Pond Boss Forums POND CONSTRUCTION Creating habitat Dock supports

A few questions on docs, I was looking at a floating dock sstem but found the prices crazy high so decided to do a permanent wood dock and had a few questions about the vertical uprights to use as supports. first question, I assume i could use a 4x4 pressure treated post buried down about 18 inches with concrete to support the dock but wondered if there are better materials to use that might hold up longer and be easier to replace/fix/repair if and when the time comes. Any ideas? I was thinking of burrying into concrete some small I beams ( vertically) and then attaching cross beams to them , is this out of line, too much , rust may become an issue?

Any thoughts here, Im looking at a 4 x 8 or so and would need to support about 600 lbs or so , max.

Since pond is still filling up, Im not real sure where the natural normal water line will be, no feeder, just some small drainage area to fill it up so it will be higher in the spring and lower in the heat of summer so I wanted to be able to adjust the height of the dock on these supports if need be, start high and lower as needed since wife will be swimming off of it and using a ladder to get in and out.

Any help here would be great, pond has 7 feet of water in it now so I need to get on this pretty quick, ( the last 5 feet came in the last 8 weeks)
Salmonid

Hey Mark B...
Check out this oldie: Using Footers or Sinking Posts thread
-
and this one: Building a Pier thread
-
and my favorite, (you probably already saw): Launch and Dock Construction thread
-
and this outfit, too: Tommy Docks
-
Also, in my neck of the woods, Menards is a very popular home center. They actually stock alot of the fittings for docks supports in some of their larger stores. They also have a deal with a manufacturer for custom docks (both floating and bottom-supported)

Mark,

I built an 8x16' floating deck from 2x12 and 2x6 PT lumber for ~$400. I used blue poly 55gal drums that I got free, but they hardly show. I wonder if the ice up in Dayton (my old home town) would demolish a floating deck or a stationary deck faster?

Let me know if you would like some building instructions. They're very simple, and we absolutely love our little deck.

Mark:
It sounds to me like a floating dock is what you want. I don't think the cost should be any higher. The corner "posts" are needed only to keep the dock from floating away. As mentioned, Menards has some auger type, galvanized post assemblies you could use. I just drove ten foot sections of 1 1/2 inch galvanized pipe at each of the four corners of the dock. I purchased 2 inch diameter round metal "rings" from the hardware store which are intended, I think, to tie up a horse to. I threaded the pipe through two of these stacked about 6 inches apart at each corner of the dock. This allows the dock to raise or lower with the water level. For good measure, I grease the pipes near the rings every now and then. You can just drive the pipe into the bottom of the pond using a post driver. Unless your pond is of a size that you have tremendous wave action, they should stay put.

Mark, I did the same as Bobad and Schroeder. Barrels can be purchased from a coke cola plant or your local farm store or coop. They run about 6 bucks each around these parts. I also drove 1 1/2 galvanized pipe which is electrical conduit at your local lowes or home depot. I think 2 on the front corners will do for a 4 x 8 deck. Mine was 10 x 10 with a 16 ft walkout. You can buy U straps 2 inch and lag bolt them around the pipe. The pipe will slide up and down in the u bolt straps no problem. The straps are also found in the electrical dept with the conduits. Also in my case the pond was full when we built the dock. I simply framed the dock and tied the barrels to it with rope (light weight) and launched it. We then decked it starting at the board walk and worked outward while it was floating. we then bolted the U straps to the side slid in the pipe and drove it into the bottom. The pipes make a great fishing rod holder also. Good luck with your project.

I want to build a 4'x25' dock that sticks out into the middle of my pond, and need it to be cheep. I was wondering why you cant just use 6x6's for the supports cut to the right length and allowed to rest on the ground? also i can not do any welding so i need a solution that takes that in to account.

I have built several docks using 6x6's placed on the bottom of the lake and it has always worked fine. I always screw a 5 gallon bucket to the bottom of the 6x6 and add pieces of bricks or rocks to the bucket so that the bottom end of the 6x6 won't float. The bucket also gives you something to hold onto if you need to move the 6x6 around in the lake. I have also used 4x6's and they worked as well and are obviously cheaper. Make sure that you provided cross supports for the 6x6's to stabilize them and use some additional support for any long spans in your dock.

Hi bobad
How many drums did you need for that size deck?

Thanks that sounds like a good idea with the buckets and i was thinking of using two cross supports diagonally to each other. if i use 2x10 from post to post how far can o span?

On my new pond, I will be using 4 treated yellow pine 2'x10's to span 20 feet. Planned load is 8' treated 2'x6' deck boards and small quantities of people.

In my hay mows, 4 12' yellow pine 2'x10's hold up about 9600 lbs of hay per section.

Cool thanks. I am going to use four posts then and do spans of about 15 feet because the longest available lumber i have is 16 feet. Thanks for the Info ill post pics when i am done. Plus any one with any questions on tree houses i am the man to ask. I know this site is about ponds but i have a tree house next to my pond.

I typically use 12 foot 2x6's. I also use the cheap landscape timbers to provide additional support (2 for each 12 foot span). I will usually nail a piece of scrap pressure treated lumber to the bottom of the landscape timber to add a foot to spread the weight. I also deck the pier with 12 foot 2x6's cut to 4 foot sections. A 4 foot wide pier is plenty unless you have other plans. I also split the two 12 foot joisted with a 2x4 joist to provide center stability. That keeps the deck boards from sagging. I hope this helps. By the way, you can work effectively in water up to your arm pits. Any deeper and it is very difficult.

Shaunj77...

If you aren't planning on a massive amount of weight, you can span 15 ft with a 2X10 or 2X8. I would go 2X10 and just spend an extra $100 for safety. You should be able to go 24 inches o.c. with your joist spacing. In residential construction, it would be below code.

11 foot grade 2 rail road ties. Auger 3 feet, push in every 11 feet. Tamp, hard. Use same type rail road ties as horizontal, use 8 inch landscape screws to hold together. Use whatever you wish for the deck. Fish love it! everyone is jealous at how cheap, and how it does NOT wiggle/sway.

Great idea IndianPaintbrush. That would be great for a pier that will give you the "rustic look". I tried to check out your website, but it said it wasn't found. Do you have it up and running?

Can you get rail road ties that do not have the black tar on it?

otto

I checked them as I pulled them. If sticky, they stayed on the pallet at the hardware store. Remember, these are USED type 2s. probably at least 15 years old and the tar is likely where ever they were pulled from

On another topic, I was out picking blackberries just 9 miles north of you (Sadler)and while doing some costly cruising drove by your office. This reminded me that I need to call you for a consult on that dam that Mr. Hale pushed the dirt around and leaks enough for 10 acres of cat tails.(there were no cat tails before. I am in the next county over (Fannin). What is the best number to call?

I was in Bonham this morning visiting Todd Klement at noon in Paris with Chris Steelman, so any time will be fine call Sheri at 800 882 3478(dirt)

Otto

there is a place in Bowie and Tolar texas that sale cut lumber from telephone poles. You can get an 8x8 up to 28 foot long. same as a rail road tie but soomth and looks like red cedar when freshly cut. http://www.sticesawmill.net/

The tarlike stuff is creosote, which is the preservative for the wood. It is much better than pressure treated wood.

Cool thank you to every one for all the help ill let you know how the finished product comes out.

Here is a pic of our deck. It is constructed from railroad ties. It has 2x6 treated floor joist 16" OC and 8 ft span between the horzontial ties. I also use the treated lumber as diagional supports and to bolt the horzontal ties to the vertical ties. I should have used galv metal angel as bracing instead but took the easy way out. Good luck with your project.

The dock looks great.

It also looks solid, the more I learn about rail road ties the more I like them.

OTTo