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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384 |
I currently run a Eco7 powering 3 9inch disc diffusers in the deepest part of my 1 acre tear drop shape pond. I ordered another pump this week because I. Would like to get more water movement in the middle and shallow areas. My qustion is would there be a benafit by tying the 2 pumps together with a manifold or keep the pumps seperate. Not the best with air flow calculations.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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I would think that keeping them separated would be the best option. If one goes weak, the stronger pump will back pressure the weaker one to a degree. I don't think you can do anything with valving because the system is pressurized.
Generally, in multiple pump setup's (multiple sources, same outlet), one is for backup, or you cycle them.
You may be able to hook them up as source and booster, then feed the manifold.
We'll see what someone else has to say about this.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498 |
I would keep them separate, although it will involve more airlines. IMO you are operating too many diffusers with the air volume from that pump at a depth of 7-9ft. Two 9" disk would be max IMO. The more air you put through the membrane the wider the slits become and larger the bubbles. Larger bubbles loose more ligting efficiency than smaller bubbles.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384 |
I have ball valves on each disc so I could eliminate one disc.... Would that not increase the size of bubbles though with more air going into just 2 discs?
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498 |
Shutting off one disk will probably increase the size of bubbles in the other two disks but this significiant and does it exceed the manufacturers optimum rating of the diffuser? I doubt it. Air flow to the diffusers depends mainly on how much air volume is going to each diffuser. I am guessing that each of the 3 diffusers are not operating at peak efficiency due to the depth the pump has to produce air. The air volume decreases as the depth increases - depending mainly on the type or style of pump.. It would be best if the pump company provided a cfm rating plotted per each 1 ft of depth increase. Reputable companies provide that inforamtion. Also diffusers have air flow ratings or cfm ranges where their diffuser is optimally operating. Those are often easy obtained from the disk manufacturer. The goal is to match the cfm rating of the pump to the depth of the diffuser/s. I can't imagine that the Eco7 pump produces enough air at 8 ft deep to exceed the operating efficiency of three membrane disk diffusers. IF it does I am going to start buying the Eco7 pump. Slit length of pores in the diffuser and thickness of the diffuser membrane affect the cfm rating and size of bubbles. Numerous variables to consider.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: May 2009
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I'm a little confused by the description of your setup. Are all three diffusers together in one location and you want to split them up? I'm not an expert but I believe having more diffusers (in one location) will increase the size of the air column and lift velocity, this increases circulation.
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384 |
I have one pump at 7 cfm running three discs in the deepest and widest portion of my 1 acre pond. I have a big problem with chara thisw year due to low water levels this year. I would like to have two disc in the midle and one in the shallow entrance just too keep the water moving at least. That chara when it gets crazy really cuts off water movement. I have been manually removing it , and that helps a lot. I just think having more discs I could controll will make it easy for winter where I could shut off the deep end and use the shallows for keeping ice over. Guess I will use the obe pump for the deep and keep the other one for the shallows. I have really hard water so other then removing the chara by hand not much else seems to work.
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384 |
I have one pump at 7 cfm running three discs in the deepest and widest portion of my 1 acre pond. I have a big problem with chara thisw year due to low water levels this year. I would like to have two disc in the midle and one in the shallow entrance just too keep the water moving at least. That chara when it gets crazy really cuts off water movement. I have been manually removing it , and that helps a lot. I just think having more discs I could controll will make it easy for winter where I could shut off the deep end and use the shallows for keeping ice over. Guess I will use the obe pump for the deep and keep the other one for the shallows. I have really hard water so other then removing the chara by hand not much else seems to work.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498 |
The only thing that I know that "naturally' controls chara are competition from submerged vascular plants (macrophytes), white amur - grass carp, and blue dye. If one considers dye as natural.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 08/11/12 08:05 PM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384 |
I agree with pond dye and have had good success.... just don't like using it. I have 10 gc and they do give it the college effort my water just makes it perfect for chara all of my water comes from storm water run off and lime stone is a dime a dozen around here. I guess put more aeration and be on top of removing chara beds when it gets thick. The more I remove the less nutrient in the pond correct.
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Joined: May 2009
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I heard that removing chara helps propagate it, small pieces that break off can start new colonies. Living chara will take nutrients out of your pond, dead chara will add nutrients to it.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 49
Junior Member
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 49 |
What's a good herbicide for controlling chara? I have lots of it.
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 6,692
Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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Hall of Fame 2015 Lunker
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I know a place that purposely maintains Chara as a Turbidity filter. The water is practically Gin Clear when it hit's the gravity sand filters. I thought to myself, this is just way to easy!
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498 |
Ponds heavily infested with Chara are typically quite clear. No excellent algacides for Chara. Cutrine Plus granular seems to work the best at reducing it especially the ligher, newer, shorter growing infestations. Technically Chara and Nitella are algae and not vascular plants.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 384 |
I think if I keep removing it I have to be removing the nutrients it is using. If. More grows back gota pull it out. I removed about 4 lawn carts full of it and it really did make a difference. Its crazy how white it drys out too. The grass carp seem to like cleaning up the loose bits that break off.
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 49
Junior Member
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 49 |
So what would be a good approach to managing chara? I was manually removing it for awhile but it has gotten away from me and in 100 degree heat I just don't want to anymore. In 3 feet of water its growing all the way to the surface. I was planning on just starting over next spring and try to stay on top of it with a herbicide. But if theres not a real good herbicide for chara and i dont want to manually remove it, what would you suggest? Its a 1/4 acre pond with max depth of 12 feet and steep banks. Its confined to the edges out to 3 foot depth.
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