** Wood Duck box update **
Subsequent to a few questions that Eddie asked on a previous post, I have some fundamental input from Myron the wood duck guy. For the record, I had already constructed the basic boxes before I met him. Nothing catastrophic, but I would likely change a few things. I emailed him the same pics I posted on this thread with the construction details. Here are the updates and details.
a) My box design is larger, but will work just fine. He elaborates:
The old style 12 x 12 is like a dance hall. The larger size encourages multiple hens to use it at one time. By the way the hen has to turn all the eggs at some sequence so it makes it physically impossible when there is more than say 15 eggs
He recommends use of the details given on the
WD Society PDF plans link (this may help answer Eddie's query WRT size; the primary diff from my boxes is a smaller width and depth).
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He also noted a very critical potential for disaster on my boxes. I told him the details of the duckling ladder I installed (see the pics on previous page).
I mounted the 4 1/2" x length hardware cloth (1/4" squares) with 3 brass flathead screws with larger stainless steel washers to help pinch the mesh down. I closely trimmed the edges of the hardware cloth to minimize sharp wires, particularly at the top where it is next to the entry/exit hole.
...his response:
Other Critique Observations: Good observation on the sharp edges—yes it does matter. I wouldn’t want the hens webbed feet to get ripped. What I do is fold in the top and sides by about 1/4" - 1/2” and then screw it on. Be sure to install a washer & screw at the extreme upper left and right corners—yes it does matter because the adult hen will pull/ fold it down [the way it is now] and essentially make a death trap for the ducklings. The way you have it is a common mistake. You could just install some add’l screws to the outside edges. I have used 1/2" staples in the past and I don’t recommend it.
I asked his opinion on predator guards:
I am torn between the gawdy sheetmetal flattened cone design...or...the 12" dia. stove pipe design. Any thoughts about the stove pipe?
He replies:
The worst predator is the raccoon. I believe a raccoon could crawl up a 12 inch stove pipe. What they do is bear-hug-crawl-up. Even a stove pipe would not be a significant deterrent/ barrier—unless it’s around 18”+ in diameter. That’s why I sent you additional predator guard photos for add’l ideas. If you use the light gauge aluminum roof flashing sheet-metal [and the 12 x12 box is more applicable to using sheet-metal] you need to flare it out like an inverted funnel. Sheet metal installed straight down is not enough to stop a raccoon and I have close up photos illustrating this by scratch marks on the outside of the box walls. No matter what you go with, think about how raccoons [& I’ve observed it] can literally run up and down a tree just like a monkey.
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To clarify his practice with sheet metal, he will take tin or aluminum sheeting and screw it to the bottom of the wooden box structure, around the entire perimeter and pointing downward to create a barrier.
