Pond Boss Forums GENERAL QUESTIONS Water chemistry Water and soil testing

Paul - sent you a pm.

Notes from lab telecon

1. Put in 25-30 tons of lime. For your situation, the better Ag lime to use is lime that has 5-8% Magnesium in it.(That's good for me because it is more accessible in my area.)

2. Try to buy lime that falls somewhere between flour and sand in coarseness.

3. Be prepared to add 12-15 tons of lime again next year and 5-7 tons the year after.

4. Buy a good Total Alkalinity water test.(Already ordered) Test water 7 days after application of lime and then every two weeks thereafter. Keep accurate records and record water temperature as well. If Alkalinity does not continue to track upward, resend water test to lab.

5. Retest pond bottom soil six months and again nine months after first application. These followup tests will determine how much lime to add next year.

6. Begin aeration as soon as possible.Insure you place diffusers so they are easily recoverable in case you need to move them to other locations in the pond to help with circulation of the water column(In the works)

7. "Watershield is your biggest enemy right now. Be prepared to aggressively deal with it when water temps come back to 50 degrees". (working a plan now)

8. Supportive of feeding program. Nothing really new to add to what you guys have helped me with already on my feeding post.

9. Even with feeding program and AFTER watershield treatment, recommended 11-37-0 fertilizer. I mentioned the possibility of the increase in fish excrement from the feeding increasing the phosphorus and their response was "with clarity to 8.5' and phosphorus at 14 PPM", the excrement is not enough to get the food chain going this year.

That's pretty much it. I was very impressed with their support and professionalism, particularly since I am not a local taxpayer.

Comments?

Great info. You can't beat those type people. Write a letter to the guy and thank him. That way he can be sure it gets in his employment file !

Great minds think alike. Have already sent the Director a letter of commendation for the staffer who was so helpful.Just can't do enough of those;and, unfortunately, few people show their appreciation these days.

Definitely some excellent info Paul. Just a matter of finding out the most effective way within cost restraints to get that lime in the right places in the pond.

Quick update:

Will be putting about 25 tons into the pond week after next. Was wondering if I should be concerned about any of the other 'very low' elements from my water sample report. I don't know what SAR is on the report but if I need to make any other element adjustments for say, sulphur or one of the other elements, I think now may be the easiest and best time to put them in.

Once again, thanks to all for your input.

Warmest Regards,
Paul

The high Sulphur level is likely the result of years of organic accumulation on the pond bottom. It's the result of anaerobic bacterial action and normally won't cause a problem unless the bottom sediment is disturbed. When you detect a 'rotten egg' odor, it is time for remedial action, which is dredging the pond.