Al I let the pond tell me if it is needed up to spawning temp (68 F). If the water gets to the high 60's and no color change (to slight greening)occurs then I start the process. I used to start as per the publications by the time the water temp stabilized at 60 F but that would often result in no bloom for a while (until water got to about 68) and then it would go wild and visibilities would drop to 12in or less. To much risk there for me so over time I adapted to this method and it has worked great for me. Data indicates to me that mother nature's way is there for a reason on this topic. Fish spawning temps have evolved so that the yoy hatch is timed for max advantage - just when the right food is there for the yoy. LMB spawn in time for their yoy to eat new BG yoy (a couple weeks before the BG) and the first BG spawn in time for their yoy to eat the just starting plankton bloom and new inverts etc that spring produces.

Here is the standard answer below. One of the reasons they use (shade out early FA) is not applicable to me as we don't have that problem.

When To Apply Fertilizer

Begin fertilization in late winter

or early spring, but definitely by

the time water temperatures have

stabilized at 60 �F or higher. Usually

this temperature occurs

around March 15 in south Mississippi

and April 1 in central and

north Mississippi. Early fertilization

will shade the pond bottom

and help control filamentous

algae, a common problem in Mississippi

ponds in spring.

Make the first three applications

of fertilizer two weeks

apart; then apply whenever you

can see your hand clearly with

your arm under water at elbow

depth. By fertilizing only when

water is clear at18 to 24 inches,

you will fertilize the pond at approximate

3- to 5-week intervals

from spring through September.