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#158838 04/15/09 10:34 AM
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Does anyone know of a way to retrofit my residential well, to avoid the cost of digging another one, to accommodate keeping a three acre pond at full pool? For example, can I T off before the bowl to bypass the pressure issues related with running a pump for long periods? I am more than likely going to need to do something in the area of supplementing due to a lack of runoff. Any advice, knowledge, experience, help or direction would be helpful.

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How many GPM is your well or pump rated for? You will need at least 14 gpm for the entire day to keep the pond full.

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 Originally Posted By: Chris Steelman
How many GPM is your well or pump rated for?

Make that "pump AND well" - how much can the pump deliver, and how much will come out of the well.

Our two deep wells have pumps that will deliver 11-12 GPM. But they will run out of water after an hour or 15 minutes, respectively.


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Submersible or shallow well? What's the condition of the well screen?

When I had the well dug 2 years ago, it was put in with the future thought of a geothermal "open" heat system that dumped into the pond. I also figured that I'd want to use the well for irrigation at some point in time, so the well driller sunk a 4" submersible well, BUT he put 2 screens together just in case I wanted to install a larger pump at a later date. It's a 3/4hp 220v motor now, and it pumps 28 gpm. They tested the well, and the soil/water carrying capacity will support 100 gpm if I upgrade the pump.

That Fall, I wanted to see how it would work, so when I went on my annual deer hunting trip to Northern Wi. I let the pump run 24/7. I rigged up a 1 1/2 pvc pipe to 4" pvc pipe adapter and let'r rip for the 7 days that I was gone. My neighbor checked on the place once a day and noted the progress. It came up a bunch in that week, but the downfall to plumbing it the way that I did left 0 water pressure in the house. That wasn't a big deal because I wasn't home, but I need to figure out something else if I ever need to do that again. I think the pond came up 3' in that time, and it would have been much greater if there wasn't sandy soil surrounding it.

The pump pushed the water to the pond before it hit the bladder tank, and I DID see an increase in my electric bill that month!


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esshup #158893 04/15/09 05:50 PM
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Okay, for starters, I have no idea how many GPM my pump/well is rated for now. From what I remember, it is somewhere around 200-250' deep, but the water table here is really shallow. My neighbor has lived here forever and offered to "witch it", but for aesthetic reasons, I put it where I wanted it. While he was cleaning out a pond on his farm across the street last summer, he hit water at 20' and swears that the old home place well that waters his cows about 100' away from his newly renovated pond, is only 20' deep. That being said, I need something I can run once full, about three months a year to maintain level. I'm sure it will run for a while at first to get to full pool. The power bill will just have to take a backseat, for the moment, I have to protect my $22,000 pond investment! I still need good flow to the house though. I have options, within a reasonable amount distance (to access the power disconnect), I own thirty acres, but my pond and power are on the front ten.

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The GPM and the continuous capability/capacity of your well are equally important.

Think about it. One inch of water over three acres is 81,000 gallons. A foot is just shy of a million gallons. Figure out what your well can produce and go from there.


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Take a 100 gallon stock tank and see how it takes to fill it and then do the math. That is how I found mine per advice here on the forum. Of course if you have a bigger tank that might give a better average.

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 Originally Posted By: P. Buckley
Take a 100 gallon stock tank and see how it takes to fill it and then do the math. That is how I found mine per advice here on the forum. Of course if you have a bigger tank that might give a better average.


That's a good way. When you do that, try and use a hose as short and as large in dia. that you can. You'll get a more accurate well and pump capability measurement that way. (less restriction in a larger, shorter hose)


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esshup #158988 04/16/09 01:54 AM
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 Originally Posted By: esshup
Submersible or shallow well? What's the condition of the well screen?

When I had the well dug 2 years ago, it was put in with the future thought of a geothermal "open" heat system that dumped into the pond. I also figured that I'd want to use the well for irrigation at some point in time, so the well driller sunk a 4" submersible well, BUT he put 2 screens together just in case I wanted to install a larger pump at a later date. It's a 3/4hp 220v motor now, and it pumps 28 gpm. They tested the well, and the soil/water carrying capacity will support 100 gpm if I upgrade the pump.

That Fall, I wanted to see how it would work, so when I went on my annual deer hunting trip to Northern Wi. I let the pump run 24/7. I rigged up a 1 1/2 pvc pipe to 4" pvc pipe adapter and let'r rip for the 7 days that I was gone. My neighbor checked on the place once a day and noted the progress. It came up a bunch in that week, but the downfall to plumbing it the way that I did left 0 water pressure in the house. That wasn't a big deal because I wasn't home, but I need to figure out something else if I ever need to do that again. I think the pond came up 3' in that time, and it would have been much greater if there wasn't sandy soil surrounding it.

The pump pushed the water to the pond before it hit the bladder tank, and I DID see an increase in my electric bill that month!


I did a similar setup for my pond, but my well has a pretty low recovery rate at 15gpm. I installed a simple ball valve to keep water pressure at 45psi for the travel trailer we use there and it kept the switch from shutting off the well. I was worried at first if the pump would perhaps begin to "dry run" from the low recovery so I adjusted the low-pressure side of the switch to not kick on and it would just shut the pump off when/if the pressure dropped below 40psi---it never dropped. With 1.5 surface acres and only 15gpm, I would have accomplished more wizzing on a forest fire. 3 month-24/7 run was an extra $300 in electric cost



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You may want to check with this company.
http://www.grundfos.com/Web/HomeUs.nsf/Webopslag/PAVA-52WKZT




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 Originally Posted By: P. Buckley
Take a 100 gallon stock tank and see how it takes to fill it and then do the math. That is how I found mine per advice here on the forum. Of course if you have a bigger tank that might give a better average.


Or a second hand and 5 G bucket....


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I can't do the 5 gallon bucket thingie. The water comes out of the hose so hard that it shoots right up out of the bucket! Heck, out of a 50' 3/4" hose I can shoot water a good 30' without a nozzle on the hose! (40-60 pressure switch I believe......) \:D

Last edited by esshup; 04/16/09 09:35 PM.

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esshup #159128 04/16/09 09:56 PM
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Okay then...guess the 100G is the way to go...if you have one handy.


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