Originally posted by Rowly:
Steve22:
From the research I've done....this is how I'm going to build my floating cage. I will be using either 1/4 " or 1/2" plastic netting from a roll that measures 49" W x50'L @ approx $1.55 ft for 1/4' mesh. In making the cage I will use 8- 3 way corner fittings and 4- 8' L of PVC pipe for the frame length and 7- 4' lengths for the width and depth of the cage and cross top piece for the top. Resulting in a 8' L x 4'W x 4' Deep cage. Use plastic electrical ties to attach the plastic netting to the sides and bottom/top of the 1 1/2" diameter PVC piping. I'm not sure if this sealed frame will float...but I may have to add some rigid insulation or something else to help it float a little above the surface water of my lake. Any possible suggestion on floating this cage is very welcome. Lastly, 2/3 of the top will be secured to the frame with the last 1/3 of the top hinged to open for feeding and fish removal. I will also, secure a floating feeding ring inside the cage to help keep the floating pellets in a defined area and easy monitoring of food intake. The hinged top will use 2 - "T" fitting and 4 elbows to frame the hinged lid. I hope this is of some help. Has anyone else built a cage similar to this and is it working good....regards
Rowly
I use the 3/4 inch size of the same plastic and it works well with 5 to 7 inch bass with no problems with escape. Go with as large of openings as you can to promote circulation
My cages are built as a cube with 1 1/2 inch PVC and three way connectors. I don't glue my connections I use duck tape on them. I make either a 7 foot by 7 foot by 4 feet deep or a 10 foot by 10 foot by 4 feet deep.
I acutally drill holes in my PVC frame to allow it to fill with water and get it to sink evenly. Then I tie on orange juice jugs, mineral sprits jugs, or detergent jugs on each side to float the cage at the depth I want. I use these because they are solid colors and last longer in the water. I think I could get away with only one jug per side but I use two per side. The handles make very handle places to run the electrical ties through and in the mesh of the cage.
I don't use a feeding ring as the way I see it if the fish don't eat it right away something is wrong or you are throwing too much in. If some of it floats out of the cage I have other fish outside of the cage that will eat it.
To keep herons out I stretch netting over a frame made with 1 X 2's joined by bolts and nuts in the corners, and fastened to the 1 by 2's with electrical ties. I just lay this on top of the cage and fasten one in each corner to thecage with electrical ties. The mesh is big enough that it allows the feed to go through the mesh and is high enough off the water the fish stay out of it.
For shade I cut a square of brown plastic tarp about 7 feet by 2 feet and attache it the top and one corner of the mesh cover. The fish are less stressed if they can go under this tarp during the day.
I have my cages attached to my pier and also run diffusers off the bottom between each pair to promote circulation. Additionally I take the covers off once a week and brush the algae build up off of both the INSIDE and OUTSIDE of the cage rotating the cage as I go. I do this with a push broom with an extended alluminum handle. My cages get clogged with algae very rapidly due to the fertility of the water. I don't want to take any chances with stagnation and oxygen depletion in the cages.
