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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 178 Likes: 1
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Joined: Oct 2017
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Howdy, friends!
I haven't posted in a while. I hope everyone is well and your year is off to a great start!
Georgia and I felt like it was time to put some more distance between us and the city, so we started the process of looking for dirt and listing our home last summer. We closed on 20 acres in central Texas back in August and sold our primary residence in Montgomery in January. That's the house I had the "mini pond" project at... my first pond. One of things I miss the most about that place was the pond! I really miss feeding my bluegill. I learned a lot owning that tiny pond and enjoyed all the years trying to be a good steward of the life within it.
I sincerely hope I will be able to have another pond built at our new place. I saved some money to budget for having one built, but naively did not consider the topography for pond-friendly watershed as a criteria during purchase of the land. Honestly, selling our home that we loved so dearly was extremely stressful for us and pond planning literally just slipped my mind. Well, you can't put the milk back in the cow, so I'm hoping I can figure something out.
I have not had test holes dug yet, but that will be a first step once I select a pond construction resource. Our builder did have someone come out and dig a couple of test holes for the septic (to determine if we could use a leach field) and they hit clay fairly shallow... so aerobic it is, but that is potentially a good sign for material. The guy doing the dirt work for my builder has some experience in pond construction and said he would be happy to do the test holes for the pond material check for about $1500, but I think I'm going to talk to a few different pond builders before I make a selection. I'd love some recommendations of who I should speak with if y'all have personal testimonials or referrals to share. The physical location is south Hamilton county between Hamilton and Evant. It's not quite as rocky there as the Edwards Plateau and seems to have better soil in that region... but from what I have heard, ponds are hit or miss in central Texas. We had so much clay in Montgomery that most anyone could probably make a pond that holds water. Not the case out here, I reckon.
Here is the topo of our lot. You can see the water drains over the land immediately on either side of our place. The little blue circle is roughly where I was hoping to poke a hole... that isn't the size of the pond, but just the general area I would love to have a pond. I spoke with the USDA NRCS guy about the watershed on my land... super nice guy, by the way. He suggested that I don't try to go bigger than around 1500 cubic yards for the available watershed at that location. Rough math puts that somewhere around a quarter of an acre of surface area if you sloped down at around 4 to 1 to a 10 foot deep center area... I think. I would love it if it could be deeper than 10 feet and larger than the 110-ish feet across that approximation suggests. There are a lot of steps between here and there (like checking material with test holes, etc) before size can be dialed in... I understand.
![[Linked Image from thispageintentionallyleftblank.net]](https://thispageintentionallyleftblank.net/TEMP/TEMP/wstp.jpg)
Understandably, the gentleman working in resource conservation was not a fan of using ground water to supplement watershed... and I agree for filling the pond. My first pond was so small, I could counter evaporation in the summer with well water. Is that even a thing for larger ponds or is it just too much to keep up with? The main reason I am wanting to build this pond is for recreation and personal enjoyment... spending time there, maybe some swimming and fishing, but mostly for the serenity. I'm not trying to grow trophy sport fish, but I would like a healthy ecosystem with wildlife diversity. I have seen a lot of ranch tanks that provide water to local wildlife and that's about it... certainly not much to look at. If I can't keep it relatively full enough to get a balanced ecosystem developed, it might not be worth the expense to start. I'm retired and a little intimidated by getting in over my head financially with this pond project... so I don't want to bite off more than I can chew here. I suppose, worst case, I could do another mini-pond... but I sure am hoping the dream of a bigger, natural pond can come true this year.
As always, I sure appreciate the wisdom shared here... thank you so much for taking a look and sharing your thoughts.
Warm regards, Clayton
96.85840735 percent clayton... the rest is just pi.
We become what we think about.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,555 Likes: 411
Moderator Lunker
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Moderator Lunker
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,555 Likes: 411 |
Clayton, you might consider digging some test holes to see what’s under the surface. A neighbor near me did and found almost solid rocks and sand seams that would never hold water.
It's not about the fish. It's about the pond. Take care of the pond and the fish will be fine. PB subscriber since before it was in color.
Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done.
Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP Grandpa
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 29,788 Likes: 1295
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 29,788 Likes: 1295 |
You can go a bit steeper with the banks to get more depth. I'd go 4:1 for the first 20-25 feet on the side of the pond that is closest to the house, then transition to 3:1 and do 3:1 starting from the waterline out on the 3 sides (or so) that are away from the house. You really need more depth than the 10' to help combat the pond from getting too shallow if rainfall isn't what you expect it to be. Ponds can be kept full from a well, it just all depends on how much water is underground. I have enough here to pump over 1,000 GPM if I want to dig a big enough well and pay the energy cost to run that big of a motor. My well currently pumps 25 gpm and that is enough to help raise the pond level. For a pond I would want to have 50 gpm as a minimum. The other water in your area is at roughly 1125' elevation and at 1120' elevation so if your ground will hold water you should be OK. If the ground won't hold water, depending on budget, you could always go with a liner. Bookmark this website and keep it for a resource "just in case". https://www.btlliners.com/Keep us appraised of the progress!
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 178 Likes: 1
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 178 Likes: 1 |
Clayton, you might consider digging some test holes to see what’s under the surface. A neighbor near me did and found almost solid rocks and sand seams that would never hold water. Thank you, Dave. I definitely intent to have test holes dug first before proceeding with the project. /c
96.85840735 percent clayton... the rest is just pi.
We become what we think about.
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,914 Likes: 1002
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,914 Likes: 1002 |
Please pull up the 100-year flood map for your creek. I would build the pond embankments just outside of that range. (In many states, the rules for building in the floodplain are MUCH more stringent.)
In Kansas, the rules for pumping water from a creek into a pond are much less restrictive than pumping groundwater. It is also usually much cheaper and easier to pump from a creek. Does your creek have water available during July and August? If so, try to review the regulations in Texas yourself or ask the NRCS agent about supplemental water usage from the creek.
(In my experience, a NRCS agent needs to be an expert in about 100 different topics. If you get one that is an expert in 40, then you have a good agent. However, it is impossible for them to be an expert in every single topic under their purview. So you kind of need to gauge if the agent seems to be an expert on the questions you are asking.)
Good luck on your new pond project!
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 178 Likes: 1
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 178 Likes: 1 |
You can go a bit steeper with the banks to get more depth. I'd go 4:1 for the first 20-25 feet on the side of the pond that is closest to the house, then transition to 3:1 and do 3:1 starting from the waterline out on the 3 sides (or so) that are away from the house. You really need more depth than the 10' to help combat the pond from getting too shallow if rainfall isn't what you expect it to be. Ponds can be kept full from a well, it just all depends on how much water is underground. I have enough here to pump over 1,000 GPM if I want to dig a big enough well and pay the energy cost to run that big of a motor. My well currently pumps 25 gpm and that is enough to help raise the pond level. For a pond I would want to have 50 gpm as a minimum. The other water in your area is at roughly 1125' elevation and at 1120' elevation so if your ground will hold water you should be OK. If the ground won't hold water, depending on budget, you could always go with a liner. Bookmark this website and keep it for a resource "just in case". https://www.btlliners.com/Keep us appraised of the progress! I appreciate the words of advice. I am hoping a liner won't be required, but I bookmarked the link. Well sizing if limited by my budget and the fact that this is going to be supplied by an off-grid solar microgrid due to the cost of pulling in power from the local municipality (and some fairly ridiculous clearing requirements they have for service truck access that must be maintained in perpituity). Once I select a pond construction service and have the test holes done, I'll share photos and some data on what was found. /c
96.85840735 percent clayton... the rest is just pi.
We become what we think about.
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,914 Likes: 1002
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,914 Likes: 1002 |
Well sizing if limited by my budget and the fact that this is going to be supplied by an off-grid solar microgrid due to the cost of pulling in power from the local municipality In that case, definitely find out about the regulations regarding pumping from the creek! A little gasoline powered 2" or 3" trash pump pushing water UP from the creek bank can move a lot of volume at a very low cost.
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 178 Likes: 1
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 178 Likes: 1 |
Well sizing if limited by my budget and the fact that this is going to be supplied by an off-grid solar microgrid due to the cost of pulling in power from the local municipality In that case, definitely find out about the regulations regarding pumping from the creek! A little gasoline powered 2" or 3" trash pump pushing water UP from the creek bank can move a lot of volume at a very low cost. Now that's an option I had not considered. That creek that forms the south boundary of my lot is not running all the time... just when we have rains... but there are large sections with year-round water (I'm assuming) because it has fish in it. Certainly something I can explore if I can make this pond a reality.
96.85840735 percent clayton... the rest is just pi.
We become what we think about.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 29,788 Likes: 1295
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 29,788 Likes: 1295 |
Well sizing if limited by my budget and the fact that this is going to be supplied by an off-grid solar microgrid due to the cost of pulling in power from the local municipality In that case, definitely find out about the regulations regarding pumping from the creek! A little gasoline powered 2" or 3" trash pump pushing water UP from the creek bank can move a lot of volume at a very low cost. Now that's an option I had not considered. That creek that forms the south boundary of my lot is not running all the time... just when we have rains... but there are large sections with year-round water (I'm assuming) because it has fish in it. Certainly something I can explore if I can make this pond a reality. Just use a 50 micron filter on either the inlet or outlet to prevent pumping unwanted "things" into your pond from the creek. Cody note: To eliminate fish eggs and fish fry a 500 micron filter (0.5millimeter) is very adequate while allowing phytoplankton and zooplankton to enter and help seed good plankton into the pond to enhance and kick start the food web / chain. Putting the filter on the discharge works best in my pumping applications. The filter on the inlet tends to become clogged to easily and restricts the water flow to the pump. Make sure the filter on the discharge is large enough to not become packed with debris and leaves so water freely flows out of the filter. Size of the filter depends on size of pump and amount of junk in the water being pumped. An inlet filter of 1/2" reduces the amount junk moving through the pump and collecting in the discharge hose filter.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 04/08/26 02:47 PM.
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