 10 hours X 5. So if the voltage is 24 volts, you take the 100 watts for 10 hours and get 1000 watt -hours. Now take that number and divide by your battery voltage to get amp-hours needed. 1000 divided by 24 says I need 41.66 amp-hours of energy. Lets call that 40. If I want to take al that energy from a battery and only use 20%, I multiply the 40 time 5 and find I would need a 200 AH 24 volt battery for the job. You can get away with using 40% of a battery and degrade the battery's life much more, so, if that is your strategy, a 100AH 24 volt battery will do, but your battery will not live as long as one where you are only taking 20% from it daily.

Then there is the diffuser, I have no idea if the diffuser they use is efficient. In solar, everything is about best value for your energy. If the diffuser is not really efficient, you are waisting energy.

Then there is the weighted line, I would go with a larger diameter for the air line, again to save energy.

With all those questions will come answers.

I'll be glad to answer any other questions about solar, if I have not addressed a topic of concern.

Okay, I did a little more digging. According the PDF on their site, the solar panels are UL 1703 rated. What does that mean? 1703 is an older less stringent standard especially when rating for hail. UL 61730 has been the standard since 2019. What does that mean? Well if you set up these panels in a hail prone area, they will be damaged by lesser hail than if they would have been built to the UL 61730 standard. Further these panels are in the 12 volt class. This means lower efficiencies over all. Not much, but some, meaning you are buying watts you will not be able to use. Think 85% verses 95% if you used higher voltage panels.

Again, let me know if you have additional questions.