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Thread Like Summary
FishinRod, jpsdad
Total Likes: 2
Original Post (Thread Starter)
by CentexSaj
CentexSaj
I'm digging a pond in heavy clay soils. The pond was originally designed with a 3:1 slope in many areas, however I'm wondering if I can go steeper? What I'm more specifically trying to find out is if there is a slope where the clay soil will tend to just collapse and slide to the bottom of the pond? I've recently just read that bentonite for instance won't do well on a very steep slope and will slide to the bottom. Sorry I don't have very much more info on the clay that I have other than its mostly black and tan and it holds water very well. Probably the only good thing about my pond location.

The "Why" behind this is for multiple reasons. First is that my contractors screwed up on a few aspects of the pond and now it holds far less volume of water than originally planned. My pond only fills via rain water so I would like to try and rectify that. Second is that I'm looking at my shelfs and other features that I have for my spawning beds and just wondering if these vertical angles will eventually just collapse and spill all my pea gravel or if they will actually hold up for a good amount of time. Over time I would assume that things would degrade, however I'm hoping for the pond to have a good 25-30 year life span before it needs to be drained and given an overhaul.

I know I pop in and out of these forums sporadically. When I'm finished with this pond in hopefully less than 45-60 days I'll post up pics along with all of my costs that went into it.
Liked Replies
by Bill Cody
Bill Cody
IMO the steepest slope for good dense dark clay would be maybe 2:1 providing the builder uses a good sheepsfoot roller technique for compaction of the clay for the basin. Steeper than 2:1 makes it very difficult to get the optimum clay compaction which is necessary to get a good clay sealed basin to minimize leakage. Once the walls start sloughing you are loosing the compaction layer and leaks begin to continually increase over time. To be on the safe and conservative side, I would go for 2.5:1 for side walls with the beach spawning area at around a 3:1 slope. IMO you don't need a large spawn area when BG produce around 10000 - 30000 eggs/fry per nest. Good dense shallow habitat determines how fast the fry disappear. Don't let the LMB or predators overpopulate as they do for about every pond owner. Line 20-25% of the bank distance with good types of habitat.

Have contractor for the beach spawn area perimeter push up a dirt curb to outline it to hold the spawning substrate in place. The less shallow water the pond has this minimizes the amount of algae & submerged weed problems that will occur down the road. The more nutrients and organics that get into the pond the more plant growth that will develop as the pond ages. MINIMIZE NUTRIENT INPUTS FOR THE CLEANEST, BEST WATER QUALITY POND. Aerate the pond well for 1 turnover per day and you won't need to rebuild it for 35-40 years. If it were mine I would oversize the aerator and run it less each day.
1 member likes this
by esshup
esshup
A customer has clay that he can make pots from. He had the contractor dig the pond deeper and he did it with water in the pond. Vertical walls in the pond down to 20; deep. They lasted for about 2-3 years, then they started to slough off and slide into the pond. His pond now, 5-6 years later went from 28' deep to 15' deep, and his banks caved into the pond a good 5'-8' back from the original pond banks.
1 member likes this
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