A controlled burn can improve established grass, especially native grasses that once depended on wildfires to control woody plants naturally. Our area was once covered in native bluestem with nary a tree in sight except for around creeks where the fire would not burn hot enough to control woody plants. Once settlers came in and wildfires stopped, we grew up in timber any place that is not otherwise controlled.

When burning to improve grass, either native or fescue, it is important to burn in late fall/winter when the grass is dormant or early spring before regrowth. If a person lets too much green develop it can actually kill the grass, especially if done repeatedly. The root reserves that create new spring growth will eventually be depleted. It also creates an excessive amount of smoke when a lot of green is burned in with the dry undergrowth.

For controlling the woody portion of the equation (sumac, briers, sprouts etc.), a fire hot enough to destroy a portion of the outer bark is what is needed. Either a very hot fire or a medium fire that burns longer around the brush.

Years ago when I was a kid, back before we owned brush type rotary mowers, it was an annual event for my dad to burn road ditches and sloughs to control briars and sumac from taking over areas we did not want to grow up in trees. Controlled burning is an art mostly lost in our area. Now we mostly mow.

Last edited by snrub; 08/04/15 10:05 AM.

John

I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine