Hydrilla Control - Grass Carp (GC)
GRASS CARP INFO and Hydrilla Control
Here is a Very Good info sheet. Read carefully and understand all the details..
https://sarasota.wateratlas.usf.edu...for-Biological-Mgmt-of-Aquatic-Weeds.pdfTexas
https://aquaplant.tamu.edu/management-options/hydrilla/https://aquaplant.tamu.edu/management-options/hydrilla/2. Biological Management Options
Grass carp will seldom control aquatic vegetation the first year they are stocked. They will readily consume hydrilla, and it is, in fact, one of their most preferred plants. Grass carp stocking rates to control hydrilla are usually in the range of 7 to 15 per surface acre. In Texas, only triploid grass carp are legal and a permit from the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department is required before they can be purchased from a certified dealer.
Water Research Power Point Presentation
https://www.waterrf.org/serve-file/resource/031518Webcast_FINALv1.pdfComments from members of PBoss Forum Greg Grimes - ""
yes POSITIVELY identify it first but we have had great results with a one two punch. Grass carp and copper/reward combo as mentioned by JHAP (informative post my friend).
It is a 350 acre lake and we keep less thatn 2% coverage. Every three years stock 2-3 grass carp per acre to keep fresh young hungry grass carp going. The initial stocking 8 years ago was about 8/acre. Also key to stock larger 11" plus size to survive bass predation. Then we spot tret with 2 gals reward/1 gallon ktea/.5 gallon surfactant per weeded acre. I think for what its worth you did not stock enough GC or for the % GC eaten by bass or those that escaped. I suggest more grass carp in the spring before the hydrilla starts back. Then spot treat early as suggested. Hope this helps.""
Chad Fikes - First thing is we need to
properly identify plant species that you are dealing with. I have been managing aquatic vegetation for 5 years in North Texas and southern Oklahoma and have yet to see an actual Hydrilla case. Once we id plant we can come up with a game plan to manage plant.
There are basically three different management options for plants. Biological, which you have tried with grass carp, physical removal and EPA registered aquatic herbicides. Each is a tool that we can use to manage plants. Sometimes one works better than others.
I would avoid fertilizing until then. I would be happy to help you come up with and implement a game plan to manage those plants.
Kelly Duffie - If hydrilla wasn't introduced to your lake (accidentally or intentionally), then it is probably something else.
Verify the plant's ID before you do anything.
IF it is hydrilla, fertilizing to shade it out is not an option (IMO). Hydrilla is capable of withstanding extreme low-light conditions, which is why it typically dominates plant-communities. Also, fluridone (Sonar, Avast, Whitcap) might be more affordable than you think (despite the high $/gal price-tag), considering the low-dosage required for excellent hydrilla control. Then again, your lake's hydrological characteristics have a lot to do with making it a decent candidate for fluridone treatments (little or no flow-through for 90+ days after treatment is essential).
'Jeffhasapond ' - Also no expert but I've had first hand experience in dealing with Elodea. (Looks very similar to Hydrilla and often mistaken for Hydrilla). I originally was calling our pond weed Hydrilla until I learned how to distinguish between Hydrilla and Elodea, it turned out we have Elodea. Ultimately I used a Cutrine Plus/Reward combination that had a significant impact on our Elodea problem. Now all I do is spot treat areas each year. I believe I spent about $300-$400 to treat our 3 acre pond that had 70 to 80 percent coverage. It worked wonders for us. For a 10 acre pond I think I'd find out what a professional consultation would cost.
