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Joined: May 2006
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Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: May 2006
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I think I finally got enough wire/cable to run all the way to the pond(650') with 100 amp service cable.
My question is if you choose to answer it is.
what is the minimum size ground/neutral that I would need? I still will limit my amp draw at the pond(10-15 amps) but I can now increase the amount of stuff that I want to run, say a water pump or something. Still only 120 vac to the pond.
I have 8 gauge down to 10gauge down to 12 gauge on the hot side and 10 gauge neutral.
A little snow, Please!
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 14,676 Likes: 509
Moderator Lunker
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Moderator Lunker
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 14,676 Likes: 509 |
If running just single phase 120VAC, the neutral ("white") has to be the same size as the hot ("black"), because the load will be running over both of these wires.
I have seen a size smaller neutral used when running 240VAC three-wire edison (2-phase), on the theory that enough of the load will be either 220VAC or balanced 110VAC of opposite phases that the neutral will be carrying a smaller load than either hot wire. I have not put this theory into practice myself, but have bitten the bullet to buy just as heavy a wire for the neutral as the hots when running 240VAC. (Downsizing 1 wire out of 3 saves perhaps 10%-20% on total wire cost. If not using 240VAC exclusively, why bet your loads will always be balanced for that small amount?)
I suggest a local ground rod to supply the ground in either case; this of course eliminates the need for a long ground wire and (properly done) is more effective as well. One shouldn't have trouble getting a good ground near a pond (unless it's lined).
IF I understand the wire you plan on using correctly, 8-10-12 gauge black and 10 gauge white, I think the limiting factor would be the stretch of 12 gauge black, not a whole length of 10 gauge white. I believe the exact answer would depend on the length of the 8, 10, and 12 gauge segments, but unless the 12 gauge is very, very short, it's going to be the overall load limiter (not the 10 gauge white).
"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever." -S. M. Stirling
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,025 Likes: 2
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,025 Likes: 2 |
Theo's quote "IF I understand the wire you plan on using correctly, 8-10-12 gauge black and 10 gauge white, I think the limiting factor would be the stretch of 12 gauge black, not a whole length of 10 gauge white. I believe the exact answer would depend on the length of the 8, 10, and 12 gauge segments, but unless the 12 gauge is very, very short, it's going to be the overall load limiter (not the 10 gauge white)."
Yo to what Theo said. Local ground good. Can you run 220 from the box and split the phases at the pond? I'm pretty sure you will be OK If your total load is 15 amps. If the voltage drop is more than 5 volts there are other solutions. I wouldn't want to discuss it at this time. Your little air compressor sure wont load it down. it draws like a 1/2 amp. Or did you get the Gast 0523? It only draws about 3-4 amps.
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 794
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 794 |
I need to update my post I didnt give enough info. I was at work and trying to sneak a post in. Since then I have figured out what I think will work. I have picked up 2 sections of #2 service wire which has 2 hot and 1 ground all the same size. each section is close to 200' total 400 feet, about 200 feet short! so I was thinking of running a smaller ground with just a single strand of the cable but then I realized that I could remove from each 200' role one strand and have enough to run the the full length to the cabin then down to the pond edge, by using 1 for the hot and one for the ground on 120 vac only.
I am still only using the small compressor and it seems to be working fine but I am having trouble with my under ground splices faulting out, it has been very wet here and I lost my circuit to the aerator. I want to pull all the other wire out and put this in the ground, and where there is a splice, I plan on setting a post and leaving the splice in a weather box and also mounting a outlet and a over head light something like a street light if I can which should break every 200'. I think it would look cool and my daughter wouldnt be so spooked at night walking to or from the cabin if the lights were on. I already have the ground rods in so its just a matter of removing the old wire and trench the new it which I am hoping to use the subsoiler and just lay it in as I trench it with the tractor by attaching the wire to the bottom of the cutting head and pulling it as I go. This wire is all direct bury type so it should be ok.
I tried to run a larger pump to try and creat a lazy river type circulation but at 8 amps it was way too much amp draw for what I had.
What do you think?
A little snow, Please!
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 14,676 Likes: 509
Moderator Lunker
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Moderator Lunker
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 14,676 Likes: 509 |
2 strands of 2 Gauge the whole way - that sounds like a pretty decent 120VAC run.
Underground splices can indeed be problematic sometimes. They can be done reliably (I have one in the 200 Amp service buried to my house; passing electrons for 18 years with no problems, knock on wood), but what you have envisioned may be much easier to implement AND you get something out of it, too.
"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever." -S. M. Stirling
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