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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 45
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 45 |
Thanks again for the ideas. I will let everyone know when I decide.
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,088 Likes: 96
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 6,088 Likes: 96 |
"Much more stable than Cecil's pier that is on pipes into the pond bottom that goes across his pond."
That thing looked wicked scary to me when I looked at the pictures of his drained pond. I'm sure it must be ok, as he obviously uses it. And the fact that it goes all the way across the pond is fabulous.
But if it were me, when the pond was drained, I would have been out there doing some X bracing or some earth anchors and cable in a couple spots in the middle.
But that is just looking at a picture, and it may be way more stable than it looks in the picture. In pictures, some of the suspension bridges that trucks drive across don't look too sturdy so pictures can fool.
John
I subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,725 Likes: 898
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent ![](images/stars.gif) Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent ![](images/stars.gif) Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,725 Likes: 898 |
Your thoughts and concerns are correct. It sways. Not near as much as a floating dock would if it was long and skinny, but a LOT more than my floating "T" shaped dock that is 12' wide at the widest part. You need to pay attention when you're walking on it, especially if you aren't the only one on the pier!
Because of him seining that pond, the "X" bracing would work the best and still allow seining to be done easily.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 202
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 202 |
Our property has an existing 5' wide x 12' long dock. It is basic 2x6 4 stringer frame with 5/4 decking. Steel poles with auger points secure it. We have 3' thick muck bottom so the points will be screwed into the solid earth beneath. I just picked up lumber to add another 5'x12' section plus a 6'x14' added to the end to make an L shape. I ordered my brackets from DH docks in MN. They are a nice interlocking hook design that also ties the corners together. Pipe poles through adjustable brackets. We plan to build the frames and then drag down to the lake and assemble during late ice season. I also ordered one X brace for good measures, but I think that the L shape should help a bunch with sway. http://www.dhdocks.com/lakesideliving/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60
Last edited by Hesperus; 01/22/14 05:29 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,725 Likes: 898
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent ![](images/stars.gif) Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent ![](images/stars.gif) Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,725 Likes: 898 |
It's SO much easier doing it on the ice than on shore and slogging thru the water to do it. Just don't wait too long and have a warm front mess with your plans. Been there, done that and worked in 1+" of water on top of the ice.
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 202
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 202 |
Hardest part now is the wait...
Right now the snow is a knee deep loose, fluffy mess and of course temps are sub zero. Interestingly, the ice is only about 12" thick where we've seen 18"+ on water much further south. I guess the snow is insulating pretty well. I drilled holes and probed for bottom to determine pole length and ended up with water on the ice due to the weight of snow. Now I'll have uneven slush...
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