Pond Boss Forums AQUATIC VEGETATION Controlling unwanted plants When killing Cattail, what's best?

I have a small stand of cattails that found their way in my pond. What have y'all found works best? If I spray I think I need to leave it for a month or so but if I dig I don't think I will get all the roots?

What are your ideas?

Rob C.

Use a glyphosate based herbicide and make sure it has a surfactant or sticker additive. For small emergent weed 'stands' a very good product it called Shore-Klear Plus. Plus meaning there is surfactant added to the product. Late summer fall is a very good time to spray the cattails for good systemic action and an effective kill rate. The leaves should turn yellow and then brown in 7-10 days. The dying cattail leaves are easiest to cut and remove before the leaves are completely brown.

Thanks!

You may have to apply a second application in 4 or 5 days if you don't see any signs of yellowing or browning in 4 or 5 days.

Be patient though as systemic control takes longer than non-systemic herbicides.

Also a second app may be necessary after ya see the leaves turning yellow/brown. All the ones I've treated were so thick and tight I usually didn't get complete coverage the first spray.

I've used a Diquat based herbicide along with a sticker with good, fast results too.

FWIW I have been using Aqua Neat this summer around the pond and have not seen a plant it doesn't take out in short order.

I am still trying to figure out the whole "add a surfactant" thing. Shouldn't the product you buy do the job without having to add another product to make it effective? If the manufacturer of a pond herbicide knows their product will not be as effective without it, why the heck not just put it in there in the first place?!!! Last thing I want to do is buy a product and be all ready to spray only to find..not yet, now go buy another one to make it work.

Guys,

Isn't there a product that actually works without having to fortify it with other products?

It depends. Some additives do things like condition the water. For example, adding ammonium sulfate to the water before using a glyphosate product conditions the water so the chemical is not immediately tied up by impurities in the water. If you want glyphosate to fail (Roundup), just mix it up in dirty water. For it to work the very best, use distilled water. So in this case the additive is to condition the water so the product works as advertised.

I'm not sure why surfactants or sticker spreaders can not be incorporated in the product. It may be because it causes an antagonism and the closer to application the less the bad effect. Some chemicals they micro encapsulate to help with the antagonism problem.

Best follow the label if you want it to work. The place that sells the chemical should also have the appropriate supporting products.

Here's a reason why they might not be incorporated.

Cutrine Plus Liquid. OK to ship to states that allow it.
Cutrine Ultra. Not OK to ship. Why? I was told that it's because the surfactant is added to it.

But it's OK to ship a surfactant in it's own container. And it's OK to mix it with Cutrine Plus Liquid, and apply it.

I've given up on trying to figure out the "whys" of some things...........

"Isn't there a product that actually works without having to fortify it with other products?"

I thought I was understandable in my post above of: "....a very good product it's called Shore-Klear-Plus. Plus meaning there is surfactant added to the product." Maybe I should have wrote pre-added to the product.

http://www.aquaticnuisanceplantcontrol.com/ShoreKlear-Plus_Label.pdf

From the label: ""Additional surfactants are not required for this formulation. This Product Alone With Water As Diluent:""

Thanks for the clarification Bill. Good info. I see from Esshup''s post the Cutrine Ultra (if you can get it) is another product that comes "good to go."

But just to be clear, the Cutrine Ultra is for Algae, not cattails.