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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 396
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 396 |
Gainesjs I forgot to ask you the size of your geothermal unit? thanks
paul weatherholt
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 107
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 107 |
Deaner, The model I got 13 years ago was called AT-040 Looking at the website, I think it is now called the Premier P040,... http://www.waterfurnace.com/content.aspx?section=residential&page=products My unit has emergency resistance heaters that will kick on if my well pump breaks - but my well pump has never failed. I installed a large water storage tank to supply the system, ~80 gallons which is a bit larger than normal for residential. The large tank reduces the pump cycles. You can see all the technical info, on the website - they recommend 5 gpm for an openloop P040. You should also get the desuperheater which is probably standard on these systems.
Jeff Gaines
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1
Hall of Fame  Lunker
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Hall of Fame Lunker
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 20,043 Likes: 1 |
Originally posted by Jersey:
Cecil,
You are correct, but lifting the well water uses a lot of energy ($$$). In my neck of the woods a well is 200-600 feet deep, so lifting 12gallons/min = 61,200 ft/lb/min = 1383 watts. Then you lose 30% efficiency in your pump motor, so it takes 1975 watts (about a 2HP pump) to lift the water, assuming a 600' well. A closed loop has no lifting load, only circulation, so we typically run a 1/15HP pump.
Also, how long can you pump 12g/min before your well gets low? Then what? Around here if you use a well for geothermal, you have to return the water into a seperate well.
I know a good bit about geothermal systems and how they work in warmer climates. Lakes around here will always be (relatively) cool on the bottom in summer and warm in winter. I suspect this is the same up north. If your pond is deep enough to not freeze solid.
Engineering would be fun if it weren't for all the technical stuff. Good point. My situation is different. The well that supplies my geothermal and other household needs is only 70 feet deep and the static water level is only 16 feet. And I pump 41 gpms of well water 24/7 7 months of the year from the same aquifer different well for my trout pond with no problems. Supposidly in my area one can pump up to 2000 gpms with the right diameter well with no adverse effects to the aquifer. We are blessed with ground water here!
If pigs could fly bacon would be harder to come by and there would be a lot of damaged trees.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 7
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 7 |
I'm way north at 45�34' and our winters get very cold (-30C is common) but a closed loop geothermal unit to a heat exchanger in my small pond provides all the heat and hot water for our house -- and A/C in the summer where we often get +35C. The GHP is a Water Furnace E060 and I have a "Slim Jim" stainless steel heat exchanger in the pond. I considered using an open loop but it adds complications for filtering. A heat exchanger made of a loop of coiled plastic tubing was initially proposed, but concern about muskrat damage made us opt for the steel exchanger. It cost a bit more but it was smaller and much easier to install. I was a bit nervous about this first winter because the top of the exchanger is only ~12" from the bottom of ice (instead of their recommended 48"). However, it worked like a charm, and our energy costs were $1,700 lower than the previous year. I posted a more detailed description with pictures on this Pond Boss Aeration forum and would be happy to share my experiences. (The post is in the aeration forum because I initially started there, and learned that aeration and GHPs are not good combinations in the winter!)
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