First thing to do to clear a new pond is establish a good thick vegetative cover on the watershed. Muddy runoff and exposed banks will continually contribute to suspended clay and periodic long term cloudiness. Rip-raped shorelines (any sizes of materials, even broken waste concrete) especially placed down wind helps a lot to reduce resuspension clay on the wave washed banks. Plus the rip-rap is very good fish habitat - win-win. Once clay colloids are resuspended it takes a long time for them to settle depending on the type of clay. Check with agricultural-farm supply places for alum. Explore with good homework quick lime (aka hydrated lime, calcium hydroxide) as a more common but less effective than alum substitute. Alum and quick lime are often used together for very good results. Each can quickly and strongly adjust the water pH if the pond water is not well buffered i.e high alkalinity - hardness. Hydrated lime is considered to be a strong base & caustic, and care should be taken when applying. Don't treat it lightly. Avoid breathing the dust and do not allow it to contact skin or eyes.
Page 27 of Management Guide for Ponds and Small Lakes in Kentucky.
http://fw.ky.gov/Fish/Documents/FarmPondBooklet.pdfNOTE: the dosage to use are suggestions and starting points depending on the conditions. Higher dosages are sometimes needed. Do some jar tests to help determine proper dosage.
http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/publications/SCS-2013-02.pdfI wouldn't try to chemically clear your pond until the watershed is vegetated. Before then IMO chemically clearing it will be a waste of time and effort. In the meantime stock your fatheads in early spring. Feed thm a little crushed fish food regularly. They do not need clear water to thrive.
IMO Usually, I would not aerate your new pond until you can get acceptable clarity. Aeration tends to keep micro-clay particles moving in suspension. Aeration's job is to keep water moving.
