Pond Boss Forums Thread Like Summary - Newly enlarged/renovated pond

I have a 1/4 acre pond averaging about 8-10 feet deep in Northeast, TN. In 2020, we had the existing 1/8 acre pond mucked out to the average 8' depth, then enlarged it to double the size to about .25 acres.
Each year, we've had a major problem with duckweed covering the entire surface.
Currently (Jan '22) the pond water is opaque with clay sediment from the excavation but is steadily clearing.
The pond is spring fed, with one of the springs about 400' away run through a 2" pipe with a sediment trap. Flow from the main spring is about 14 gallons/minute. If my math is correct, the pond turns over every 145 days or so.

Questions:
Would aeration be beneficial considering the turnover rate?
How many diffusers should I use and at what depth?

Thanks.
Edit: Would it be beneficial in any way to wait until the pond clears on its own before installing the aerators. Based on the experience when we had it mucked out, that will take about another months.

Removing a significant amount of the nutrient laden muck should eliminate the duckweed problem. Going forward you might see a lot more filamentous string algae.
Bottom diffused aeration will definitely shorten the turnover rate to easily once a day. One dual head diffuser with air 2.5-4cfm from a 1/4hp air compressor (rotary or rocking piston). should be able to create a water turnover in 3 to 5 hours. Depending on shape of the pond you might be able to get adequate pond mixing by running the pump with 2 diffusers two hrs per day.

I suggest definitely wait until the pond clears up to 2.5 to 4 ft of visibility before running / installing an aerator. If you start the aerator with very fine silt still in suspension the aerator mixing will tend to keep the smallest silt particles in suspension. If the pond gets some ice cover this helps clear the water. Generally the water is clearest in a pond just after ice out due to the prior period of no wind action and very slow biological activity during cold water of winter.

My second pond suffered from clay suspension after every rain. When I installed aeration, it went to being cloudy all the time.

One FEL full of limestone screenings (which includes sizes from fines to about #57; we keep it in stock to mix with manure when spreading) caused the clay to settle out permanently. I add another FEL load every two-three years.

Adding limestone also increases ph buffering; I don't think it can hurt anything. A lime search here (or words from one of our water quality experts [Cough! Cough! Bill Cody] will let you know what forms of lime are safe to use in ponds.