The linear polymer is a flocculant and binds with suspended clay particles and drops to pond basin and, depending on the treatment area/application amount, can have a major impact on clarity. On one of my micro ponds [.2 AC] my visibility went from 18" to 9' overnight following polymer treatment. I have some PB family who order the linear polymer [floc] to clear their ponds annually as for them it's more readily available [quick email to me], cheaper, and easier/safer to apply than alum which always requires a hydrated lime treatment to buffer the PH drop. Hydrated lime isn't much fun it's highly caustic - ask Rex Rains for some photos of his arms almost burned to the bone! Good times. I wouldn't recommend alum/lime treatments unless using an experienced pro, like I did, with Rex.

Steve - your new pond will be turbid for a while, so I'd focus my efforts and budget on straw mats and getting seed down and keeping it as moist between rains ASAP. Contact your local pros for recommendations on the quickest seed to germinate for the specific season and region you'll plant and include some warm and cool season grasses as well to germinate later. For us in NE Russian Wheat, Annual Rye, and Oats pop fast but in the Fall I like fescue blends and always include some warm season natives like Big/Litte Bluestem, Indiangrass, Switchgrass, etc. to germinate later. I love sedges, rushes and arrowhead as emergent and shoreline vegetation as it spreads fast and really helps stabilize shorelines from wave action.

When your pond is completed perform jar test to determine you don't have an ionic imbalance. We don't see those too often around the forum, and I suspect you'll be OK without having to consider managing turbidity outside of getting your watershed established ASAP. I'm always here to chat about watershed management as I've done it dozens of times now and figured out every way to screw it up - email me anytime buddy happy to help my PB family.

tj@hudlandmgmt.com