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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 47
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 47 |
Hello, I am a fireman for the city of indianapolis, and a part time gunsmith. My wifes a school teacher. we are looking at some property that looks like it has all the properties needed for a pond but i have a few questions that ill ask here, but later will probably duplicate them in the appropriate forum.
1rst, the excavator (more than 100 ponds experience) said someting funny when i asked about packing the clay and how he would do it. he said something about indiana having a really high water table. does this mean he wont pack the clay? is a high water table and a high clay content enough to hold the water in?
2. i am thinking about stocking some sort of forage fish, then HBG and small mouth bass. the pond will be around 10 feet deep at the deepest and around 3/4 of an acre. my goal is GREAT quantity of catching fish, size is a consideration, but not of huge importance. catching 5 1 pound bass on a 6'6" ultralight is more fun than catching 1 5 pound bass. would also like a good enough panfish fishery that we can catch as many as we would like whenever we would like (size would be great but anything big enough to be worth eating is ok as well if the fishing quantity is worth the loss of size.
3. how do i put together my plan for this pond (if we get the property)
4. feeding. not opposed to it, and read a TON about it on this board, but never see a mention of cost.
5. cost of stocking? not sure if its a fixed number but a ballpark would be nice
6. aeration. not apposed to putting in a fountain on a timer to run for a couple of hours a day but whats the cost/benifit of this?
7 structure when do i put it in?
8. dock construction. i want to do it before the pond fills so if you got any links to threads on here that would be great.
9. anything else you guys think i am missing.
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 754 Likes: 1
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 754 Likes: 1 |
Welcome Indy! I'm a rookie to all things pond but I think I can answer a few of your questions. 1. I don't know 2. Once the pond fills, stock plenty of forage for your area, as one of the pondmeisters will say, you want to be able to walk across the pond without getting your feet wet, then stock your predator fish 3. Depends on your goals and it looks like you have them so I'll let another member answer that 4. Feeding increases growth but can add nutrients you may not want depending on water quality 5. Depends on your suppler-I stocked a 1 1/2 acre for about $300 6. I know nothing about it 7. I'd put it in right after the pond is dug and before it fills 8. There are plenty of threads on the main page that will get you going in the right direction 9. get ready, it's a long road but a fun one!
Again, welcome and have a good time.
It's true hard work never killed anybody, but I figure, why take the chance? Ronald Reagan _______________ The good Brian
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,001 Likes: 1498 |
Also welcome. Is the property N, S, E, or W of Indy? American Pond and Lake Mgmt is up near Kokomo, Russiaville. 1. A 0.75ac water table pond and without a clay liner even with a high water table is risky business IMO, and I would never have it even if it cost $4-5K less. One reason water level will decrease significantly in dought conditions. Another: Water in a water table pond is susceptable to receiving contaminated ground water; IMO not good in today's philosophy of indiscriminate illegal dumping of chemicals. Shop around and contact SWCS or NRCS for list of regional pond building contractors. This is an investment. treat it like one. Do homework and due diligence. Ask which contractors build the most ponds. Interview and visit references. Pondowners LOVE talking about their ponds! You dig a hole, but BUILD a pond. Compacting the clay liner of a dug pond is imperative. Thicknes of the lifts and proper moisture for each compaction effort is very important to success. It is absolutely 'crap' to have a finished pond leak and continue to leak. Try to avoid it at all costs.
2. Maximum depth at one end of 12' to 15" of 0.75ac is better and will not cost much more since it comprises a small area (volume) in the ponds's belly. Clay from that zone will be valuable in creating the clay liner! A fishery of HBG and SMB is a distinct possibility. I have seen it work okay also even with a few HSB and or yellow perch. Keep the rooted weeds to a minimum. Fishery will perform much better if they are fed at least 2-4 times per week Aquamax blue bag high protein carnivore diet. 3. Develop your plan after reading "Perfecdt Pond Want One" available on this website. Very good reading for the money. Subscribe to Pond Boss Magazine to stay up to date and current on fishery pond science.
4. A 'small' feeding program for your pond could amount to 70 - 130 lbs of Purina Aquamax per year - $50-90/yr. Relativly few dollars compared to what great value, entertainment, fish size and better quality that you will get for those few dollars. By all means do not use fish food similar to general catfish foods sold at such places as 'farm supply stores'. Better food results in less manure waste and grows bigger and better fish! Great value for the few extra dollars per bag.
5. Cost of stocking. Minimal, compared to price of building the pond. The fishery will determine the enjoyment of the pond - priceless. This can vary widely depending on size and numbers of fish stocked. Similar to landscaping with small or large trees. You buy time using larger and more fish. DIY stocking where you travel (day trip) to get the fish from the hatchery. They often bag and box fish for your return trip home. Lower cost is stocking a few forage fish (FHM-shiner, crayfish), allowing a spring-summer or yr to spawn ($25-$40). Then add minimal numbers and small sizes of fingerlings of sport fish (HBG100, YP50, SMB30, HSB12 = IMO$180). Ask for details.
6. Don't use a fountain. It wastes your money; unless money is no object. Economical route involves DIY bottom diffused aerator; collecting your own parts, assembling, and installing.
7. Bottom structure is IMO not really needed in a 0.75 ac pond to concentrate the fish. IMO keep the pond bottom belly open for reducing snags and moving diffuers. Larger rock / broken concrete pieces can be very useful as shore-line riprap, reducing erosion from wind-wave action while providing some refuge / spawning areas for minnows-crayfish. How far can fish go to hide from anglers in a 0.75 ac pond? If you feed pellets that will concentrate them during feeding. Broken Concrete is often available FREE from municipalities and contractors. IMO you can't have too much as lining the shore line and down to 3ft to some places 8-12ft deep. Start laying structure or concrete as soon as pond is completed. Contractor can assist in positioning largest concrete pieces before he leaves the site.
8. Start dock before contractor leaves. He can help create footers, position & set dock posts. Contractor can prepare special areas in pond bottom / clay liner for dock posts if he knows where you want the dock. Digging in bases for dock posts can at times compromise (puncture) the clay liner resulting in leaks.
9. Lots to know and plan for in building, stocking and managing a pond. I am still learning after 47 yrs living with and managing ponds. Keep reading old topics and asking questions.
Last edited by Bill Cody; 04/19/11 08:41 PM.
aka Pond Doctor & Dr. Perca Read Pond Boss Magazine - America's Journal of Pond Management
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