I don't think I would use forced air. You want that to dry nice and slow. Too fast and more cracking will happen. However, check it every few days, and if you notice molding on the surface, then use forced air to stop that, but no more than necessary to keep it from molding. Then in 6 months, go ahead and use some forced air, but if you notice new cracks starting then, do less of it.
Yes, put at least a heavy coat of latex paint on the ends. Wax works better, but it is a pain. There is great commercial products, but as a starter you probably don't want to invest in that yet. Make sure the ends are dry to the touch so the paint won't peel. However, don't wait to long or cracks will start and then it doesn't do much good. Very fine line on this.
Dry straight wood: good level base to stack on... uniform sticks placed above each other.... weight evenly distributed on the stickers, lots of weight!! Some woods have to be cut thicker to allow for warpage, you just can't stop it. Can't say for Pecan, never cut any of that. But my guess is that chances are higher that it will warp more than other types.
In the fall bring it into a heated area. Let sit over the winter, and you should have wood ready to use by spring. You will get it down to 10% inside most heated areas. Wood that has been Kiln Dried will usually come up in moisture content and equalize to its environment.
