I 2nd the thought of figuring out what to do with the spoils before a bucket of dirt is moved, and also digging a test hole in an undisturbed area that will be the pond. The deeper you go the better. If in a drought, the more depth you have will be your friend to retain water. I would encourage 12' instead of 10' if at all possible, 14' is even better if you have the distance.

I also agree with the 3:1 slope but I'd suggest making part of that slope by the house 4:1-6:1 to allow you to walk into the water if needed - more of a beach area even if there is no sand on it.

When you say "Perch" do you mean Bluegill or do you mean Yellow Perch? In a 1/2 ac pond you will be much better off trying to grow big bluegill vs. big bass. You can have all the bass you want in a 1/2 acre pond that measure 12"-14". If you want one or two bigger bass, I'd recommend fin clipping one or two that way you know what ones to release if caught a 2nd time.

Aeration will be needed in both deep holes.

I would plan NOW for cover in the pond, and put it in place with the heavy equipment before it leaves the site. It's much easier that way.

Run electric to the pond when construction is finished asap. Determine where the fountain will be, and where the compressor will be for the aeration. The underwater 1/2" - 0.6" ID aeration line is running around $1,80/foot plus tax and shipping. Underwater cable for the fountain is more than that per foot. 220v. is less expensive to run than 120v, and the fountain needs to be in the widest part of the pond. Do you want lights with that fountain?


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3/4 to 1 1/4 ac pond LMB, SMB, PS, BG, RES, CC, YP, Bardello BG, (RBT & Blue Tilapia - seasonal).