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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 29,788 Likes: 1295
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 29,788 Likes: 1295 |
I don't have a disc "yet". I'm looking for one that fits on a 3-point, is 5' wide and doesn't cost it's weight in gold. I have a small Kubota 4wd tractor with a FEL that I'd use the disc on.
The rototiller that I have is 42" wide and is a self-contained unit. It fits on my JD345 garden tractor. The drive belt that would drive the mower deck drives the hydraulic pump on the unit, that drives the tines. It is reversible, the tines can turn both ways by flipping the tiller part end for end. A 5/16" bolt is used as a "shear pin" on the tiller.
I can till new ground. Tree roots are a PITA, a grassy, thick sod is better tilled if it's killed with Glyphosate, then cut as short as the mower will cut, then tilled.
The tiller will go down about 8" at max depth. Over the years I've tilled a lot of acres with it mostly putting in food plots.
But now time is becoming more important, so I really need to find a small disc, cultipacker and 2-3 row planter for the food plots. I'd buy a Plotmaster Hunter 400 if they weren't so darn expensive!!!
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,714 Likes: 3
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,714 Likes: 3 |
I use one of these "middle busters" on my little 4WD tractor for breaking new ground. There are a lot of rocks and roots where I have my garden and where I keep adding food plots. These things do a great job of ripping roots and bring big rocks to the surface. I kind of level the furrows with a 6-foot landscape rack, also pulling up a lot of rocks and roots, and dumping it at the end of a row. I can then push the row of rocks and roots into a pile. I did about a 100' x 150' plot late this summer that I will plant next spring. I haven tilled it. All the rain, snow, and freeze-thaw cycles have pretty much leveled it for me. For one like this, I'll just scratch the surface in the spring with the rake and use a pull-behind spreader to seed it. I'll put out two of my big sprinklers attached to my 2-inch trash pump. They will run about an hour a day until the seeds have sprouted and have established decent roots. I use a generic "wildlife foodplot" mix from the local farmer's co-op. I prepared my main garden in late September using this technique, then planted winter rye cereal. It came up about three to five inches before the cold and snow started. I'll turn it over and till it next spring when the ground is workable.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692 |
I don't have a disc "yet". I'm looking for one that fits on a 3-point, is 5' wide and doesn't cost it's weight in gold. I have a small Kubota 4wd tractor with a FEL that I'd use the disc on.
The rototiller that I have is 42" wide and is a self-contained unit. It fits on my JD345 garden tractor. The drive belt that would drive the mower deck drives the hydraulic pump on the unit, that drives the tines. It is reversible, the tines can turn both ways by flipping the tiller part end for end. A 5/16" bolt is used as a "shear pin" on the tiller.
I can till new ground. Tree roots are a PITA, a grassy, thick sod is better tilled if it's killed with Glyphosate, then cut as short as the mower will cut, then tilled.
The tiller will go down about 8" at max depth. Over the years I've tilled a lot of acres with it mostly putting in food plots.
But now time is becoming more important, so I really need to find a small disc, cultipacker and 2-3 row planter for the food plots. I'd buy a Plotmaster Hunter 400 if they weren't so darn expensive!!! I have a 6' Land Pride HD rig that's only been used a couple of times. I would like to get rid of that and put the money toward a PTO Tiller. It worked good on a food plot that had a bunch of debris in that would kill a tiller. You can set it pretty aggressive and toss some weight on it. My problem with it is it's not garden quality when all is said and done, but for doing a food plot, it would be much quicker than a tiller. Just my experience so far.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,012
Hall of Fame
Junior Member
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Hall of Fame
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,012 |
I've got a 4' disc I pull with a Kubota 3400DL. It takes some time to break new ground but I have to admit I don't take the precaution of killing grass and cutting prior. I use the middle buster like 'Cat then disc. I'm going to try to kill grass and cut prior to ground breaking next time.
1 ac pond LMB, BG, RES, CC
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692 |
A middle buster would come in handy around here. Well, up there. I saw a guy on an AG forum a while back that rigged one up with chunk of steel pipe and a weld on large radius elbow at the bottom attached on the back. He used it for doing underground wiring and water lines. Another guy rigged up a sub-soiler for the same purpose. Me thinks, that sure in the heck beats trenching, if it's deep enough. Yeah Ken, I have an awful lot of roots, and that should do the trick. Thanks for reminding me
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,714 Likes: 3
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent  Lunker
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,714 Likes: 3 |
Two pulls over the same path makes a great trench. Mine uses standard 47 degree cultivator sweeps. Farm equipment suppliers have different size sweeps. Some use 1-3/4 bolt spacing. Others use 2-inch bolt spacing. Anyway, different widths are available. I've used mine for electric runs and PVC pipe runs.
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