Pond Boss Forums INTRO Questions & Observations Bottom water release pipe?

The flow from my new 3/4 acre pond exits thru a 10 inch pvc standpipe. The standpipe is in approx 7 feet of water with an area of 12 foot depths close by. Average pond depth is around 8 feet. I would like to add a sleeve over the standpipe to release bottom water.

1. Will it be beneficial to release water from 6 to 7 foot depths when there are deeper areas in the pond?

2. What would be the easiest thing to use for a sleeve? I was thinking of the large black plastic pipe. Not sure what size to use.

3. How to attach the sleve to the existing standpipe? Hangers of some sort, with a cement block tied to the bottom for weight?
Any thoughts or experiences appreciated. Thanks, Coach B

Coach B..here's some answers.
1. Yes, it will. Most ponds stratify at four to five feet each summer. Releasing water below the thermocline is beneficial.
2. Use a bigger pipe. You probably need 14" or larger.
3. I attach the sleave by drilling holes across the pipe, six inches from the "top" of the sleave, then running a piece of all-thread through the holes, providing a "bar" all the way across it. Then, I drill a second set of holes perpendicular to the first, and run a second piece of all thread, so they look like an 'x'. Secure the all-thread with nuts. Then, gently drop the sleave over your pipe. Works well, and is easy.

Bob,

This is an interesting idea. I have a similar set up on my pond as Coach does. My standpipe is 8" diameter. I have a very high flow rate, especially this time of year. I calculate it to be about 250G/min at the present. I see the concept and it makes sense. I am concerned that increasing the height of the standby by 6" may be too much. I presume if the diameter of the sleeve pipe is not great enough to carry the flow, the water will rise over the sleeve, correct. Is there a formula that could be used to find out exactly what size pipe would be needed?

Bob, since this subject is started, sorry coach going to change the question format Could this bottom draw technique be applied to an existing, conventional tin culvert?

Thanks, FH