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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
C
C Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 33
I am cutting some 2x4, 2x6 and 2x10 boards to put in our flash board system. I need to know what to add to be able to hook a T bar or crow bar to them to place them in it and remove them. any ideas?
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Last edited by c.j.; 09/20/17 01:32 PM.
Joined: Jun 2016
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Joined: Jun 2016
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I'm not familiar with flash board installs, but could you drill a shallow blind hole (or two) in the boards that would allow a piece of all-thread to be screwed into it, install it, and then unscrew the all-thread hence removing your installation tool? Just bouncing the idea off of you. If you needed it to be long lasting for future removal, maybe a stainless steel nut like this from McMasterCarr...

https://www.mcmaster.com/#98007a033/=19h9khq

could be recessed and screwed to the boards using the holes in the mount plate.


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Noel
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R
Fingerling
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Stainless steel hooks on both ends such as this?

https://www.grainger.com/product/MONROE-PMP-Screw-Mount-Utility-Hook-1-4HDW4 (these aren't stainless but you get the idea.

we have several agridrain risers that the plastic stoplogs have a similar hook to pull them up.

or perhaps screw in a lag bolt and leave an inch protrude to hook onto.

Last edited by Redonthehead; 09/21/17 08:05 PM.

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C
Lunker
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For our "boxes" or flashboard risers we use 2x6 tongue and groove boards. We build our boxes with a channel for the boards to slide down. You simply drop them in. We fab a hook from rebar that is similar to a hay hook.

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Using a hay hook, you probably could use a forster bit to drill a hole part way into the board to give you a place to hook the point of the hook on.

Maybe one "hole" on each end of the board instead of one in the middle?


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Our hook is hammered flat kind of like a flat head screwdriver. With the correct angle it has no issue pulling boards. It even works on our 150" long spillway boards.


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