Pond Boss Forums POND CONSTRUCTION Soil questions Establishing vegetation on dead soil

I've been tossing out a lot of seed to try and get vegetation established on my banks and there are clearly some spots that are having a lot of difficulty. By some spots I mean I'm only growing good vegetation over about 25% of the pond banks, struggling vegetation over 50% and really struggling over the remaining 25%. I've got a spray rig for my tractor and an IBC tote full of urea (nitrogen). I'd like to spray the banks with a light application of it. Maybe 10:1. I kind of feel like I'm in a catch 22 here, spray nitrogen on the banks and risk it is running into the pond, or not have any vegetation and watch my banks erode into my pond. I stocked with fish last year, did another stocking this year. I feel that if I'm going to do this now would be the time since the fish load in the pond is at its lightest. Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Did you cover the seeded areas with shredded straw (or better yet, hay, which includes more seeds!)?

I did not do that, probably would have helped keep in a lot of the moisture. We're getting a lot of rain at the moment. I think I'll take some water samples to see what the nitrogen level is currently at in the pond. My assumptions right now is that it's likely on the low side unless a whole bunch of fertilizer just washed in. Once the rain stops I'll do a light application. I think anything will help these plants out.

I think Organic matter of any sort will be of great benefit + keeping the area where seed was added or generally doing poorly moist. Local county AG agent may give you a a best type of seed & soil enhancements to establish a ground cover. They are the local experts.They are there to help & already paid. Soil samples ?? A recent post suggested using the pond water, a trash pump, & impulse sprinkler heads. Organic fertilizer ? Black cow, Milorganite, compost, etc.
If i wanted i could get local yard waste that has been composted for free.

Take soil samples of the good spots and bad spots and get them tested. Then mulch, mulch, mulch after you do what soil amendments you need.

When I built my pond, the exposed dirt was some of the nastiest, rocky clay mix that appeared barren as hell, from way down deep underground.

I hired a lime truck and had him put about 4 tons per A all over it, then lightly fertilized it, and seeded with clover and annual rye grass, the rye grass for quick cover and mitigate erosion, and a nurse crop for the clover.

I added a little crown vetch seed scattered over the whole area, it makes a great ground cover for erosion control in really poor soils, and I like the aesthetics of it.

Then with a good amount of rain that first 4 months the seed came in thick, covered the whole dam like an established old clover hay field. amazing, had a deer hunting patch for several yrs till the clover slowly faded out and now the vetch is taking over and filling in all the voids. looks beautiful!

I had intentions of having a professional come in and blow chopped straw over the whole thing, it was a couple acres, but it stayed too wet, so I never got it done before it all greened up and grew.

I’d be careful with the urea, especially that close to the water. I understand the catch-22, but I’d rather deal with slower vegetation establishment than accidentally load the pond with a bunch of nitrogen. If the soil is actually nitrogen-deficient, a light application may help, but I’d first make sure the poor growth isn’t from pH, compaction, poor seed-to-soil contact, moisture, or the seed mix itself. You could also focus the fertilizer on the areas that are already established and gradually work into the bare spots rather than blanket-spraying the whole bank. And I wouldn’t rely too much on the low fish load as protection-the concern is the nutrient getting into the water and potentially fueling algae. Getting some kind of cover established is definitely important for stopping erosion, but I’d aim for the minimum fertilizer needed to get that cover going.

esshup

"Then mulch, mulch, mulch after you do what soil amendments you need."

Soil analysis & correction. Then Mulch, mulch, & mulch some more. As the mulch continues to break down, its breakdown products enhance the rocky clay soil allowing roots to more easily spread & extract nutrients. Mulch & consistent moist are your friends to quickly establish a ground cover.

J.E. (and others),

I must be missing something.

I put mulch down around my new tree plantings to PREVENT grass and weeds from emerging from that soil.

I understand how mulch would help in the long term to improve low-productivity soils. I don't understand how we would use it short term to help establish vegetation?

Talking straw mulch like some do for a garden.

Thanks.

<insert picture of light bulb illuminating above FishinRod's head here>