Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Deck overhanging pond

I have a small pond 3/8 of a acre. I am wanting to build a deck overhanging the bank by atleast 4 ft. Does anyone know how much of the deck could safely overhang the bank into the pond? I would like the deck to be around 10x16, and built on the dam side of the pond. The water level goes all the way to the top of the bank. Is there a certain way that the overhang has to be built, what size joist needs to be used, ect. Thanks

Donnie,

Your local building department may have regulations regarding your deck construction, I would check with them first.

Most architects I work with go by the 1/3--2/3 rule. You can safely cantilever 1/3 of the structure,[assuming its properly anchored into the ground] a 16' long deck you could cantilever 5'4". I personally would use treated or redwood/cedar joists at least 2x8 on 16" centers.
Also, if your having a party on the deck you wouldn't want everyone on the cantelever at the same time. Good luck, it will be fun to build.

MARKALLEN

Thanks for the information, that is more than enough overhang for what I have in mind. I was thinking 2x6 joists, thanks for suggesting 2x8 joists. As soon as it drys up a bit I will start. Thanks again.

Donnie,
This plan means that you will be installing some sort of subsoil bearing foundation very close to the water's edge. This part of the project may dwarf the cantilever portion in engineering needs. I have to assume that the soils you will be penetrating to establish a suitable foundation will be wet. You may be going down pretty far to get to stable subsoil. The upside is that, depending on the size of the proposed structure, you may be able to minimize the amount of required foundation piers by making them stout and reinforced. Then, the lack of foundation members can be spanned above grade with suitably "beefed up" framing.

I dug thru my books. This comes from a book published in 1988, but I don't believe alot has changed in engineering values. I use this book for reference to ascertain minimum values, then I apply the next higher level of engineering stability to my project.

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My recommendation for construction is to do all the framing members in green treated lumber with stainless steel bolts and lags. I believe it is crazy to use the more expensive redwood or cedar for framing, but sensible to use stainless steel hardware. Take the money saved by using treated on the frame and focus generous allocation to the decking. This is where to spend the dough. Repeat after me: low maintenance, no maintenance....(repeat). Here are some good links to peruse: Big Ragu\'s pier thread
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footing thread
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Bski pier construction thread

Donnie, don't listen to B-ski he's get'n to techno. Just place one of these at the start of your deck and then your entire party of friends and family can hang out on the cantilevered end no problem.

Guys,

I've spent some time in New England and seen something there I have never seen in my area. That is piers that stick out over the water with no supports underneath. They seem to be metal frame and concrete if I remember right. Sorry no pics.