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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 20
Lunker
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OP
Lunker
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 20 |
Coontail is taking over. Is it too late in the year to apply chemical treatment? Water temp 80 at least. Need help fast before it takes over completely. Thanks.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 82
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 82 |
If you want to cut it and remove it, the Lake Mower company is down here in TX (San Marcos). Ask for Annamarie (the owner).
If at first you don't succeed...look in the trash for the directions.
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 82
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 82 |
Also you can ask Pond Frog on here, he's loaded with info since he's been in the business a long time.
If at first you don't succeed...look in the trash for the directions.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 914
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 914 |
I'm fighting the coontail fight now. It's never too late, however the best time to nail it with herbicides is Spring emergent. Now you have to increase dosage and worry about dead material taking up all the O2. Sometimes the live stuff does that anyway as the pond I am working had a bad die off of LMB. But I am looking at 80%+.
My customer says no to herbicides so I am hand pulling, putting in hybrid carp and mowing with the Lake Mower and raking with the Lake Rake. I prefer to get that material out and let the carp start to get on top of it. Worst infestation I have seen, top to bottom, a couple of free holes in the entire pond. Gone over 10 years no treatment. When I am at low water in the fall I'm hitting it hard mechanically.
What Coontail and it's buddy Eurasian Milfoil do if left unchecked is crowd out evey other species. Then when they go through thier die off cycle they cause internal nutrient loading. Especially Nitrogen and Phosphorous. That then feeds the problem even more and gets algae everywhere too. Pretty soon O2 get sucked up and fish start floating. Even if you herbicide it that boimass dies, sinks and releases the nutrients. And it is almost impossible to totally eradicate it. The coontail free floats, has no roots and will make very dense mats on the surface. Milfoil will also mat up, and both can propagate by fragmentation. Good luck, but I'd look at combined control methods, not just herbicide alone.
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 84
Lunker
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Lunker
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 84 |
I just finished treating my pond with 2,4-D (at 2ppm rate) for Eur Mil. I got what looks like a complete kill, but time will tell to see if it re-establishes. Took about 5 weeks total treating half the pond, waiting 2 weeks and treated the rest. No fish kill as of yet, but we did see an increase in FA, but I also have what appears to be my first phytoplankton bloom. Keeping an eye on it for O2 level as recommended by Pond Frog. That boy knows his business well>>>>>pay attention to what he tells ya! My LMB are really happy campers now! Good luck to you!
A dozen worms $2.00 Buying your grandson a new pole $25.00 The look on your grandson's face when he catches his first fish PRICELESS!
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,676 Likes: 888
Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
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Moderator Ambassador Field Correspondent Lunker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 28,676 Likes: 888 |
If the 2-4-D doesn't work, Diquat will!
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
Fingerling
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Fingerling
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1 |
picked up my reward herbacide today but there is one problem. how do you mix it with water in a 2 gallon sprayer? how much Reward to how much water> said to use 2 oz. of cide kick 2 but nothing about how to mix the reward for small jobs. HELP
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