With the right filter setup and pump. A typical starter RAS would handle 1/2 lb/gallon at 2%/body weight feed per day. You can however over feed and cause some major problems. That is why it is always nice to have a separate "Emergency Drain" for such occasions. The big boy's with the "Just Keep-em-Wet" systems can easily do 2lb+ per gallon.
If one wanted to raise or hold baitfish on the cheap. A bio-wheel filter or two would do the trick. The old 330's could easily handle 30 dozen or so 2.5-3" shiners in less than 15 gallons with minimal water changes. The new ones would probably do more.
JohnK:
What is the surface area of your bio-balls, just for one? I can crunch some numbers and give you a good idea on what you can raise.
A couple of suggestions: (as mentioned by others)
- Get a test kit and monitor
- Do some water changes on a regular basis as required. You may have to drain the system several times.
- Zeolite is a friend in early startup if stocking fish, so get enough. It can be reused later.
- Bio Bug inoculations are not always successful. Shelf life and storage before you get it are the main factors. There is a place in Maryland you can get fresh bug's from, but not on the cheap.
- If you want to. I would like to see your solids filter separated from your bio-filter. Reason is, in a recycle system it is imperative to remove solids very effectively, and on a regular basis. If not, you will never be able to control the Nitrogen Cycle. You will be culturing unwanted bacteria, like Heterotrophic and a high number of anaerobic bacteria. You want a healthy colony of aerobic bacteria. Otherwise, it will really stink while producing Hydrogen Sulfide and Methane, to name a few. Also, put your bio-balls in mesh bags. That way you can take them out and shake off the slough. (stagnant slimy stuff) Otherwise, the not so good bacteria will take over, killing the filter you really want.
- If you do decide to have separate filters. At least place an air stone in your submerged bio-filter. The good bug's need oxygen, plus this will help degass the system of CO2. You need to remove CO2 for your water to accept Oxygen. Water is a natural sink for CO2.
- Need a bigger pump in the future.
- Take it a step at a time
The list is quite exhaustive, beyond this post, and I hope I did not make your head hurt. But, with the other forum members suggestions and help, you are going to have a cool system.
