Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations old pond ?s

From what I�ve heard: our pond was built by the wpa in the 1930s to collect runoff for irrigating the field below the dam. there is a �stone well� structure on the backside of the pond dam that must have been used for irrigating, but I can�t locate a corresponding pipe on the pond side. The original dam is green in the 2002 aerial pic. For whatever reasons, irrigating the lower field for cropland was abandoned and turned into a cattle pasture. a few years after the original dam construction, the west pond dike was created to prevent flooding the crop field west of the pond.

Dad bought this property in 1993 and had a dozer fix the spillway on the east side of the dam. also, we created a 1 acre marsh below the pond and installed a stop log water control structure to drawdown the pond in the summer months to promote shoreline vegetation for migrating waterfowl in the fall and spring.


Starting in 1994, we stopped using the pasture and pond for cattle production. The pasture has been restored to its original nwsg vegetation. Once the cattle were removed, we had an outbreak of willow trees on the west side of the pond. Within a few years, we had a beaver family move in and began destroying the west dike w/ their dens. Also, the original pond dam has a dozen or so mature, probably 20+ year old trees, mulberry, osage orange, willow, hackberry, growing on both sides.

The pond has collected a considerable amount of silt over the years. When walking in the pond, I sink 12~18 inches through silty mud. The water quality has improved slightly since removing cattle from the pasture, but still is poor less than 6 inches of clarity. The summer drawdowns have resulted in lush shoreline vegetation that is dominated by water willow. Last winter, I bought a windmill aerator and placed a hi~capacity diffuser near the dam.

We are managing the pond and land primarily for waterfowl. This summer, we are planning to build an 8 acre wetland in the field west of the pond, repair the west pond dike, and build a 5 acre marsh in the pasture below the pond. Also, the small parcel of land between the west pond dike and the 8 acre wetland will be planted to native bottomland trees, such as pin oaks and ash, which will someday be a 3.5 acre greentree reservoir that will be flooded in the fall once the trees are dormant.

I began drawing the water down in the pond this weekend by removing all the stop logs. pond will lose 24 inches of water w/ no logs in the water control structure. I spent New Years Day cutting and burning willow trees on the west dike, as well as, burning the beaver dens underneath the dike. Next weekend, I�m planning to rent a 4� water pump to continue lowering the pond�s water level. Ideally, the pond will be drained or very low) by march or april both to improve access to trees on the dam and dike and to dry out the hydric ground for the dozer to repair the dike this summer.

I set multiple beaver traps on the west dike that I�ll run for a few weeks. In February, I�ll have a local trapper come in to help catch remaining beavers. Over the next few months, I�ll cut, burn, and spray every willow tree on our property which will hopefully dissuade future beaver infestations.


a few ?�s:

H20 quality: What �testing� can I do to determine water quality, clarity, and microorganisms that are either present or absent from the water w/ the focus on improving waterfowl habitat?

Dam Integrity: The original pond dam is watertight, so should I cut all the trees on the pond dam or leave them be?

Water Removal: Once the spring rains begin, how can I prevent the pond from reflooding w/o cutting a hole in the dam or constantly running a pump?

Willow Tree Removal and Prevention: I�ve been told that willows should be sprayed w/ arsenal when actively growing. Is there anything I can spray now while the willow trees are dormant to kill them?

Beaver Removal: any ideas would be appreciated!

Preventing Future Beavers: any ideas would be appreciated!

Woodlot Planting: I�m hoping to plant a couple hundred trees in the 3.5 acre parcel in a couple months. What methods have been used to protect trees from beaver damage?

Pond Info.: Since the pond was originally built by the wpa, is there a government agency that may have records of the construction or any other historical data pertaining to the pond?

Any information would be greatly appreciated!

strmchzr,
Wow, nice project!
I can't help but with a couple of your questions.

Unless you intend to redo the dam any trees larger than 4" to 6" in dia. should not be removed from the dam.
The willows need to be activly growing for best effect of chemical treatment. I believe Kelly Duffy once mentioned cutting slits in the bark & pouring a mix of diesel fuel & herbiside in? Hopefully someone will remember. Here's a thread on controlling willows: http://www.pondboss.com/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000015


To my knowledge there is nothing to keep beavers from eating your trees other than a tree guard around each one. Removing the beavers by trapping is best.
Someone else will chime in to help soon.
Sound like you're going to have a great place to duck hunt!

Water testing...just do what's called a Basic Water Well test. You need to know pH, Total Alkalinity, Hardness and what basic metals and minerals exist. This test tells you whether or not to add aglime, or leave it alone, plus you get baseline info for later.
Ric's right...don't cut trees larger than 4" in diameter. Larger trees can be trimmed, but don't cut them.
Removing water...siphoning may be an option, but pumping may be the best bet without cutting the dam or reworking your stop log device.
Willows are best eradicated while growing.
Beavers...diligent trapping.
Preventing beavers...more diligent trapping. Beavers cut and build to create a lodge to live and reproduce. They will travel long distances to cut wood. So, always be on the lookout for beaver sign, small twigs stripped of bark, cut marks around trees, etc.
Woodlot planting...see above answer.
Probably no history on dam construction.

Ric, I don't want to even try to speak for Kelly but will give my experience with willows.

I use Remedy, mixed with water, as a foliar spray. I sometimes have to respray . I assume that I missed an area. It is deadly. I don't use diesel on the trunk area because of the cost. Remedy, like most herbicides is darned expensive. When mixed with diesel, as a trunk spray, the recommended dosage is four to one. Sure, it doesn't take as much per tree, but when mixed with water, it is mixed around 80 to 1. A 10 to 15 gallon load, in my sprayer for the 4 wheeler, goes a long way and lets me divert to poison ivy, oak trees and brush, green briars, etc. The 10 to 15 gallon load takes about 1/2 cup of chemical. Thats not too bad at about $100 per gallon. I've tried dishwater detergent as a surfactant and also the stuff (don't remember the name) that Kelly recommends. I feel like the good stuff works best but usually run out of it and go back to liquid dish soap.

Dang, I'm glad I don't have beavers in my pond. The coyotes and bobcats took care of them at the creek.

strmchzr,

What a project! Looks like Bob addressed the questions, but I didn't see the above one answered. With that size pond, my opinion is that a pump may not do the job you need. Just take out a small section of the dam with the track-hoe and when finished with the work go back and pack in good clay and you should be okay. In order to get the area dry and keep it in working condition, I wouldn't think you would want it to refill and then pump it out. Takes lots of time and your ground is rewetting also. A good track-hoe operator can set that up easily and also do a good reliable repair.

THANKS FOR THE KNOWLEDGE, GUYS!!!!

meadowlark, i think you're right about cutting a hole in the dam. no sense in spending time and money pumping now just to have it refill in the spring.

in regards to eradicating the willows using herbicide, is there any chemical or method that's effective while the tree is dormant ~ i.e. right now?