Small tip if you would like. See attached picture of your hallway. The drywall screws that are right next to the wall you want to take them out. Keep the screw away from the wall about 6 or 8"s. You will get truss lift every season and these areas will have drywall screw pops if your too close to the interior wall. Let the drywall flex that 6-8"s.
Just a thought we see this in new construction all the time with walls that are at a 90 to the truss layout. The hot and cold of the roof system will lift and drop but your walls will not. It is a new home warranty problem in Ontario Canada.
Cheers Don.
Hey Don, Many thanks for the tip. I am all about getting it right, but my real motto is "it ain't right until it's done twice". This is not a motto by design as much as a reactive motto...it's how I roll. Perhaps we have inadvertently mitigated that issue already...? It all goes back to the floor framing. Our 16" I joists supporting the floor span 27'. It is well beyond the L/360 for live load, but when somebody jumps up and down in the middle of the floor, the guy standing next to him can feel it. So...when we constructed those subject walls in the hallway, I custom cut each stud to be a snug, tight fit between the base and top plate. Then, each one is screwed tight at every junction, including the plates into the floor and roof trusses. There are a lot of screws and the entire framing matrix is tied together very well. The result was a super improvement in the hallway...virtually no bounce. I presume that this may now also deliver dividends at the moving junction that you noted. Or not... Either way, perhaps my best plan at this point would be to leave it as is (over-engineered), and use strait-flex at those corners.
Yes if the truss is screwed to the top plate your good. Here the framers never fasten the truss to the top plate. So the trusses can lift on the hallway walls and the drywall screws will pop and even some times the tape line.
Originally Posted By: bottledgt
Any reason you put plastic over your insulation? The few times ive seenn this done, it has resulted in massive sweating and water dripping.....
Plastic should always be on the hot side. If building a cooler the plastic needs to be on the outside of the cooler with insulation to the cold side. There is some areas in the US when you have high humidity and as many hot days as cool days in the year. Plastic is not needs as a vapor barrier and the walls should be left to breath. South Carolina has one of those climates where you should not use any vapor barrier.
![[Linked Image from corvettejunkie.com]](http://www.corvettejunkie.com/pb.gif)
