Pond Boss Forums AERATION Systems questions Pond areation.

Hello, 1st post.
I an considering a bubbler for my 3/4 acre pond.
Thinking a hiblow 100ll would be enough compressor?
I will probably need a 100 ft hose to rach the deep part.
Looking for suggestions on diffusers, placement and hose size reccomendation. Any other help, suggestions appreciated.
Thanks

Howdy.

Pond depth and shape?

Mosty all high blow compressors are to low of psi for most ponds bigger than 1/10 ac and deeper than 6-7ft. Know the psi and amount of air volume produced by by pump. Over stressed compressors do not last very long.

If you get the 100LL and have it push air 8 ft deep, invest in a rebuild kit. You will need it.

Bill cody,
The pond is kinda L shaped max 9 ft. I gound a gast 87 R pump. Wooild that be better?

Not leaving anyone out not sure how to reply to each answer
I am appteciating responses,!!

Hello, the pond is 9 foot max.

This is a pic. Thanks

Thanks for the info. I hesrd bad idea for hiblow, looking at a gast 87r
2, 10 inch diffusers, on noth and south edges of the 9 ft hole.
Power is close to the middle on east shore, so should be 2 straight runs?
Thanks

The Gast 87R will perform better with less trouble at 9ft deep than the Hiblow. Two separate diffusers will work well to turnover the pond faster so to not have to run the aeration 24/7.
How clear is the water on average each month? How deep can you see a white coffee cup?

I have not tried the white object, but i can see 3-4 feet easy. Its very clear.
Large algea blo8ms so may have to run 24. I am running a surface
Fan now so it will prolly be less to run the gast?
Thank you.

Do the white object measurement. You will need that data going forward.
Despite what you think or have been told do not expect diffused bottom aeration to control growths of algae blooms nor masses of FA. I would like someone to prove that to me or provide a scientific journal article that proved this about bottom aeration..

I only have whats on thhe net. So I have to try. If it wont help with algea, why is t benefucial?
Not arguing. Truly looking to.learn

Bottom diffused aeration does definitely have pros and cons. IMO many more pros than cons depending on ones GOALS..

Bottom aeration has a complex interactive affect on pond ecology. To briefly address your specific query, (why is it beneficial?).
and "If it wont help with algea". Actually - bottom aeration as noted below may help algae grow better, lot less. Numerous experiences have shown where aerated ponds can at times grow more algae. This can be a good thing for many reasons.

When most ponds are thermally stratified and the illuminated zone is shallow (0.5"-36") all the pond bottom areas are first to lose dissolved oxygen(DO) due mainly to all the various forms of bacterial decomposition. This relates back to measuring how deep you can see the white object (Secchi disk).

Bottom diffused aeration is designed to cheaply move using air lift technology high volumes of the low quality water from the bottom areas to the surface where "bad" water is degassed, dissolved oxygen (DO) is added in various ways, and the upwelled decompositionally and chemically created dissolved nutrients are made available to all the plant life in the illuminated part of the water column. Again a need for 'white object' measurement.

In actuality and IMO the added nutrients that the aerator brings to the illuminated zone can and does stimulate algae and plant growth from the nutrients that develop from the numerous forms of bacterial decomposition especially in the deep bottom areas of the pond. The pond bottom areas may or may not be aerobic where if aerobic, the decomposition is 'fast & clean'. Anaerobic decomposition has no DO and those areas have basically no normal DO dependent life forms including the aerobic bacteria. Anaerobic decomposition is very slow and 'dirty'.

The amount of algae and plant life that develops in ponds is highly dependent on the amount of the historical nutrient accumulations that have occurred to that pond. More dissolved nutrients feed more plants. Nature's Law. Do the research.

IMO Aerators that are sold to reduce or eliminate algae are sold by sellers or promoted by those who are uneducated informants that do not well comprehend the complexities of aquatic limnology and aquatic ecosystems.

To be completely fair and cover more bases there are a few rare, special cases where bottom aeration can help reduce some special types of algae problems, however these cases are IMO very rare and not the normal conditions that occur in most all ponds. Unused available nutrients basically cause excess plant growths. Various nutrient balances are what feed various types of algae and plant problems.

Bill, you should copy or reference that last post in an appropriate place in the archives.

Bill's response - I added the above thread to another thread in Aeration archives.
The Aeration topic in the archives needs to be reworked and topics consolidated into groups. Maybe I or another moderator can remember to do that this winter?

FreddyFish do you know about all the great pond management information in the archives?
https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

FreddyFish should study the good information about aeration by reading the threads in the archives about Aeration as connected in these two links. All the information is very educational.

https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=12&page=1

https://forums.pondboss.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=11&page=1

Well, Im committed now. So, good ,bad or otherwise. Im going to try that
And bacteria, continue raking as i can.
I lowered a white anchor and could see it down to 4.5 ft, in a dyed pond.
Not sure if thats good or bad.
I do appreciate the advice.

4.5 ft with dye is pretty clear IMHO.

Providing the water clarity stays at 4.5ft then enough light is able to penetrate to grow oxygen producing phytoplankton and various types of bottom algae on the bottom at 9 ft deep. HOWEVER when the water clarity decreases to 2 ft, oxygen is only produced at 4-4.5 ft deep. Water Clarity at 3 ft means oxygen production is at 6 maybe 7 ft. In these cases of lower water clarity, it means bottom aeration will be very beneficial to help keep mix water with oxygen to the bottom at 9ft deep.

Key Benefits of Using a white object as a Secchi Disk light penetration tool in the pond

Cost-Effective & Simple: It requires no electricity or complex technical training. Because it costs roughly $50 or can be easily homemade, it is ideal for citizen science projects and budget-conscious environmental monitoring.

Measures Light Penetration: The depth readings multiplied by 2 indicate the extent of the photic zone—the upper layer of water where enough sunlight penetrates to support photosynthesis and plant/algae growth.

Tracks Algae and Plankton: A sudden decrease in water clarity often signals an algae bloom or increase in suspended matter such as silt and detritus, warning you of potential nutrient overloading or oxygen depletion possibilities.

Provides Historical Context: Secchi disks have been in use for over a century. This standardized method allows you to compare current measurements to historical datasets to spot pond water trends over time.

I have extensive algea down to the 7- 8 ft level. Raking has become more yhan an old man can keep up with!!
Ha. Seems to grow faster than I can rake it. Also starting yo grow another weed, will get pics.
What are your thouhhts on doubling the dye for a month to slow it down?
Thanks gor yhe info

Yes, the water is pretty clear. You can really see
The blooms. Makes fishing miserable.

The more of the another weed that grows in the pond the less green hair string algae that will be present. Both use nutrients from the pond system and the hair string algae only grows when there are excess nutrients present that are not being used by the other submerged weeds. No submerged weeds; lots more of the green string algae. Accumulated and trapped within the pond, nutrients will grow some type of plant. Nature's rule and requirement. Green string algae uses the excess or left over nutrients not being used by the "higher" plants.

Try adding more dye and report back the results. I suspect the dye will slow the growth of mainly the "another weed". when stopping the current plant growths, nature will eventually "seed" or introduce some type of tolerant plant that will able to grow in the new nutrient rich conditions. You can't beat Mother Nature - she will always win as she has done for millions of years.

Dye is not real effective at slowing the plant growths in water shallower than 2-3ft according to dye label. More dye will / might help. Note pond dye reduces the amount or poundage of plankton that is the base of the pond's food chain, thus the abundance of the fishery reduces. Feeding pellets during time of using pond dye does help grow added fish pounds, however the added amount of fish manure from feeding pellets increases the nutrient load in the pond. More nutrients "push" for growing more plants.

Thank you.
So, your outlook, is bubblers stirring up the muck can cause more algea. And i am not arguing with that.
So when I rake it, and drag muck with it, do you think i am causrng more growth? I started using a " rakezilla" and it seems to bring more sludge up. Pic of pond and pile of sludge
Here is a pic of the new weed.
Thanks

Bottom diffuser aerators installed properly should not stir up bottom muck. Bottom aerators should be separated from the muck with a plate or some sort of shield or be placed above the muck on a stand or frame. Bottom aeration best used keeps dissolved oxygen on the surface of the bottom muck so oxygen consuming bacteria can relatively quickly digest the organic sediments.

The plant looks to be one of the floating leaf Potamogeton species maybe P. gramineus as Variable pondweed. A little later in the summer the plant should produce a seed head slightly above the surface.
https://aquaplant.tamu.edu/plant-identification/alphabetical-index/variable-leaf-pondweed/

Better description
https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/aquatic/grass-leaved-pondweed

I plan on putting the diffusers on top of cinder blocks.
That should keep them from stitting too much.
Thanks for the info.

I am assuming that the pond is in Missouri vs. Mass or OR. I was going to suggest a diffuser in 3' of water for winter aeration, but if the pond doesn't get iced over for any length of time it isn't necessary.