Pond Boss Forums MANAGING AN EXISTING POND Evaluating and adjusting fish populations Hi there quick question on going forward

Hi there we have a 1/2 acre pond with a liner

It’s about12 feet deep in the middle and 4 feet all the way around. It was built for swimming but it’s not clear . It has no outlets so it’s just stagnant. We have a fountain and one aerator it’s not clear like it was when we filled it 3 years ago. Wondering if there’s anything we can put in it to make it clear and rash free? Is there any type of chemical we can put in that would do wonders? Frogs love it but the kids tho
K it’s gross. It’s just an eyesore although it’s no nice to look at. We have thrown in pond clear from the pond guy and do throw a few in every couple of weeks. We actually drained hall the water and cleaned it last year after a couple kids got a rash from swimming in it


Thanks

What is your water source? Do you have enough excess water to do full water exchanges?

Any plants growing in the pond? Either in the material placed over the liner, or in submerged pots?

Have you performed a jar test to determine the cause of the cloudy water?

Do you have any fish in the pond?

The rash may have been from Swimmers Itch. The little parasite that causes it utilizes snails during its life cycle. A few Redear Sunfish would be more than happy to keep your swimming pond snail free.

If you answer some of my questions above, some of the experts might be able to give you some good advice for your particular situation.

Joe, welcome to Pond Boss. I don’t give advice about water that might get cold.

No fish as of yet just a lot of frogs which scares the kids because they are so big

Water was all trucked in as we sit up kind of high

Thanks

Whoops no pants that we have added

Thanks

Ahhhhh. Skinny dipping.

No plants lol

Is there any chemicals we can dump in that will clear it up?

Before considering chemicals, you need to determine what is the cause of your murky water.

The first step is to perform a "jar test".

You need two decent-sized jars (preferably glass). Fill each jar about 80% full. Put one in a dark place (closet) and one in good indirect sunlight (like a windowsill that is NOT in full direct sun). Observe both jars for a week.

If both jars clear up in a week, then you probably have a mechanical turbidity issue. There should now be material at the bottom of your jar. Some organisms in the pond are stirring up sediment or debris to make the water murky. I could even be humans, dogs, etc. as the organisms.

If the jar in the dark clears up in a week, but the one in the light stays murky or colored, then your murky water is probably due to a phytoplankton bloom. The photosynthesizing organisms died in the dark.

If both jars stay murky for at least a week, then you probably have suspended clay particles causing the murky water, and you will need to treat the water to change the ionic balance.

The solution for each problem is different!

Unless you added a lot of clay on top of your liner, then I suspect your murky water is probably due to plankton blooms. (But you need to find out for sure!)

Below is a good link about that topic.

Plankton Blooms

[Much of that "jar test" advice above is from an old post by teehjaeh57.]

Not sure if the soil had clay in it bud I’m sure it did
They took a lot of dirt out when they dug the pond out

Will try the water test thanks

Read these two threads:

Alum kicks clay's butt

Part II

Thanks I appreciate this

It’s just a bit too much work for us as I’m disabled. Any chemicals I can just throw in? I do see a lot of leaves at the bottom

Thank you

Nope, nothing that you can "just throw in". Give Rex Rains (Rainman here on the forum) a private message. He does that for a living.

So all the bags of bacteria you just toss is are a waste of money?

Thanks

If using them to clear up turbid pond water due to suspended clay particles, yes.

Hi Joe - You say - "We have thrown in pond clear from the pond guy and do throw a few in every couple of weeks."

Obviously the stuff from pond guy is not working which is why you are asking for help on our forum. Did anyone from the pond guy visit the pond? If they did visit ,,,,your problem is beyond their knowledge or ability.

The jar test if done properly, it can indicate if the turbidity is caused by sediment, dirt, or clay particles in the water column. or the lack of clarity is caused by something else usually plankton - phytoplankton and or zooplankton. Lack of clarity can also be caused by a bacterial bloom or suspended tiny organic particles suspended in the water or a combination of all the preceding items. The pond being initially clear and no longer clear with NO fish suggests there could be a plankton bloom but maybe not.

How clear is the water now?
How clear was the water when it was clear?
How deep can you see a white coffee cup on a string when the cup is lowered into the water. You should know this measurement so you can determine if what you doing is helping, hindering or doing nothing for water clarity.

Joe says - So all the bags of bacteria you just toss is are a waste of money?
Answer - apparently yes, a waste of money if using bacteria to make the water clearer. Bacteria have a benefit for ponds when used to fix the right problem. Bacterial additions can only do certain things to help or hinder the pond ecology. Obviously bacteria are not correcting the lack of water clarity. Who told you bacteria would make the water clearer?
You have to know why or what before you can 'fix' a problem. Just as the doctor has to know WHY you are 'sick' before he/she can fix the illness. Often this involves tests.

Thank you for the answers

The water is clear about 3 feet in all the way around the edges
It was a lot clearer when we had the water trucked in 3 years ago


Coffee mug we can see about 4 feet down

Thank you

Could it be leaves as our lot is heavily wooded all the way around. If so what’s the easiest way to get rid of the leaves without manually pulling them out?
Thank you

If your goal is to grow fish, then the clarity that you are at now is perfect - you don't need more clarity.

The bacteria IF ENOUGH O2 IS PRESENT WHERE THE LEAVES ARE AT will work on those leaves.

Don’t really want to grow fish

Just want it back the way it was 3 years ago if that makes
Sense