E26,
The battery is too small and the wrong type. It is a starting battery not a deep cycle battery.
The internal inverter fuse is a last chance fuse. I would still use an inline fuse.
In your area, the batteries will need to be protected from the cold in winter, especially as hard as you are going to run them.
See if your charge controller has a low battery disconnect. If it does, you can use the load outputs with the low voltage cutout to power the relay which runs the inverter. This way, when the charge controller sees the battery voltage sagging, the controller can kill the relay and thus the inverter until the battery recovers.
If your charge controller has a low voltage cutout for the load, that will be all you need to use. I have no dealings with MWandS. I would look for a cheeper solution from a reputable retailer if the charge controller does not have this protection. I do know the Brat charge controller does have a selectable low voltage cutout.
Bill,
I am humbled to receive such an endorsement from one I hold in such high esteem. Thank you for the complement. I will continue to help where I can.
What I am thinking about is to "build" virtual solar systems for 12, 24, and 48 volts. These systems would use off the shelf parts I know about and I would be able to give estimates of the daily power available. Some of the issues would be battery sizing, panel selection, controllers, and inverters (if AC power is wanted/needed).
One of the biggest issues is that most people that start using solar always want more power. So upgradability is key to best value solutions.
Thoughts?
