|
Forums36
Topics42,113
Posts571,673
Members19,115
| |
Most Online13,561 9 hours ago
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 14,676 Likes: 509
Moderator Lunker
|
|
Moderator Lunker
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 14,676 Likes: 509 |
I have a 43 acre cattle and horse farm in central Ohio. Three years ago we put in a 1 acre pond. Most of our land, including all of the pond site and the entire watershed, is drained by field tiles like you are asking about. Specifically, they are the old style clay/ceramic tile 1- or 2-feet in length that are (loosely) fitted together, not the current corrugated plastic style. I can see three things you need to be concerned about with respect to field tiles: (1)water flow, (2) sediment & clogging, and (3) chemicals.
(1) Remember the purpose of the field tiles is to drain fields quicker than surface runoff and natural percolation would allow. This means you may get no more water through the tiles than would flow into the pond if the tiles weren't there, but it will probably flow in faster. I would suggest putting in a size larger drain pipe they would normally be called for by the size of your watershed and local rainfall (say going from a 6" outlet to an 8").
(2) Your particular tiles MAY be at risk of introducing extra sediment into the pond, or they may be clogged from years of sediment that have settled in them. The tiles on our farm are clogged any where from 20% to 75% of their capacity after 75 (?) years of use. Looose fitted ceramic field tile is very susceptible to breaking and cracking (tractors and farm machinery getting bigger and heavier since the tile was installed), resulting in potentially large holes at the surface. Check the status of the tiles and surface in your watershed. If you have no or few holes, and if there is good grass cover, you probably will not have too much sediment. We don't.
Due to problems with clogging and cracking, I would not want to rely on existing field tile for the outflow from my pond. Eliminate existing tile on the downhill/dam side and install new drain pipe, sized by an experienced pond designer or Soil & Water Conservation Agent (or go a size larger, like I said above).
(3) What chemicals have previously been used on the watershed? What is being used now? If the land that drains into your pond was no-till farmed for a long time, you may have chemicals leach into your pond from underground, even if no new chemicals are being applied. Our land has not seen serious chemical usage for a long time, if ever, and I don't worry about subsurface "stored" chemicals. ALL pond owners need to be concerned about current chemical usage in the watershed, but personally I would rather have a working farm drain into my pond than a golf course or upscale subdivision, which usually have high rates of chemical usage.
Boy, that turned out long-winded. Hope it is usefil info.
"Live like you'll die tomorrow, but manage your grass like you'll live forever." -S. M. Stirling
|
|
|
Moderated by Bill Cody, Bruce Condello, catmandoo, Chris Steelman, Dave Davidson1, esshup, ewest, FireIsHot, Omaha, Sunil, teehjaeh57
|
|